Clutch Dragging?
#21
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Hmm, it looks like mine. I have about 3k on this one.
Thinking out loud here, does anyone think it could be a warped or swollen clutch disc or defective pressure plate that is doing this? When I first installed the clutch the pedal was as soft as a stock clutch, and I noticed not long before this problem started that the pedal was stiffer. I guess it could be all in my mind though.
Thinking out loud here, does anyone think it could be a warped or swollen clutch disc or defective pressure plate that is doing this? When I first installed the clutch the pedal was as soft as a stock clutch, and I noticed not long before this problem started that the pedal was stiffer. I guess it could be all in my mind though.
#22
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The SAC Springs appear to be even but that doesn't mean that the plate isn't miss-adjusted. Do you still have the transmission off? If so, pull the clutch and flywheel and then bolt them together and use a press to actuate them. The clutch should actuate within about 3/8" of diaphragm compression. If this doesn happen then the plate isn;t releasing. You can reset the SAC-springs by using a flat-head screw-driver to compress the springs (by way of the tab that restricts their adjustment) to their default position. Then when the clutch is actuated again the plate should readjust. I know this sounds like a lot of work...but it is the only way to really check the parts for proper function. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
#23
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UCA I understand where you are coming from but a warped plate or disc or a swlling disc would affect every gear change which makes this pretty unlikely since the primary issue is qith 1st alone.
#25
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I mean... that pressure plate looks fine to me? I mean how would one know the diff? I'm sick of shelling out money for stuff that doesn't fix it... woohoo!
#28
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The SAC Springs appear to be even but that doesn't mean that the plate isn't miss-adjusted. Do you still have the transmission off? If so, pull the clutch and flywheel and then bolt them together and use a press to actuate them. The clutch should actuate within about 3/8" of diaphragm compression. If this doesn happen then the plate isn;t releasing. You can reset the SAC-springs by using a flat-head screw-driver to compress the springs (by way of the tab that restricts their adjustment) to their default position. Then when the clutch is actuated again the plate should readjust. I know this sounds like a lot of work...but it is the only way to really check the parts for proper function. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
#29
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I really need the light pedal of the LS7 clutch in this car for daily driving in heavy city traffic, anyway.
#30
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You can test the unit on a press...but the kit needs to be rest before installing it again because it needs to adjust in the car.
Our new 12" Super-Single kits have very light effort when compared to the older 11" units. These kits provide higher capacity to boot! There is no real down side. So pedal effort doesn't have to be increased dramatically when moving away from the SAC unit.
Either way let me know if you have any further questions or if you need to place an order. Thanks!
Our new 12" Super-Single kits have very light effort when compared to the older 11" units. These kits provide higher capacity to boot! There is no real down side. So pedal effort doesn't have to be increased dramatically when moving away from the SAC unit.
Either way let me know if you have any further questions or if you need to place an order. Thanks!
#31
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Hey man I got mine fixed
Take it all apart
clean it up
assemble on ground (torque to spec not over or under)
bench press check for disengagement. (doesn't take much)
(if it disengages properly on a bench press then the clutch is fine)
If clutch is fine take it apart and put it back in the car.
Next,
check your slave
(I know you have replaced it and its most likely not it)
Hook your slave up to the line
push in on the slave all the way
while pushing in all the way on the slave have someone push the clutch in slowly
If you have travel in the peddle before the slave starts to push out yo have air in lines.
If that doesn't fix it let me know and I will tell you some other steps that I tried w/ no success
Take it all apart
clean it up
assemble on ground (torque to spec not over or under)
bench press check for disengagement. (doesn't take much)
(if it disengages properly on a bench press then the clutch is fine)
If clutch is fine take it apart and put it back in the car.
Next,
check your slave
(I know you have replaced it and its most likely not it)
Hook your slave up to the line
push in on the slave all the way
while pushing in all the way on the slave have someone push the clutch in slowly
If you have travel in the peddle before the slave starts to push out yo have air in lines.
If that doesn't fix it let me know and I will tell you some other steps that I tried w/ no success
#33
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Took the trans off and tried the slave thing and I felt pressure (strong pressure) the instant my bro pushed the pedal. So I took the PP off to do the spring reset deal. I pressed the fingers down a loooong way and the tension never came off the springs so that I could adjust them. I ordered a new PP from the dealership today. I'll be spending this Thanksgiving underneath my car.
#35
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I bought the LS7 clutch kit from SDPC in Feb or March so according to their site I'm just SOL.
Either way, the SDPC kit came to me with an open bag and was missing some pressure plate bolts, so I had to reuse the old bolts. Really cheesy to send your customers already opened bags and missing some parts, I'd rather not bother them anymore. I got this new one from the local dealership and they will stand behind it if something goes wrong with it.
Either way, the SDPC kit came to me with an open bag and was missing some pressure plate bolts, so I had to reuse the old bolts. Really cheesy to send your customers already opened bags and missing some parts, I'd rather not bother them anymore. I got this new one from the local dealership and they will stand behind it if something goes wrong with it.
#36
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I put the clutch in on Friday and immediately stripped out the slave cylinder bolt. So Saturday, I drill out the hole and tap it for a larger screw that worked fine. Got everything put together and stuck a socket up there to release pressure from slave to install the pos quick disconnect and now there is a 7/16 socket in my bellhousing. FML.
#38
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Here in podunk Arkansas the only two places near me that had even heard of an internal slave cylinder were the dealership and one other place that is so busy they can't see my car for at least two weeks.
I guess I'm dropping the starter, can I just remove the two bolts holding the starter and let it hang or are my headers going to make this a pain to get the starter out?
I guess I'm dropping the starter, can I just remove the two bolts holding the starter and let it hang or are my headers going to make this a pain to get the starter out?
#39
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This is complete horseshit... I'm sorry you're going through this kind of **** man. Unfortunately I've been going through this same bullshit for the past 6 months!
Still no one can help me including Textralia which won't answer my phone calls.
Same deal with me, it won't go into gear without a fight, trying to make a fast shift is impossible... you have to rev match all your shifts if you want to get it go in within 5 seconds. If anyone wants to bother saying I need to bleed my clutch they can shove their own foot up their ***, I've done that, way more then necessary. If it was air and needed a bleed it would be inconsistantly shitty... but its not, its always predictably the same annoying traits.
Bled multiple times, Tick Adj. MC, Textralia Clutch... I've asked multiple sources if its possible it just needs a shim and how big and everyone says thats out of the question...
Why am I getting no help from Textralia?!? I bought from those guys because everyone said they had great customer service and stand behind their product... well where the hell is this service everyone talked about?
Anyway, I'm really curious to see how this turns out because its very similar to my situation...
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Same deal with me, it won't go into gear without a fight, trying to make a fast shift is impossible... you have to rev match all your shifts if you want to get it go in within 5 seconds. If anyone wants to bother saying I need to bleed my clutch they can shove their own foot up their ***, I've done that, way more then necessary. If it was air and needed a bleed it would be inconsistantly shitty... but its not, its always predictably the same annoying traits.
Bled multiple times, Tick Adj. MC, Textralia Clutch... I've asked multiple sources if its possible it just needs a shim and how big and everyone says thats out of the question...
Why am I getting no help from Textralia?!? I bought from those guys because everyone said they had great customer service and stand behind their product... well where the hell is this service everyone talked about?
Anyway, I'm really curious to see how this turns out because its very similar to my situation...