what to look for when buying a used t56
11-03-2009, 09:04 AM
#1
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what to look for when buying a used t56 I am going to look at a t56 trans this Friday out of a 97 trans am. It is currently out of the car.
I was told it shifted and operated properly. The trans has 90k miles on it.
Are there any checks I can perform while it is out of the car? What should I look for to to help minimize the risk of getting a bad unit?
Thanks
I was told it shifted and operated properly. The trans has 90k miles on it.
Are there any checks I can perform while it is out of the car? What should I look for to to help minimize the risk of getting a bad unit?
Thanks
11-03-2009, 09:11 AM
#2
You won't know what's up with it till it's in the Car running. The best things you can do while it's out is get a shifter and make sure it goes into every gear and turn the Input Shaft while you do that to see if the Mainshaft spins. Also check the end play on the Input Shaft..make sure it's not flopping around, it should have little side to side movement. Check the end of it too where the Pilot Bearing rides on.
11-03-2009, 09:15 AM
#3
I've bought a few of them used and had good luck by following above mentioned method. Make sure it goes into every gear and spins smoothly. Unless your ( or the seller ) is willing to tear it down theres not much else you can do. The good thing is they are a pretty stout trans to begin with so odds are probably on your side that its okay. Also ask questions like "What did it come out of?"
Why is it for sale etc. Might shed some light on the history of it. Then again you can always get the BS factor too so use your noggin
Why is it for sale etc. Might shed some light on the history of it. Then again you can always get the BS factor too so use your noggin
11-04-2009, 08:35 AM
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Grab input shaft, rock it around, see how much play is in it. Also, bring a shifter with you, bolt it on, go through gears with shifter (trying to go through gears without shifter, can make you think it is hard to get into gear)
Also, you can pop front plate off. 3/8 drive racthet, short extension, and 15MM socket, and 10 minutes later, you are looking at most of teh goodies. You cancheck keys and forks and pads, alot of teh gears, the 3/4 synchro, shifter rail, A LOT of goodies can be seen with midplate popped off (not to mention, crap in the bottom of the tranny)
If seller does not want you to do that, walk away....
Also, you can pop front plate off. 3/8 drive racthet, short extension, and 15MM socket, and 10 minutes later, you are looking at most of teh goodies. You cancheck keys and forks and pads, alot of teh gears, the 3/4 synchro, shifter rail, A LOT of goodies can be seen with midplate popped off (not to mention, crap in the bottom of the tranny)
If seller does not want you to do that, walk away....
11-04-2009, 11:00 AM
#7
Grab input shaft, rock it around, see how much play is in it. Also, bring a shifter with you, bolt it on, go through gears with shifter (trying to go through gears without shifter, can make you think it is hard to get into gear)
Also, you can pop front plate off. 3/8 drive racthet, short extension, and 15MM socket, and 10 minutes later, you are looking at most of teh goodies. You cancheck keys and forks and pads, alot of teh gears, the 3/4 synchro, shifter rail, A LOT of goodies can be seen with midplate popped off (not to mention, crap in the bottom of the tranny)
If seller does not want you to do that, walk away....
Also, you can pop front plate off. 3/8 drive racthet, short extension, and 15MM socket, and 10 minutes later, you are looking at most of teh goodies. You cancheck keys and forks and pads, alot of teh gears, the 3/4 synchro, shifter rail, A LOT of goodies can be seen with midplate popped off (not to mention, crap in the bottom of the tranny)
If seller does not want you to do that, walk away....
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11-04-2009, 11:47 AM
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Its always buyer beware. Hell I have built hundreds of T56 units and have still been burned buying pull out units from people. I bought an LS1 unit a couple of years ago from a guy and it felt smooth as could be when turned. I didn't bother cracking it open. Well when I went to open it up to use it for a customer, it had been ran low on oil and was crap.
The simple fact is, you take a chance buying a used unit unless you actually drove the car or rode in it before it was pulled out.
The simple fact is, you take a chance buying a used unit unless you actually drove the car or rode in it before it was pulled out.
11-04-2009, 04:37 PM
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11-04-2009, 05:13 PM
#11
Hmmm good points fellas. Its been five years since I've bought one and it was pretty much new then iirc it had 21k miles on it plus it was likely out of a stock car. Nowadays these cars aint getting any younger and more and more are modded to hell and back couple with higher mileage and not to mention the abuse... oh lord the abuse I caneeeee take eee new morrrrrrrrre lol
11-04-2009, 06:49 PM
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Hmmm good points fellas. Its been five years since I've bought one and it was pretty much new then iirc it had 21k miles on it plus it was likely out of a stock car. Nowadays these cars aint getting any younger and more and more are modded to hell and back couple with higher mileage and not to mention the abuse... oh lord the abuse I caneeeee take eee new morrrrrrrrre lol
Well, while some guys may have thrown some "doubt" your way, just keep this in mind when buying...how well do you know the guy? Is he "respectable" or "well known" on a website? Look at all those things before you even start to think about buying something.
Shoot, there is a guy lurking around here, trying to sell a T56, bell, driveshaft, pedals, shifter, wiring harness, etc...WHOLE bunch of parts for like $850, and the guy had ONE (1) post here on teh board... First thing I said was BULLSHIT!!!! No way a T56 with all those parts are going for that cheap, unless something is wrong with it. Well, thanks to some good detective work by another member, we found out that guy ripped off another person on another website (guy sent him $400 deposit, and guy "disappeared").
So, when things are too good to be true, then they are. So, make sure you buy from a "reputable" person/shop that has their "name" to protect, check the things you can check, and once all of that is done, you should be good to go.
Sure, nothing is 100%, but dong the steps above, give you a better chance of finding a good solid unit.
Besides, if the unit you buy DOES need to be rebuilt, I can always take care of you!!
11-04-2009, 09:01 PM
#13
You are right. This is why I do not buy "pull outs" anymore. I only buy "cores" and offer "core" cash on them. Even then, you still get burned. I was burned a few months ago by a guy on here selling a core. When it showed up, about half of it was missing and to make things worse, the lugs on the rear of the cluster gear were stripped off. It was a "3rd gear scratching only" deal. Yeah freaking right......
Mine was supposed to be smooth and in good working order...yea ok..
Last edited by the_merv; 11-05-2009 at 07:43 AM.
11-05-2009, 08:11 AM
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http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec.../photo_05.html
The above link is a picture of the front plate removed.
Can someone describe was is shown working from the top of the picture down?
Thanks
The above link is a picture of the front plate removed.
Can someone describe was is shown working from the top of the picture down?
Thanks
11-05-2009, 10:40 AM
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Well, while some guys may have thrown some "doubt" your way, just keep this in mind when buying...how well do you know the guy? Is he "respectable" or "well known" on a website? Look at all those things before you even start to think about buying something.
Shoot, there is a guy lurking around here, trying to sell a T56, bell, driveshaft, pedals, shifter, wiring harness, etc...WHOLE bunch of parts for like $850, and the guy had ONE (1) post here on teh board... First thing I said was BULLSHIT!!!! No way a T56 with all those parts are going for that cheap, unless something is wrong with it. Well, thanks to some good detective work by another member, we found out that guy ripped off another person on another website (guy sent him $400 deposit, and guy "disappeared").
So, when things are too good to be true, then they are. So, make sure you buy from a "reputable" person/shop that has their "name" to protect, check the things you can check, and once all of that is done, you should be good to go.
Sure, nothing is 100%, but dong the steps above, give you a better chance of finding a good solid unit.
Besides, if the unit you buy DOES need to be rebuilt, I can always take care of you!!
Shoot, there is a guy lurking around here, trying to sell a T56, bell, driveshaft, pedals, shifter, wiring harness, etc...WHOLE bunch of parts for like $850, and the guy had ONE (1) post here on teh board... First thing I said was BULLSHIT!!!! No way a T56 with all those parts are going for that cheap, unless something is wrong with it. Well, thanks to some good detective work by another member, we found out that guy ripped off another person on another website (guy sent him $400 deposit, and guy "disappeared").
So, when things are too good to be true, then they are. So, make sure you buy from a "reputable" person/shop that has their "name" to protect, check the things you can check, and once all of that is done, you should be good to go.
Sure, nothing is 100%, but dong the steps above, give you a better chance of finding a good solid unit.
Besides, if the unit you buy DOES need to be rebuilt, I can always take care of you!!
11-06-2009, 09:25 PM
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I would just like to say thanks for everyones advice.
I purchased the transmission this afternoon and it looks to be a good unit.
There was no play when moving the input shaft. It shifted in all gears smoothly. Transmission fluid looked and smelled good. The keys, pads, syncro and forks that I could see all looked to be almost new.
I have another question on the pedals that came with but that will be in another post.
I purchased the transmission this afternoon and it looks to be a good unit.
There was no play when moving the input shaft. It shifted in all gears smoothly. Transmission fluid looked and smelled good. The keys, pads, syncro and forks that I could see all looked to be almost new.
I have another question on the pedals that came with but that will be in another post.