Spec 3+...Trouble getting into gear at high RPMss
03-28-2010, 10:21 PM
#41
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I think this statement keeps flying over their heads. So, I'll speak S-L-O-W-L-Y for them.
The clutch MUST be set up correctly. This means measure to see whether or not the clutch set up is dimensionally correct. You may not need the spacer & you made need a larger spacer, only measuring will determine this. Bleed the hydraulics correctly, no air.
Once the install is completed, test it's dissengagement by starting the car & pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, then put it in first gear & rev to 3000-3500 RPM. If the car moves forward, then the clutch is not fully dissengaged. This means shifting trouble will occur. So, then the installer must determine whether or not it's hydraulic or mechanical spacing related.
Aftermarket clutches can vary dimensionally from stock & the clutch spacing MUST be measured to insure correct spacing.
I don't know how the SPEC reps keep from slitting their wrists or @ the very least banging their heads against a wall. I have read far too many "trouble w/ my SPEC" threads that are nothing more than installer failure problems.
DIY clutch installers, learn how to install a clutch & don't jump to conclusions based on other incorrectly titled threads. I have broken a half shaft without my SPEC 3+ slipping & believe it or not, the clutch fully dissengages when the clutch pedal is pressed. Wow, how novel is that?
The clutch MUST be set up correctly. This means measure to see whether or not the clutch set up is dimensionally correct. You may not need the spacer & you made need a larger spacer, only measuring will determine this. Bleed the hydraulics correctly, no air.
Once the install is completed, test it's dissengagement by starting the car & pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, then put it in first gear & rev to 3000-3500 RPM. If the car moves forward, then the clutch is not fully dissengaged. This means shifting trouble will occur. So, then the installer must determine whether or not it's hydraulic or mechanical spacing related.
Aftermarket clutches can vary dimensionally from stock & the clutch spacing MUST be measured to insure correct spacing.
I don't know how the SPEC reps keep from slitting their wrists or @ the very least banging their heads against a wall. I have read far too many "trouble w/ my SPEC" threads that are nothing more than installer failure problems.
DIY clutch installers, learn how to install a clutch & don't jump to conclusions based on other incorrectly titled threads. I have broken a half shaft without my SPEC 3+ slipping & believe it or not, the clutch fully dissengages when the clutch pedal is pressed. Wow, how novel is that?
Oh yeah, I broke a CV joint with my SPEC. Doesn't mean its worth a ****.
Been there done that. Next.
Last edited by raven154; 03-28-2010 at 10:52 PM.
03-28-2010, 11:00 PM
#42
That cliche' went out in the late 80's. What's next, "outside the box?"
Measured what? What was the stock dimension from flywheel face to slave mounting surface? What was the assembled height of the clutch assembly clamped to the flywheel, stock, spec? Was a new flywheel used? If so, is it the same thickness as the one removed? How much did the throw out bearing engage the stock assembly, the spec assembly?
You screwed up the install which has improperly worn the matting parts & now need a new clutch.
"Next".....what a duesche bag statement. Good-luck, you're gonna need it.
I see that you've edited the statement. CV joints don't break unless their faulty or not lubed. In your case I'd say that it wasn't lubed.
03-29-2010, 05:16 AM
#43
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And CV joints do often break when you have a 4000lb car with 400hp and a weak rear end and weak axles.
03-29-2010, 06:54 AM
#44
This is why I've stayed away from the SPEC's... just too many threads of people having issues with them. It's happening too often for it to be install error. I mean I don't see other clutch companies with threads like these all the time. That says something...
03-29-2010, 09:30 AM
#45
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That cliche' went out in the late 80's. What's next, "outside the box?"
Measured what? What was the stock dimension from flywheel face to slave mounting surface? What was the assembled height of the clutch assembly clamped to the flywheel, stock, spec? Was a new flywheel used? If so, is it the same thickness as the one removed? How much did the throw out bearing engage the stock assembly, the spec assembly?
You screwed up the install which has improperly worn the matting parts & now need a new clutch.
"Next".....what a duesche bag statement. Good-luck, you're gonna need it.
I see that you've edited the statement. CV joints don't break unless their faulty or not lubed. In your case I'd say that it wasn't lubed.
Measured what? What was the stock dimension from flywheel face to slave mounting surface? What was the assembled height of the clutch assembly clamped to the flywheel, stock, spec? Was a new flywheel used? If so, is it the same thickness as the one removed? How much did the throw out bearing engage the stock assembly, the spec assembly?
You screwed up the install which has improperly worn the matting parts & now need a new clutch.
"Next".....what a duesche bag statement. Good-luck, you're gonna need it.
I see that you've edited the statement. CV joints don't break unless their faulty or not lubed. In your case I'd say that it wasn't lubed.
03-29-2010, 11:02 AM
#47
Yall ain't intellagence inough ta understood. So, I'm not waisting mure time on yall.
CV joints do not break, half shafts connected to CV joints & then differential parts break before the much stronger alloy inner bearing housing, bearings & outer housing of the actual CV joint will. Unless uf kerse some hillbilly added it as a swap & didn't get the IRS geometery correct.
You go ahead & keep the clutch for your own ***. It'll be a nice prop for yalls deliverance parties.
CV joints do not break, half shafts connected to CV joints & then differential parts break before the much stronger alloy inner bearing housing, bearings & outer housing of the actual CV joint will. Unless uf kerse some hillbilly added it as a swap & didn't get the IRS geometery correct.
You go ahead & keep the clutch for your own ***. It'll be a nice prop for yalls deliverance parties.
03-29-2010, 11:36 AM
#48
I have tried to provide info as best possible and I have offered to have you send the parts in for further assessment. I am not sure what more I can do. I understand Raven and max's frustration but it seems that they are under the impression that we just make guesses about building clutch kits and this simply isn't the case. We have been doing this for more than 20 years and have built more than 20,000 LS based clutch kits. We have a less than 1% return rate on all the products that we produce and there are countless customer, on this board that have had great success with our products. Does this mean that it's impossible for you to have an issue with a part? Of course not! But, that is why there is a warranty and an RMA process that allows us to check the parts out.
As for "slitting my wrists", the thought never crossed my mind. I like what I do, and I like the people that I do it for! I know that enjoying one's job may be a novel ideal these days but I assure you if I wanted to do something else I would be. Besides, where else would I have the chance to spend time helping folks like you on the boards, over the phones, and via email?
As for "slitting my wrists", the thought never crossed my mind. I like what I do, and I like the people that I do it for! I know that enjoying one's job may be a novel ideal these days but I assure you if I wanted to do something else I would be. Besides, where else would I have the chance to spend time helping folks like you on the boards, over the phones, and via email?
03-29-2010, 12:10 PM
#49
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I guess GM is run by a bunch of hillbillies then cause from the trans back, it's stock. How about you go get some seat time in a V and come back when you're not so ignorant about the subject.
03-29-2010, 01:27 PM
#51
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The only thing I havnt tried yet is vaccum bleeding, that next on my list of things to do in the next few weeks. ( Im not holding my breath on it solving my issue, but its worth a try)
If that doesnt work them I guess ive got to move on like other guys have and just go with a diffrent brand.
03-29-2010, 01:35 PM
#52
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I have tried to provide info as best possible and I have offered to have you send the parts in for further assessment. I am not sure what more I can do. I understand Raven and max's frustration but it seems that they are under the impression that we just make guesses about building clutch kits and this simply isn't the case. We have been doing this for more than 20 years and have built more than 20,000 LS based clutch kits. We have a less than 1% return rate on all the products that we produce and there are countless customer, on this board that have had great success with our products. Does this mean that it's impossible for you to have an issue with a part? Of course not! But, that is why there is a warranty and an RMA process that allows us to check the parts out.
As for "slitting my wrists", the thought never crossed my mind. I like what I do, and I like the people that I do it for! I know that enjoying one's job may be a novel ideal these days but I assure you if I wanted to do something else I would be. Besides, where else would I have the chance to spend time helping folks like you on the boards, over the phones, and via email?
As for "slitting my wrists", the thought never crossed my mind. I like what I do, and I like the people that I do it for! I know that enjoying one's job may be a novel ideal these days but I assure you if I wanted to do something else I would be. Besides, where else would I have the chance to spend time helping folks like you on the boards, over the phones, and via email?
03-29-2010, 03:21 PM
#53
Have you read any of my posts...ever? I am always willing to take a look at parts and I have said that more than once in this thread. I can't make it any clearer than that. I will tell you that we had an issue with a couple of the addresses on the website, apparently emails were not making it into boxes. But that has been fixes. I am on this site almost every day...if you ever needed to ask questions or request an RMA you should have let me know. My email and direct phone nuber can be found on every post I make...
03-29-2010, 04:52 PM
#54
03-31-2010, 08:45 AM
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So how do you check them? Do you spin it up say 6500 and bench check it? Like I said it does fine until you spin it up. It just locks me out at that rpm. The pedal is so hard at that rpm it's scary. When I push the pedal down in this condition it will not disengage the clutch at all and then I have to pump the pedal once the rpms drop back down. I know all that has been said before but oh well. I just don't want to pay to ship it to you just to ship it back and tell me there is nothing wrong with it.
04-01-2010, 08:13 PM
#57
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Im thinking of going with a LS7 kit, that pressure plate shouldnt give me any problems.
Spec rep if someone was to install my kit on a camaro, what size shim would they need?
04-08-2010, 08:54 PM
#58
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UPDATE:
Drilled the line, and the car shifts great again. :cloud9:
The stock line has a 1/8" opening at the end, but about 1 inch deep it has a restriction.
The biggest bit that fit throught the restriction was a 5/64", a 5/32" was the next size bit i had and It would not Fit.
So I drilled both ends of the hose. Was able to leave the master in the car and just remove the line . (Still not easy but not to bad )
Now im not sure why just the spec clutches on the CTS-V have the lockout issue at high RPMS like I had . Either the spec pressure plate is to much, or the other CTS-V guys with monster and LS7 disks dont bang gears as hard as me.
Here is a pic of the master just under the booster.
Below is a pic of the stock size inlet , on the right is the largest bit I was able to fit past the restriction. On the left is the 1/8" drill bit I used to drill out the restriction.
Drilled the line, and the car shifts great again. :cloud9:
The stock line has a 1/8" opening at the end, but about 1 inch deep it has a restriction.
The biggest bit that fit throught the restriction was a 5/64", a 5/32" was the next size bit i had and It would not Fit.
So I drilled both ends of the hose. Was able to leave the master in the car and just remove the line . (Still not easy but not to bad )
Now im not sure why just the spec clutches on the CTS-V have the lockout issue at high RPMS like I had . Either the spec pressure plate is to much, or the other CTS-V guys with monster and LS7 disks dont bang gears as hard as me.
Here is a pic of the master just under the booster.
Below is a pic of the stock size inlet , on the right is the largest bit I was able to fit past the restriction. On the left is the 1/8" drill bit I used to drill out the restriction.
04-09-2010, 08:39 AM
#59
Max, It seems that you have indicated that this was in fact a fluid flow issue...solved by the drill mod. I am glad that this helped your issue.
As for the shim for a Camaro, it is .115" where as the CTS-V shim is a .850" shim due to the use of the stock duall-mass flywheel.
Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
As for the shim for a Camaro, it is .115" where as the CTS-V shim is a .850" shim due to the use of the stock duall-mass flywheel.
Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,