Please help! Clucth disengagement issues - weeks now!
10-29-2009, 11:50 AM
#1
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Please help! Clucth disengagement issues - weeks now! So about a month ago I was filling up at the local gas station. After I topped off, I started her and tried to leave, but couldn't get into any gear. Eventually I started the car already in gear and it did "ok" for a bit, then I heard some rattles, and after a few mins it was fine. That weekend I tore into the tranny, and saw that some of my clutch disc springs were broken off. I got a new clutch plate, had the flexplate refinished, and got a new slave cylinder.
After reassembling, I couldn't get the car into gear at all again. 'Bout this time I'm getting pissed. I dropped the tranny again, double checked my pressure plate bolts, and reassembled, and bled. Same problem. I thought at this time it might be the shim issue. (I installed no shim)
At this point I did the DIY adjustable master cylinder writeup, and it seemed to adjust well and all was fine. For about 24 hours. After that, every once in awhile I would have to double or triple pump to hit a gear. Just every once in awhile. It's gotten worse and worse, and now it's undrivable again.
The car is a '99. I did the adjustable MC mod but haven't done the drill out. I'd assume since I can't get it into any gear at all at this point, it's more than hydro fluid flow issues. I was curious what symptoms a MC will give when it's gone bad. The resevoir stays full, so it's hard to believe there is a leak. Not to mention, I see no fluid leaking. Is it possible there is a hole big enough for air to seep in and cause these problems?
I'm on the edge of buying a tick MC, but as you can guess, I'm getting tired of putting more and more $$ into it with no results. Is it possible when I did the adjustable MC, that I could have possibly blown a seal in my slave from all the new "throw"? Is there some way I can test the master to see if it's bad?
I'd appreciate any advice you guys have to offer. I've been doing a shitload of reading... but now I'm just going in circles.
After reassembling, I couldn't get the car into gear at all again. 'Bout this time I'm getting pissed. I dropped the tranny again, double checked my pressure plate bolts, and reassembled, and bled. Same problem. I thought at this time it might be the shim issue. (I installed no shim)
At this point I did the DIY adjustable master cylinder writeup, and it seemed to adjust well and all was fine. For about 24 hours. After that, every once in awhile I would have to double or triple pump to hit a gear. Just every once in awhile. It's gotten worse and worse, and now it's undrivable again.
The car is a '99. I did the adjustable MC mod but haven't done the drill out. I'd assume since I can't get it into any gear at all at this point, it's more than hydro fluid flow issues. I was curious what symptoms a MC will give when it's gone bad. The resevoir stays full, so it's hard to believe there is a leak. Not to mention, I see no fluid leaking. Is it possible there is a hole big enough for air to seep in and cause these problems?
I'm on the edge of buying a tick MC, but as you can guess, I'm getting tired of putting more and more $$ into it with no results. Is it possible when I did the adjustable MC, that I could have possibly blown a seal in my slave from all the new "throw"? Is there some way I can test the master to see if it's bad?
I'd appreciate any advice you guys have to offer. I've been doing a shitload of reading... but now I'm just going in circles.
10-30-2009, 08:19 AM
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Yeah... refinished. Did not get the shim, and because of that wound up making my MC adjustable (DIY fix). Worked fine for awhile... nothing works at all now though unless the car is off.
10-30-2009, 08:55 AM
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it can only be 4 things..
loose bolts on the pressure plate.
bad master.
bad slave.
air in the lines.
sounds like you've done everything but the slave....
10-30-2009, 09:06 AM
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First of all...car OFF...tranny go into gear OK?
If so:
hydro
PP
Shim
air in line
FYI, not but 1 week ago, bought NEW MC, and got it installed, and it was BAD from get go. Yeah, that was not cool.
How are you bleeding it? No need to start throwing money at it until you start with basics. Let's bleed it right, and go from there...
If so:
hydro
PP
Shim
air in line
FYI, not but 1 week ago, bought NEW MC, and got it installed, and it was BAD from get go. Yeah, that was not cool.
How are you bleeding it? No need to start throwing money at it until you start with basics. Let's bleed it right, and go from there...
10-30-2009, 09:10 AM
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I've replaced the slave. Actually dropped the tranny once just to check the PP bolts. They are on to the tune of around 50lbs apiece. Like I said, killed the shim in place of the adjustable.
However, having talked about bleeding, my method has been pump and pump and hold down, crack, tighten and repeat. I just read about the method where you crack the bleeder, push the pedal down, and tighten, and repeat that 4-5 times. I'm going to give that a shot tonight.
Come to think of it, it doesn't seem like we ever added all that much fluid after I emptied the MC (modifying to make it adjustable). So maybe, possibly, hopefully it's a shitload of air that is causing not to be able to shift at all now.
To clarify, I can get the car in gear while it's off, no problem. Just when it's on that it sucks.
However, having talked about bleeding, my method has been pump and pump and hold down, crack, tighten and repeat. I just read about the method where you crack the bleeder, push the pedal down, and tighten, and repeat that 4-5 times. I'm going to give that a shot tonight.
Come to think of it, it doesn't seem like we ever added all that much fluid after I emptied the MC (modifying to make it adjustable). So maybe, possibly, hopefully it's a shitload of air that is causing not to be able to shift at all now.
To clarify, I can get the car in gear while it's off, no problem. Just when it's on that it sucks.
10-30-2009, 09:18 AM
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I've replaced the slave. Actually dropped the tranny once just to check the PP bolts. They are on to the tune of around 50lbs apiece. Like I said, killed the shim in place of the adjustable.
However, having talked about bleeding, my method has been pump and pump and hold down, crack, tighten and repeat. I just read about the method where you crack the bleeder, push the pedal down, and tighten, and repeat that 4-5 times. I'm going to give that a shot tonight.
Come to think of it, it doesn't seem like we ever added all that much fluid after I emptied the MC (modifying to make it adjustable). So maybe, possibly, hopefully it's a shitload of air that is causing not to be able to shift at all now.
BINGO!!!!! When bleeding it, that reserovir should empty QUICKLY and need to be refilled every 4-5 "pumps" of pedal...
To clarify, I can get the car in gear while it's off, no problem. Just when it's on that it sucks.
However, having talked about bleeding, my method has been pump and pump and hold down, crack, tighten and repeat. I just read about the method where you crack the bleeder, push the pedal down, and tighten, and repeat that 4-5 times. I'm going to give that a shot tonight.
Come to think of it, it doesn't seem like we ever added all that much fluid after I emptied the MC (modifying to make it adjustable). So maybe, possibly, hopefully it's a shitload of air that is causing not to be able to shift at all now.
BINGO!!!!! When bleeding it, that reserovir should empty QUICKLY and need to be refilled every 4-5 "pumps" of pedal...
To clarify, I can get the car in gear while it's off, no problem. Just when it's on that it sucks.
Now, I am NOT a big fan of how you are bleeding it.
Here:
2 people
1 under car
1 in car
car on jackstands
top off reservoir
apply pressure to pedal but do NOT pump pedal or push to floor
tell person under car, open bleeder.
Push pedal to floor, right BEFORE pedal gets to floor, yell, CLOSE IT
udner car, closes bleeder
in car, release pedal
Repeat steps above
After 4-5 times of this, reservoir will need fluid.
Top off and repeat until pedal is firm.
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10-31-2009, 08:16 AM
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Last night while trying to adjust it again after FAILED BLEEDING attempts AGAIN, I broke the MC rod (it'd been threaded from the DIY adjustable MC fix). Sooooo I guess I will wind up order the tick afterall.
I've not replaced the master cylinder. So, this is really the only thing I hadn't replaced. Evidentally I DID need the shim, because when I got it all back together a few weeks ago it stillwouldn't go into gear. Rather than tear it all down, I made the MC adjustable and it drove for awhile like that but got worse and worse until it was completely undrivable. Here goes $350! If it doesn't work after this I'm going to be pissed!
I've not replaced the master cylinder. So, this is really the only thing I hadn't replaced. Evidentally I DID need the shim, because when I got it all back together a few weeks ago it stillwouldn't go into gear. Rather than tear it all down, I made the MC adjustable and it drove for awhile like that but got worse and worse until it was completely undrivable. Here goes $350! If it doesn't work after this I'm going to be pissed!
10-31-2009, 09:43 AM
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Last night while trying to adjust it again after FAILED BLEEDING attempts AGAIN, I broke the MC rod (it'd been threaded from the DIY adjustable MC fix). Sooooo I guess I will wind up order the tick afterall.
I've not replaced the master cylinder. So, this is really the only thing I hadn't replaced. Evidentally I DID need the shim, because when I got it all back together a few weeks ago it stillwouldn't go into gear. Rather than tear it all down, I made the MC adjustable and it drove for awhile like that but got worse and worse until it was completely undrivable. Here goes $350! If it doesn't work after this I'm going to be pissed!
I've not replaced the master cylinder. So, this is really the only thing I hadn't replaced. Evidentally I DID need the shim, because when I got it all back together a few weeks ago it stillwouldn't go into gear. Rather than tear it all down, I made the MC adjustable and it drove for awhile like that but got worse and worse until it was completely undrivable. Here goes $350! If it doesn't work after this I'm going to be pissed!
WHOA...wait a minute!!!!
10-31-2009, 09:51 AM
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OK, now that I have your attention, don't fret so easily. I just got finished working on a customers car, here is a good read for you....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-stock-mc.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-stock-mc.html
10-31-2009, 01:52 PM
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Thanks for the help man. I went ahead and order the Tick. HOpefully when I get it in all will be well. If not... well... I'll deal with that if i comes to it. It's hard to believe that through all the bleeding methods I tried, that none worked. The tick doesn't come pre-bled, correct? Perhaps if I know how much it's supposed tohold, I can measure what I'm putting in to know if I'm in the ballpark. Waiting game now!
