tick master cylinder problem
tick master cylinder problem i have a tick master cylinder installed and it works great, BUT, there is an inch or maybe more of dead play at the top of the pedal that i cannot seem to get rid of.
suggestions for how to solve this???
thanks
tony
suggestions for how to solve this???
thanks
tony
I would try bringing it up so the clutch pedal is only slightly lower then the brake pedal then go from there. From what i have read on here that is the starting point for adjusting the clutch pedal.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 7
From: hattiesburg, Ms
You can pop the end of the sensor out for the cruise, has two peices that fit through where it holds it in. Squeeze them together then its out and you can adjust it.
The play in the clutch pedal is about the same on mine so i think its fine. I think if you twist the sensor in far enough that it will restrict the play in the pedal, I don't care enough to do it myself but if it bothers you that much then that is what i suggest to fix it.
Hope this helps man.
The play in the clutch pedal is about the same on mine so i think its fine. I think if you twist the sensor in far enough that it will restrict the play in the pedal, I don't care enough to do it myself but if it bothers you that much then that is what i suggest to fix it.
Hope this helps man.
yeah its pretty annoying.
i have the cruise control adjusted all the way out, and its still about 2 inches short of the pedal.
not too worried about the cruise, i can rig something up later. but would like to get all this free play adjusted out.
tony
i have the cruise control adjusted all the way out, and its still about 2 inches short of the pedal.
not too worried about the cruise, i can rig something up later. but would like to get all this free play adjusted out.
tony
Mine is the same way. I tried a mity vac thinking I still had air in the system, that didnt help. Now there is a noise coming from were my tc is, it sounds like fluid bubbling. I hope I didn't reverse a seal in the mc.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 7
From: hattiesburg, Ms
Good lord man you must have the pedal on the floor, mine is right at where the brake pedal is and its working great but to each his own. I really dont know what else you can do.
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nmass399,
with it adjusted that far out, how much play do you have before the pedal grabs?
what made you adjust it that far out? the directions tell you to adjust it all the way to the floor, and then lengthen the rod until the shifter will slide into gear. then go drive, and lengthen as necessary for high rpm shifts.
tony
with it adjusted that far out, how much play do you have before the pedal grabs?
what made you adjust it that far out? the directions tell you to adjust it all the way to the floor, and then lengthen the rod until the shifter will slide into gear. then go drive, and lengthen as necessary for high rpm shifts.
tony
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 7
From: hattiesburg, Ms
nmass399,
with it adjusted that far out, how much play do you have before the pedal grabs?
what made you adjust it that far out? the directions tell you to adjust it all the way to the floor, and then lengthen the rod until the shifter will slide into gear. then go drive, and lengthen as necessary for high rpm shifts.
tony
with it adjusted that far out, how much play do you have before the pedal grabs?
what made you adjust it that far out? the directions tell you to adjust it all the way to the floor, and then lengthen the rod until the shifter will slide into gear. then go drive, and lengthen as necessary for high rpm shifts.
tony
I will note that my clutch will not fully disengage and i think the cause is the quicktime bellhousing with the motor plate is a little longer than the stock one. This is causing the slave to not have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch thus needing a shim. Just a theory.
But i can shift like a **** at high rpm without liffting but its very very hard to get into reverse and not as easy as it should be to get into first.
