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SSR Fbody T56 hybrid project (1000hp on stock parts?)

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Old 02-10-2014, 07:42 PM
  #221  
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Thanks for all the hard work! One question, if I have a 2006 GTO T56 I would need the following to do the conversion right?:

SSR Mainshaft $160
SSR bushing and Seal $12
Spicer slip-yoke $80
Machining $170ish
CTS-V 1st gear $130
Total $552

Then if I wanted to do the 1pc counter shaft could I just buy the countershaft and a M10 1st gear since the other M10 (2nd-6th) ratios are the same as the M12? I think this is essentially said in one paragraph of the writeup but I just want to make sure.
Old 02-10-2014, 11:13 PM
  #222  
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SSR 5th/6th gears, a bearing spacer.
Old 02-11-2014, 07:14 AM
  #223  
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I would just machine your first gear instead of buying a new one.
Old 05-14-2014, 10:52 AM
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If anyone needs the ssr main shaft and tail housing I have them here. I bought them and was going to rebuild the t56 but I just don't have the time so I ordered a magnum. They are brand new.
Old 10-15-2014, 10:49 AM
  #225  
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fast98 I sent you a pm. Let me know if you got it.
Old 01-07-2015, 07:30 AM
  #226  
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I haven't seen the insides of a Magnum. I wonder how close the Magnum tailshaft would follow with the SSR upgrade. I already suspect the shifter rail etc. Any thoughts?
Old 01-07-2015, 07:31 AM
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I think the magnum is basically a TR6060.
Old 01-07-2015, 07:57 AM
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I found some info stating the tail housing is 2"s longer. So that leaves the SSR upgrade off the table leaving you with an unaltered Viper shaft or ZR1 shaft as your only upgrade option from the Fbody T56.

I was just thinking about the benefit of the mechanical speedo for us hybrid swap guys. And the option of swapping out to a Magnum later if need arose, without having to change driveshafts. If you already have access to a tail house.

Last edited by Stovebolter; 01-07-2015 at 08:10 AM.
Old 01-07-2015, 09:30 PM
  #229  
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You should also read https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...dy-pics-4.html since it is TR6060 related.
Old 07-05-2017, 12:57 PM
  #230  
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Hope no one minds me bringing this back from the dead, but I've had a tough time finding which parts would be used from the donor trans and/or why you wouldn't use the original parts from the existing F Body trans.

I guess my question is this: I have a F Body T56 and (so far) no donor. When I find a C6 Z06 (or other) donor, what parts am I transferring from that tranny into my F Body tranny? Or is the donor just so you don't have to remove the F Body T56 from the car?

I apologize if that is a stupid question lol
Old 07-05-2017, 07:46 PM
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Is the F-body T56 a core or the one in your car?
Are you trying to gain triple/double cone synchros or different ratios?
The "which parts" question, I will refer you read the PDF in post 1 again.
Old 07-05-2017, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
Is the F-body T56 a core or the one in your car?
Are you trying to gain triple/double cone synchros or different ratios?
The "which parts" question, I will refer you read the PDF in post 1 again.
I'm sorry about that, I should have clarified. The f body t56 is in my car currently. I'd like to keep the ratios and gain the double and triple cone synchros. That makes me believe the donor trans would be only for the synchros? If so it's cheaper to just buy synchros isn't it?
Old 07-05-2017, 09:01 PM
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Changing synchros means you're changing shafts (3 of them) and gears (all but idler, 5-6 cluster and reverse.) Reasonably priced C5 core is your answer. Else, get as much as you can for yours, and go Magnum, changing 5/6 if you want.
Old 07-05-2017, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
Changing synchros means you're changing shafts (3 of them) and gears (all but idler, 5-6 cluster and reverse.) Reasonably priced C5 core is your answer. Else, get as much as you can for yours, and go Magnum, changing 5/6 if you want.
so get a C5 core, take the synchros and gears from it, then use the SSR 32 spline shaft, 1 piece counter, and SSR tailhousing with bigger yoke?
Old 07-06-2017, 09:09 PM
  #235  
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The 06-07 Z06 1pc. countershaft, and 5th / 6th gears must go together. If you're not banging 5th and 6th shifts, skip those parts. If you stay 2pc counter, get the f-body extension housing machined.
Old 07-06-2017, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
The 06-07 Z06 1pc. countershaft, and 5th / 6th gears must go together. If you're not banging 5th and 6th shifts, skip those parts. If you stay 2pc counter, get the f-body extension housing machined.
Thanks so much that has cleared up a ton!
Old 12-22-2017, 06:41 PM
  #237  
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The SSR main shaft is no longer available?? Does anyone know about this?

Actually it looks like it's on Ebay.....
Old 12-23-2017, 03:49 AM
  #238  
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This is a DEAD option! Hell, the OP hasn't been on the board in over 2 years. This mod has become so antiquated, due to the lack of parts availability, that it's not even worth being a sticky. The mods just need to close this out already.
Old 12-23-2017, 01:04 PM
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Really? I found the mainshaft on Fleabay... Haven't looked around much for the other parts seems like it's still doable though?
Old 02-21-2018, 04:09 PM
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Well I bought what I believe to be the last SSR T56 mainshaft in the world that was available to purchase. Should be here in a few days.

I also picked up a C5 NON Z06 trans for the internals. I'm going to build one of these hybrid T56s and see just how far it can be pushed. The T56 I have been running had the common 3/4 synchro key failure so I figured I'd upgrade it all the way while I have it apart.

It would really be nice if someone from the aftermarket stepped up to supply the SSR mainshafts. I know alot of people go Magnum or TR6060, but with the clutching teeth being so much smaller and less forgiving of miss shifts, all the other "strengths" they have over the T56 seem to be negated.

This hybrid T56 I'm about to build should be tested quite well in the 5,000 pound pickup it's going in with a turbo 6.0 making 550-600 HP. Eventually I'd like to up the boost and go for somewhere around 700-800. Will the T56 last? Who knows. I'll also be adding a pump eventually. Going to go ahead and weld a bung and sprayer fitting in the case while it's apart to spray oil at the headset gears being input and the cluster. That really seems to be the weak link once all the other areas have been addressed.


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