SSR Fbody T56 hybrid project (1000hp on stock parts?)
09-06-2011, 09:42 AM
#161
Yes.. I've never had the SSR bushing go in without having to hone it. Since you are also machining the tailhousing true-round, any small deviation can cause the yoke to hit/bind the bushing when centered on the case alignment dowels and the mainshaft splines.
09-06-2011, 06:16 PM
#164
If you're in a pinch, you might be able to take your yoke to a machineshop or brake shop and have them polish down the OD. But it's not ideal unless you take the trans with you for them to measure/test how much they need to take off of it. You want a close, but not overly tight fit between yoke and bushing. It may be just as easy to take off the tailhousing for a hone if a shop/equipment is available. Just have to clean off the RTV and reseal it and R&R the shifter offset lever..
09-07-2011, 03:35 PM
#167
Banned
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Adkins - Tx
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Completely depends on the whole setup. A deeper 1st gear will benefit cars with less torque or in heavier applications. In cars making a lot of torque or in lighter cars, the 2.66 is the preferred gear ratio. GM figured that out in the C6 Z06 transmissions which now use a 2.66 ratio instead of the 2.97 they use to.
09-07-2011, 11:36 PM
#168
If you're in a pinch, you might be able to take your yoke to a machineshop or brake shop and have them polish down the OD. But it's not ideal unless you take the trans with you for them to measure/test how much they need to take off of it. You want a close, but not overly tight fit between yoke and bushing. It may be just as easy to take off the tailhousing for a hone if a shop/equipment is available. Just have to clean off the RTV and reseal it and R&R the shifter offset lever..
hey, what do you think about a balanced driveshaft running a 1310 u joint up front and a 1350 in the rear? Besides the obvious strength difference.
09-08-2011, 01:06 PM
#169
IIRC, 1310 is the next step up in strength from a stock 3R. If you're going to drive fast, you're good. If you're going to launch hard on slicks, inspect the driveline every oil cahnge regularly and worry about it all when it breaks.
09-08-2011, 07:00 PM
#171
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (52)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SGV, So Cal
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're in a pinch, you might be able to take your yoke to a machineshop or brake shop and have them polish down the OD. But it's not ideal unless you take the trans with you for them to measure/test how much they need to take off of it. You want a close, but not overly tight fit between yoke and bushing. It may be just as easy to take off the tailhousing for a hone if a shop/equipment is available. Just have to clean off the RTV and reseal it and R&R the shifter offset lever..
09-08-2011, 07:27 PM
#172
Doing the 32-spline mod? Or reducing it's diameter down to a viper 30-spline OD ?
Shouldn't be an issue with either. The PDF write-up discusses this, but it's been suggested that going down to a viper sized may be better done to a billet yoke.
Shouldn't be an issue with either. The PDF write-up discusses this, but it's been suggested that going down to a viper sized may be better done to a billet yoke.
09-08-2011, 08:13 PM
#174
A 32-spline mainshaft and a SSR bushing should just require a little hone work.
If you're talking about your 1310 driveshaft, you should just need a conversion -ujoint. ($50 Strange U1646 converts 1310 to 1350...)
Instead of chasing the weakest link, you might want to just convert everything to 1350 ujoints.
09-08-2011, 11:16 PM
#175
From what I understand a custom 32 spline yoke is needed.
So it was made using the tailhousing and bushing for reference.
Hone work was too difficult and would not be perfect or reliable, from information I was given.
So it was made using the tailhousing and bushing for reference.
Hone work was too difficult and would not be perfect or reliable, from information I was given.
09-09-2011, 12:42 AM
#176
Staging Lane
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The PDF link will never change. Updated versions get uploaded and overwrite the previous.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
Any other copies that may be floating around may not be current/correct.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
Any other copies that may be floating around may not be current/correct.
Last edited by maxvelocityseeker; 09-09-2011 at 12:49 AM. Reason: noted in text
09-09-2011, 08:35 AM
#177
This is an exception, not the rule, something your builder has done and not representative of the intent of this thread... I've built dozens of these hybrids using the free info in the write-up and never had an issue like you're describing.
09-09-2011, 05:29 PM
#179
That sucks that your builder didn't check his work against a correct yoke and then you got stuck with a shoppe that likes to sing Sinatra's "My way."
Realistically, you may have been able to enlarge the bushing i.d. with a $15 brake hone. Not ideal but...
Realistically, you may have been able to enlarge the bushing i.d. with a $15 brake hone. Not ideal but...
09-09-2011, 05:37 PM
#180
If the outer diameter of that custom 1 off slip yoke is turned, rather than ground...I'd be much more concerned than with honing the bushing to the correct diameter...surface finishes are CRITICAL for function/survival of bushings and seals...a turned surface (even a really really well done turned surface) is most likely not going to be correct and you're always going to have leak issues...but maybe you're lucky and they have a grinding head for their lathe.
The only way to reslove the issue, in my opinion, was to remove the tailshaft, hone the bushing to the correct diameter, and then use an off the shelf slip yoke made by a company that makes them for a living.
The only way to reslove the issue, in my opinion, was to remove the tailshaft, hone the bushing to the correct diameter, and then use an off the shelf slip yoke made by a company that makes them for a living.