Just esploded my new Monster Stage 2
#41
a thought....
by "balanced"....is it for external or internal balanced motor....my point is your replacement FW the correct one for your set-up?
if not this would certainly cause a vibration and I would suspect that situation would also effect clutch.
by "balanced"....is it for external or internal balanced motor....my point is your replacement FW the correct one for your set-up?
if not this would certainly cause a vibration and I would suspect that situation would also effect clutch.
#42
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I would definately replace the bellhousing. Any size crack is only going to get worse and even if it's not your problem now, it will be in the future. You may even be able to get it welded depending on how deep it is but I would just replace it if it were me.
#43
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Replace the bellhousing for sure and make sure you check the transmission bushing that mounts to the crossbrace for any tears. Like Spec-01 said, make sure the dowels are still in the motor to properly align the transmission! When putting the transmission back in, it should slide right on and butt right up to the back of the motor without any resistance. If you have to force it, or use the bolts to pull it on, something is not right. Make sure you use the proper high-temp/pressure grease on the pilot bearing in the back of the crank as well.
Lastly, what driveshaft are you using? I would suggest getting your driveshaft rebalanced just to make sure its not causing any excess vibration. Your monster setup should all be fully balanced, the new clutch disk will not effect the balance of your FW and PP.
Lastly, what driveshaft are you using? I would suggest getting your driveshaft rebalanced just to make sure its not causing any excess vibration. Your monster setup should all be fully balanced, the new clutch disk will not effect the balance of your FW and PP.
#44
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I was thinking, with the bellhousing being cracked, that someone along the line tried to torque down on everything without it being completely straight. If that's the case it could very well be distorted too, causing some excessive wear. Dunno if it could do it to this extent but it's worth checking out.
#45
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It's ok, he has motor mounts and grid pedals in his mod list.
I agree. It's not the clutch. It was like when I couldn't get the intake to seal on my 406. After 8 different times it didn't seal I looked somewhere else!
Maybe the pics would help.
Why did you get a stage 4 rebuild for a bolt on car? Where you planning on adding a bunch more power later on?
Hopefully we will see some resolution in this thread. Something that blows clutches up that fast should be kinda obvious I would think, but I am not a transmission guy.
No one else said it so I will..
You got a sound that is abnormal and from the way you say it, it's pretty extreme..yet you chose to drive the car.
You sir fucked that one up.
Tear it down..don't **** around this time, and start looking at everything..these guys here gave some good info.
Hell from the sound of some of the SSI ones..I would check to make sure it's NOT an LT1 Input Shaft..
You got a sound that is abnormal and from the way you say it, it's pretty extreme..yet you chose to drive the car.
You sir fucked that one up.
Tear it down..don't **** around this time, and start looking at everything..these guys here gave some good info.
Hell from the sound of some of the SSI ones..I would check to make sure it's NOT an LT1 Input Shaft..
Why did you get a stage 4 rebuild for a bolt on car? Where you planning on adding a bunch more power later on?
Hopefully we will see some resolution in this thread. Something that blows clutches up that fast should be kinda obvious I would think, but I am not a transmission guy.
#47
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Ok after reading through all of this, I am going to throw my $.02 at it. What caused the first clutch to go. Like did you buy the car and it burned the clutch out instantly? Or had you put a few thousand miles on it then something happened, like you hit a water puddle, spun sideways, jumped a curb, and bounced over a parking stop. Ok so thats not realistic but did you do something where you could have bent something in the line of the motor, trans, and rear end. Is your trans lined up straight with the motor, like the trans mount isn't off on the cross member? You don't have a bad motor mount causing a lot of vibration? I can't see this being the problem but worth a check. Interested to hear the fix.
#50
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Wow..I had a problem with my old SPEC STAGE III twice. The first one had the clutch disk melt and fuse to the flywheel and the 2nd one had the springs blow-apart on the clutch disk and fingers break off the pressure plate. My Ram 6130 VDS clutch has has great though, i thought the Monsters were good too?
When you have a faulty part causing a bind it will destroy any disc you put in the car. You don't rip the center out of a disc like this car did and it be the clutches fault.
*Update*
Tranny checked out OK. Input shaft was measured and was straight. No pinched lines, all parts look new. Monster shipped out a new clutch disc to replace the old one. Now, the car does have a vibration when I am driving sometimes. I'm thinking this may have something to do with it. Maybe the vibration is causing something, the input shaft maybe?, to chunk the disc. I'm not sure where the vibration is coming from (or I'd fix it) but it is coming through the center of the car. Tranny cross member or something? These are all things I'm sure he checked out but I'll pursue again. I also should say I do have a small crack in my bellhousing. It's on the upper right portion. Not bad at all. Everyone I've talked to says, "it shouldn't be a problem," "its fine." I'm wondering if i should spring for a new bellhousing just to be safe? Thoughts before I slap another disc back in there and give it another go?
Tranny checked out OK. Input shaft was measured and was straight. No pinched lines, all parts look new. Monster shipped out a new clutch disc to replace the old one. Now, the car does have a vibration when I am driving sometimes. I'm thinking this may have something to do with it. Maybe the vibration is causing something, the input shaft maybe?, to chunk the disc. I'm not sure where the vibration is coming from (or I'd fix it) but it is coming through the center of the car. Tranny cross member or something? These are all things I'm sure he checked out but I'll pursue again. I also should say I do have a small crack in my bellhousing. It's on the upper right portion. Not bad at all. Everyone I've talked to says, "it shouldn't be a problem," "its fine." I'm wondering if i should spring for a new bellhousing just to be safe? Thoughts before I slap another disc back in there and give it another go?
Like I told Rick at Synergy, I warrantied that disc to help you out and in no way were we (Monster Clutch Co.) saying that our disc being defective was the cause in that particular failure. You have other issues and they need to be addressed quickly.
Also, your flywheel is zero balanced, your pressure plate and disc are balanced within 8 grams and are not the vibration issue.
Let me know what you come up with!
#51
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We are.
When you have a faulty part causing a bind it will destroy any disc you put in the car. You don't rip the center out of a disc like this car did and it be the clutches fault.
Broken bell housing could be an issue, it's definetly in the alignment of the trans to motor IMHO.
Like I told Rick at Synergy, I warrantied that disc to help you out and in no way were we (Monster Clutch Co.) saying that our disc being defective was the cause in that particular failure. You have other issues and they need to be addressed quickly.
Also, your flywheel is zero balanced, your pressure plate and disc are balanced within 8 grams and are not the vibration issue.
Let me know what you come up with!
When you have a faulty part causing a bind it will destroy any disc you put in the car. You don't rip the center out of a disc like this car did and it be the clutches fault.
Broken bell housing could be an issue, it's definetly in the alignment of the trans to motor IMHO.
Like I told Rick at Synergy, I warrantied that disc to help you out and in no way were we (Monster Clutch Co.) saying that our disc being defective was the cause in that particular failure. You have other issues and they need to be addressed quickly.
Also, your flywheel is zero balanced, your pressure plate and disc are balanced within 8 grams and are not the vibration issue.
Let me know what you come up with!
Now that's a stand up company!! I'll be ordering my stage 3 and tick master combo very shortyly
#53
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We are.
When you have a faulty part causing a bind it will destroy any disc you put in the car. You don't rip the center out of a disc like this car did and it be the clutches fault.
Broken bell housing could be an issue, it's definetly in the alignment of the trans to motor IMHO.
Like I told Rick at Synergy, I warrantied that disc to help you out and in no way were we (Monster Clutch Co.) saying that our disc being defective was the cause in that particular failure. You have other issues and they need to be addressed quickly.
Also, your flywheel is zero balanced, your pressure plate and disc are balanced within 8 grams and are not the vibration issue.
Let me know what you come up with!
When you have a faulty part causing a bind it will destroy any disc you put in the car. You don't rip the center out of a disc like this car did and it be the clutches fault.
Broken bell housing could be an issue, it's definetly in the alignment of the trans to motor IMHO.
Like I told Rick at Synergy, I warrantied that disc to help you out and in no way were we (Monster Clutch Co.) saying that our disc being defective was the cause in that particular failure. You have other issues and they need to be addressed quickly.
Also, your flywheel is zero balanced, your pressure plate and disc are balanced within 8 grams and are not the vibration issue.
Let me know what you come up with!
Steve,
I want to thank you very much for your consistent help. You sent me an upgraded throwout bearing a couple of months ago to try to help with the bellhousing noise. It helped, but ultimately, it was not the cure.
Rick installed the new stage 2 disc along with a new bellhousing to replace my old cracked one. He also got a new tranny crossmember brace to try to help minimize any vibrations from the drivetrain that I had mentioned to him. He called me and said the car was ready to go, no noise coming from the bellhousing, silent. I went and picked the car up saturday and drove it home. There was absolutely zero noise coming from the bellhousing and the car shifted better than ever. Vibration was also lowered on the freeway. The car is a lot smoother.
However... today I started to notice that there is a "noise" coming from under the car (like I've heard every time this thing has chewed a clutch), which to me sounds like the disc is not spinning correctly (straight). I can "hear" the clutch spinning when the car is on and I put my head down to listen to it. It was SILENT when i picked the car up. The car now has about 300 miles on it. I can tell that something still isn't right. The underside of the car should be silent for the most part, yet I can "hear" the clutch spinning, I can hear it rotating. When I put the clutch pedal to the floor (in neutral) the noise gets quieter. When i take my foot off the clutch (tranny still in neutral) the noise from bellhousing gets louder.
Sorry for the long post, but I think I'm coming to the realization that the problem still hasn't been fixed. I really fear I will chunk my 2nd Monster. I want to stress that this is not a clutch issue. Your product is not the issue. Ultimately, this is something that no one has been able to diagnose...My baby will probably go up for sale.
#56
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I do not have a Tick adj. master, I have an adjustable master from someone else, I forget who. Rick @ synergy said he adjusted the clutch as best he could. He's a bit of a stickler about that, so i trust he did what he said.
#58
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It is not in the clutch if you can here it louder when the clutch is released. If it was louder when the clutch is depressed then it could very well be the through out bearing or even crank walk(only in extreme cases) It is possible that you are having issues with the bearining in the front case or even an issue with tolerences on the mainshaft. Check your transmission fluid. Make sure your vehicle is level and you are checking it in the plug that is on the top. Not calling you dumb but I have rebuilt transmissions that people checked fluid levels using the bottom hole. Also would like to know if the noise is louder when vehicle is cold or after it has warmed up. If it gets louder when warmer I would lean toards a bearing going bad. How many miles on the car and how many sice you purchased it. Could have been an issue before you purchased it. I would probably index your bellhousing as well. Sorry for so much info at one time but hopefully it will help.
..RJ..
..RJ..
#59
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^^Yea it could be an Input Bearing..
I'm still pondering the Input Shaft..SSI built some pretty fucked up Transmissions..are you sure it's not an LT1 Shaft?
It may sound far-fetched, but I wouldnt be suprised judging by what you are saying..
If you posted pics of it I can't see them..all pics are blocked out here..
I'm still pondering the Input Shaft..SSI built some pretty fucked up Transmissions..are you sure it's not an LT1 Shaft?
It may sound far-fetched, but I wouldnt be suprised judging by what you are saying..
If you posted pics of it I can't see them..all pics are blocked out here..