efizjb

iTrader: (1)

I know per the instructions it says to make rod as short as possible for a starting point. If I adjust both the helm and thread as far as possible on the master, my pedal is already all the way down on the stop? How can this even be considered the starting point?

I really don't care so much about where the pedal ends up, but my only fear is over extending the slave and damaging clutch, has this even happened to anyone with the tick?

Are most of you ending up with the pedal at same height as brake pedal at least for reference? Obviously all the tiltons have the same throw, so I dont understand why all the mystery of rod length, I would think the pedal heigth should be fairly the same for all?

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

When you mean all the way down on the stop, do you mean the pedal is sitting on the floor? I dont remember where the stop was. I just turned mine all the way in then made it longer till it went into gear smoothly. I really didnt care where the pedal height was, must adjusted till it went into gear.

efizjb

iTrader: (1)

correct, rod as short as it can be (both ends) the pedal is all the way to the floor, on the pedal stop, clutch switch fully engaged.

I know you start short and go from there, just suprised that when both ends are fully threaded in, that it is dead flat on the floor, figured that defeats the whole purpose of starting as short as possible

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I believe that is where mine was, its not pushing the clutch in. You will need to adjust it up until your pressing of the clutch pedal allows it to go in gear smoothly.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

the idea is to make it as short as possible so there is an equal amount of threads in both ends of the aluminum rod. That way, you will have the most range of adjustment. Just make sure that the gold threaded rod exiting the master isn't spinning as you're making your adjustments. A good starting point would be with the pedal about half way out, but its best to keep the pedal adjusted as low as possible to keep the stroke short for quicker shifting and to eliminate the possibility of over extending the pressure plate.

The pedal hieght won't be the same for all. A clutch that has difficulty disengaging with the factory master will need far more stroke (a higher clutch pedal) with our cylinder than a clutch that engaged at the top of the pedals travel with the factory cylinder.

efizjb

iTrader: (1)

Thank you Jonathan. That clears it up. This was an A4 previously, so I might not notice less throw than a factory cylinder, as I'm not coming from being used to it that way.

With them both being threaded all the way down, it was impossible to be a starting point, I wanted to be sure I din't have something wrong, or a rod that was improper length. Thankfully the turnbuckle spins easily when holding the threaded rod on the master. It would be nice if tilton machined a flat where the rod isn't threaded. Not needed when new, but might be nice down the line when adjusting.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Since the OP got a good answer and seems to be on the right path...I just wanted to ask a quick question. Since this is a pretty fresh thread on adjusting the TICK.

Ive read in a bunch of threads, as well as the directions for the TICK, about not adjusting the pedal out too far, so you dont damage the slace or PP. I think I asked this a couple times, but never got an answer, so Im asking again...it might help the OP too since he's obviously adjusting his now.

How do you know if you've gone too far? What are the signs of a damaged or over-extended pressure plate? Im guessing a damaged slave from over extension would just leak? Or not do anything at all due to blow seals. But how do you know if you've damaged your PP...what are the symptoms.

Im about to pull my trans to replace my autozone slave with a GM unit, and also inspect my clutch while its out. So if its a visual thing with the damage, I could use the info for when I mess with it.


Thanks!

J.

4SFEDSS

iTrader: (19)

I would also like to hear the answer to the above post, im afraid to go too far with the adjustment.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

See... not sure why the question never seems to get answered haha...

I did find an old post buried in a thread from John at Tick... Here's a quote from it.

Im starting to wonder if i might have screwed up my LS7 clutch...but my trans has to come out. Tired of trying to guess my way through it. Just going to dive in.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Not to hijack your thread, but I seem to be having an adjustment issue. I've adjusted mine over and over and it only seems to make things better for a short while. I've adjusted mine out real far and it's like it's "un-adjusting" itself. I know that's impossible, but I swear that I'll go out and adjust it out some more (where it shifts real smooth) and then it's back to being notchy shortly after... like a few miles or minutes later. I don't understand, and I can't seem to get an answer.

Has anyone else had a similar issue?