clutch issue?
clutch issue? well i bought a new slave from tick performance since my other one is broke (bleeder stem stripped out) and didnt seem to have any issues with the clutch before the replacement. Well i get it all installed and makes sure the trans has fluid all the way to the top of the fill hole and now i get a real bad slip 
. Not sure on what to do now the clutch is a spec 3 and has about 17000 miles but like i said before the slave swap it was grabbing fine. I also have a tick adjustable master cylinder and the install went fine the pedal feels good and clutch engages fine but slips pretty good especially in 3rd,4th, and 5th when you just apply gas. I have a feeling im gonna get alot of you saying i need a new clutch but just dont understand why all of a sudden. Also is it possible i got clutch fluid on the clutch and it needs to be burnt off over time? Any info on what to do would be great.
. Not sure on what to do now the clutch is a spec 3 and has about 17000 miles but like i said before the slave swap it was grabbing fine. I also have a tick adjustable master cylinder and the install went fine the pedal feels good and clutch engages fine but slips pretty good especially in 3rd,4th, and 5th when you just apply gas. I have a feeling im gonna get alot of you saying i need a new clutch but just dont understand why all of a sudden. Also is it possible i got clutch fluid on the clutch and it needs to be burnt off over time? Any info on what to do would be great. Looks like from what i was told that more than likely when my slave broke it got fluid over the clutch and when it started slipping and heated up pretty much destroyed my clutch. Not sure what else it could be since everything else with the clutch works fine like engaging and shifting.
Last edited by 2001z; May 13, 2010 at 05:28 PM.
Looks like from what i was told that more than likely when my slave broke it got fluid over the clutch and when it started slipping and heated up pretty much destroyed my clutch. Not sure what else it could be since everything else with the clutch works fine like engaging and shifting.
last time i replaced my slave, it slipped pretty bad until i bled it really good, and it quit slipping, yes i knowit goes against how the hydraulics work, but that is exactly what happened.
you can try bleeding it more
i dont think that is the problem, i have the same thing as you, and i am positive no brake fluid got on my clutch.
last time i replaced my slave, it slipped pretty bad until i bled it really good, and it quit slipping, yes i knowit goes against how the hydraulics work, but that is exactly what happened.
you can try bleeding it more
last time i replaced my slave, it slipped pretty bad until i bled it really good, and it quit slipping, yes i knowit goes against how the hydraulics work, but that is exactly what happened.
you can try bleeding it more
Last edited by 2001z; May 15, 2010 at 11:36 AM.
If you want to test the master out to see if it's ok and bled properly. Disconnect the fitting to the slave and try and press the clutch pedal in. Don't try to stand on it but you shouldn't be able to depress the pedal at all or very little if that. If it goes to the floor in anyway, bad master. If not then I would continue down the line to the slave. Which would then be the culprit as long as your clutch is good.
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If you want to test the master out to see if it's ok and bled properly. Disconnect the fitting to the slave and try and press the clutch pedal in. Don't try to stand on it but you shouldn't be able to depress the pedal at all or very little if that. If it goes to the floor in anyway, bad master. If not then I would continue down the line to the slave. Which would then be the culprit as long as your clutch is good.
Yes, I had a really bad run-in with hydraulic problems a couple months ago. Had my car shipped and the shipper's blew out my clutch and slave in the process. Used that method to find out my master was fine. Only to replace my slave to find that the clutch disc was blown out after the fact to make a long story short. But yes it does work. think about it, the quick disconnect is like a check valve. If it's disconnected, then it won't push any fluid through. Which in turn won't allow you to push your pedal down at all because there is no where for fluid to go. That means the master is holding pressure and working fine. If it is pushing fluid back into the reservoir, then you have a bad seal inside the master. Which means rebuild (if aftermarket) or buy new (if stock).
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well im pretty sure both of mine are good since the tick master cylinder is less than a month old(which worked perfect before the slave went out) and the Acdelco slave from tick was a matter of hours old LOL. It did fine shifting and whatnot just slipps then catches after a sec mostly in higher gears like 3rd and up when you put a load on it.
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Im having the EXACT same problem, just got a AC delco slave from Tick, installed it and now it slips. I have a spec stage 5 with about 5k miles on it so thats not the problem. everything was just fine, installed the slave (only thing i changed) and now it slips. its like the slave is a bit "Thicker". It feels like it did when i had the shim on there when i didnt need it. i drove it down my driveway and back, any throttle at all and it would slip. doesnt sound like an adjustible master will fix my problems after looking into it more...
Im having the EXACT same problem, just got a AC delco slave from Tick, installed it and now it slips. I have a spec stage 5 with about 5k miles on it so thats not the problem. everything was just fine, installed the slave (only thing i changed) and now it slips. its like the slave is a bit "Thicker". It feels like it did when i had the shim on there when i didnt need it. i drove it down my driveway and back, any throttle at all and it would slip. doesnt sound like an adjustible master will fix my problems after looking into it more...
Last edited by 2001z; May 15, 2010 at 09:15 PM.
Yea, the previous slave broke while driving, but no fluid was shot on the clutch. The new slave looked a bit "thicker" to me. plus the new style disconnect now sits so far in the bellhousing that i am unable to even disconnect it without removing the trans from the bellhousing... great.
Yea, the previous slave broke while driving, but no fluid was shot on the clutch. The new slave looked a bit "thicker" to me. plus the new style disconnect now sits so far in the bellhousing that i am unable to even disconnect it without removing the trans from the bellhousing... great.
I wish we could get someone from tick to chime in or someone that might could answer some of these questions before i go out and buy a new clutch. wondering if i should even buy the premimum package and get a new slave with it too. I just want to make sure i only have to drop my trans one more time.
My release point is at the very top of the pedal now. and it never fully engages the clutch. And the ring sits in the bellhousing, there is no way to get to it without seperating the trans and bellhousing. And for whats its worth, i drove the car home in first gear (broke about a half mile away) after the slave broke and there was no slippage.
My release point is at the very top of the pedal now. and it never fully engages the clutch. And the ring sits in the bellhousing, there is no way to get to it without seperating the trans and bellhousing. And for whats its worth, i drove the car home in first gear (broke about a half mile away) after the slave broke and there was no slippage.
Last edited by 2001z; May 16, 2010 at 11:46 AM.
My release point is at the very top of the pedal now. and it never fully engages the clutch. And the ring sits in the bellhousing, there is no way to get to it without seperating the trans and bellhousing. And for whats its worth, i drove the car home in first gear (broke about a half mile away) after the slave broke and there was no slippage.
i didnt compare my new slave to the old one, i just threw it in, my TO bearing was shot, but nothing happened to the clutch plate itself.
i got my slave from advance auto, and it had a "new design" disconnect, but it basically worked the same exact way as the old one, it just had some type of cotter pin on the fitting.
mine will also stop slipping after i drive for about an hour and a half, which tells me that something might be getting on the clutch plate, but im not losing any fluid, and i have checked numerous times, my flywheel is 100% dry with no oil leaks or anything else.
Tried bleeding it and didnt change anything at all.I have never had to bleed anything this much even when i replaced my master cylinder it didnt need this much bleeding.The only reason you should have to bleed it is to keep it from sticking and pedal feel im not sure how having air in the line would cause your clutch to slip?
If you want to test the master out to see if it's ok and bled properly. Disconnect the fitting to the slave and try and press the clutch pedal in. Don't try to stand on it but you shouldn't be able to depress the pedal at all or very little if that. If it goes to the floor in anyway, bad master. If not then I would continue down the line to the slave. Which would then be the culprit as long as your clutch is good.
? Im not sure who your directing this to. I dont have a problem with the clutch sticking or engagement issues so that test really wont help me none since both seem to work fine until it hits like 3rd gear or so. From my understanding once your clutch starts slipping and if you keep driving on it your clutch is pretty much screwed and glazed over enless you felt it and then parked it. Since mine is old im just gonna do a new clutch and get the slave that comes with there premimum package and just sell the new acdelco slave that i just put in. Not really what i want to do right now but i dont have time to play with all this and keep dropping the trans .