TanRchy

4th clutch on this bitch in less than 2 years.
Seriously need some help with this. Driving me insane. The car is a 2000 WS6.
mods in sig.
-1st clutch= LS7 = bombed it. hardly any abuse
-2nd clutch= LS7 = bombed it. hardly any abuse
-3rd clutch= LS7 with a Stage 4 Six Speed Inc. Tranny as well. = ripped out the center section in the clutch disc.
-4th clutch= Monster stage 2= Blew out the springs on the clutch disc. AFTER 1 MONTH
Each time I get a new clutch, I also get a new flywheel, new slave, new master, new pilot bearing, new throwout bearing. This last time I kept getting a high pitched whine that sounds like a dry bearing rub. I had my shop contact Monster and the owner of Monster was nice enough to overnight an "upgraded" throwout bearing, made of like steel or aluminum or something. No help. The noises from the bell housing sounds exactly like when you overload your washing machine and its going, "thunk, thunk, thunk." SO, I do the break in EXACTLY like they said, put about 1,400 miles on it, same ****. I was driving up North last weekend. Went to do a routine down shift to 5th from 6th and, no 5th. I was like, "ok maybe I accidentally tried to throw it in reverse. Tried to stick it in 4th..horrible noise and i had to force that **** in. **** not again. Pull off the freeway and the thing is done. Can hardly get it into gear, horrible noises.
I tow the car to Synergy Motorsports in Fremont. Rick tells me I "blew out the clutch springs from the disc." WTF. I have literally gone through everything with this car, I'm not on sticky tires, I don't do clutch dumps, I don't miss shifts and it never sees the track. Can someone give me any info. NO SHOP can fix my baby. I'll probably have to sell it. Sorry for the long post, but i wanted to make the situation clear.

Thanks
RJ

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Wow first monster I've hear of break. Are these clutches being installed properly? Because there's no reason a bolt on car should be going through those clutches with good driving.

demarco313

I agree.. Are these clutches being installed PROPERLY? Who is installing it for you?

TanRchy

the 1st was installed at Synergy. The 2nd and 3rd were @ a GM stealership. The 4th was installed by Scott's Shop in San Luis Obispo. I had them follow the instructions that Monster gave them to the T. He highlighted all the torque specs and everything. I want to stress it is NOT my driving. Like I said, No clutch dumps, no power shifting, no track, no sticky tires. This car EATS clutches for breakfast. I pray to god I blow up my 10 bolt, but nope, its another clutch. There are only so many parts down there. COuld it be my crank if off or something???

00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

something is deffinetly not right...the clutch shouldnt even be broken in during a 1 month time span much less fucked already....guys in my town have run stock clutches with daily abuse for 12k....u got a faulty part somewhere else

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Get rid of your 5" tach, should solve all your problems

Seriously though I would look into who is installing your ****. It's crazy for any clutch to die that quickly especially when you're replacing slave, mc, etc. every time

Something is seriously wrong with... something. Bent input shaft? f'ed up tranny? pinched line in the hydraulics? Get a Tick master and another Monster, then have it installed by someone who knows what the hell they're doing.

jmoody66

put a new clutch in it....take it straight to the dealer and trade for another one

TanRchy

Haha. I get **** for that 5" all the time. LOL. The input shaft has NO PLAY in it whatsoever. I'll try the Tick Master and move up to the stage 3 Monster, I guess. It's just, the clutch is not the problem and no one can figure out what the problem is. Synergy is good. Rick knows his ****. He builds full on race cars, so my little POS shouldn't be a problem. Does my crank shaft idea hold any water? Tranny is smooth as silk...

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Good idea I'm sure they'll have plenty 2000 ws-6s there

But seriously get a new clutch and take it somewhere that know what their doing. If you're replacing the flywheel too make sure the throwout bearing is not shimmed and check all your lines

TanRchy

Thnx for the tips. I'm calling Monster first thing in the morning and Rick @ Synergy as well. I'll talk to them about everything I can think of.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Hope it all works out for you. I would ask Steve at monster about it too he really knows his stuff and is really helpful

white ghost

iTrader: (1)

have you considered your input shaft? had a 04 cobra that trans and clutch went to **** because of a bad synchro in 3rd and 4th that was caused by a slightly skewed input shaft. just my .02.

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

If your input shaft is floppin around, it can tear **** up in a hurry. I'd get that tranny checked out. You've got something seriously wrong with that car, it shouldn't be hard for a good shop to find it.

TanRchy

I keep hearing people say input shaft. The input shaft had ZERO play when the tranny was just out of the car. Were there any known problems with the Six Speeds Inc. input shafts?? I have a stage 4 in that bitch, cyro'd and everything...

TanRchy

thnx for the tip. Keeping all that in mind.

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

You can have a bent shaft without any play. Though it doesn't seem very likely, at this point I would be looking at everything if I were you. I have beat the living **** out of my clutch for the last 10k mi. almost and it's still alive... something is very wong with your car.

TanRchy

Point taken. Thnx for the tip. Something is very wrong is an understatement.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Sound like an alignment problem or a bent input shaft.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I know this isn't relative to one of our clutch kits but I thought I would share a few thoughts on the matter in an effort to assist you.

1) Input-shaft play is measured is .001" increments. I would hope that the folks that checked the shaft for play would have done this with a dial indicator to insure proper assessment of the unit. If not, then have this done before reinstalling the transmission.

2) Are the dowel/alignment pins that help locate the transmission on the motor still in place? If not, it is possible that the transmission is being installed in a way that causes the shaft to bind leading to side-loading on the disc and ultimately premature wear?

3) It's been mentioned already but, have you checked the shaft to insure that it is true/straight? Also, have you checked the splines for excessive wear? Either of these issues could cause issues with the sprung-hubs.

4) When the transmission was bolted on did it seat fully? Or did you have to pull the transmission on with bolts? If you used the bolts to pull the transmission down then you could have easily tweeked the disc.

What happened with the 2 stock LS7 clutch kits? Were the hubs damaged with these as well? I am just trying to determine if the issue with these is the same as it was for the 3rd LS7 and the 1st monster clutch. There is no reason that you should be killing discs like this if there isn't another undiscovered factor.

I know you mention that "it isn't your driving" but I have to ask about what was happening (relative to use) when each of these clutches were damaged? Did each instance occur during a down-shift? What it a hard down-shift? Are you matching revs when you down-shift? Or are you simply selecting the lower gear and allowing the clutch to work out the rest? I have seen instances in the past where folks will down-shift in such a way that the clutch is effectively snatched apart. This generally affects the straps on the pressure-plate as well. Do you have any pictures of the parts, including the straps that connect the pressure-plate to the cover? Let me know and I will be happy to take a look at them. Thanks!!!

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

All the bent inputs I've seen created serious vibrations...even when the pilot bearing was still intact. Maybe an alignment issue with the trans to bellhousing or bellhousing to engine as was mentioned.

Even if the endplay of the input/mainshaft was a bit excessive, a new pilot bearing should pretty much keep that in check, and you've replaced those every time.