Tick Master cylinder
10-22-2009, 11:49 PM
#1
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Tick Master cylinder Hi guys, I started to project today of putting my spec 3+ clutch and flywheel kit. I finished that up and started on my tick master cylinder. It is a damn nightmare. Do I need to remove the brake booster to gain access? Anyone with some tips or tricks that would make this go over a lot better would be appreciated. Are there any how-to on this?
Thnaks in advance for any help given. I see some views but no responses. if you know anything about this install help me out.
Thnaks in advance for any help given. I see some views but no responses. if you know anything about this install help me out.
Last edited by redhotz28; 10-23-2009 at 12:16 AM.
10-23-2009, 08:49 AM
#2
I always remove the steering shaft for master cyl swaps, only takes a couple minutes (2 bolts) and give a lot more wiggle room. You do not have to remove the brake booster. Take the turnbuckle off the Tick master pushrod before installing. It's a tight fit and a PIA, but you'll get it. Took me almost 2hrs by myself....lining up the bolt holes is a major pain without an extra set of hands!
10-23-2009, 09:10 AM
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here is the basics. Just replace Mcleod with Tick and dont worry about the drill mod.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm
10-23-2009, 09:14 AM
#4
Unfortunately you do not need to remove the Boost Master to get in there. You just need to fiddle **** with it until it gets in there.
have you removed the stocker?? there is a stupid "star" washer That gives people grief and it is behind the metal tab/bracket.
You do need a second person on the inside, feed the M/C rod 1st down between the header area and steering shaft andit will just need to be messed with and it will basically drop in.
The other PITA is getting the bolts to line up when attatching the unit to the fire wall. Have the Rod end attatched to the Clutch Pedal before attempting the final bolting.
I have installed the original and a upgraded aluminum unit, one did not fit much better the the other IMO.
** Edit, yup the rod end needs to come off 1st, then when it feeds through the wall, it can go back on. Also remove driver side seat and lay down some thick cloth, this will help the person on the inside.
have you removed the stocker?? there is a stupid "star" washer That gives people grief and it is behind the metal tab/bracket.
You do need a second person on the inside, feed the M/C rod 1st down between the header area and steering shaft andit will just need to be messed with and it will basically drop in.
The other PITA is getting the bolts to line up when attatching the unit to the fire wall. Have the Rod end attatched to the Clutch Pedal before attempting the final bolting.
I have installed the original and a upgraded aluminum unit, one did not fit much better the the other IMO.
** Edit, yup the rod end needs to come off 1st, then when it feeds through the wall, it can go back on. Also remove driver side seat and lay down some thick cloth, this will help the person on the inside.
10-23-2009, 02:26 PM
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Definitely take out the drivers side seat. I was to stubborn to take the seat out. I thought it would take more time to take the seat out then install it, WRONG. Do yourself and your back a favor, take out the seat. I'm a pretty tall guy and it's hard to move your arms around all scrunched up down there with the seat making your back arch all fucked up.
10-23-2009, 08:22 PM
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alright I got it done. i adjusted til it goes into gear. Those of you with the mc, does your clutch all the way at the bottom? I need to push it to the floor and then just moving a hair it releases. is this how it is supposed to be?
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10-24-2009, 10:23 AM
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No you should be able to adjust the pedal to engage wherever you like it. Try adjusting it first but most likely you still have air in the system if it is not working after adjusting it.
10-24-2009, 10:25 AM
#9
It's not really recommended to adjust it to where you like, but rather to the point it fully releases. Anymore travel than necessary or overtravel can occur which will ruin your clutch. I for one would prefer it closer to the floor than it currently is, but I can't get my pedal to reach my cruise control switch with any less than 6.5 turns. I get full release (6k clutch drag test) at the 5 turns mark.
10-24-2009, 10:25 AM
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Definitely take out the drivers side seat. I was to stubborn to take the seat out. I thought it would take more time to take the seat out then install it, WRONG. Do yourself and your back a favor, take out the seat. I'm a pretty tall guy and it's hard to move your arms around all scrunched up down there with the seat making your back arch all fucked up.
