Quicktime bellhousing owners inside
Quicktime bellhousing owners inside I am about to drop my tranny cause im probably gonna have to change out the clutch......anyways, since its gonna be out , i wanted to go ahead and upgrade the bellhousing to a quicktime, my question is , are u still having to modify the damn thing to get it to fit right , i have read that its still better than the mcleod, but still dont want to have to grind and dick with it to get it to fit, please tell me they have revised it
I installed a Quicktime last winter. The only thing I had to modify were the two bolts at the bottom. I don't remember exactly why or what we did, but that's all we messed with. It fit perfectly and alignment was very good.
mine fit perfect,i had to take off just a little plastic shield or something on the bottom of the motor to make it sit nice and flush against the engine.Its real simple and you will see when you go to do it.And then make sure the bolts you use go into the engine enough,i think the bolts they give you might be a little short,but it does fit really well.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: hattiesburg, Ms
Mine fit good, except for the bleeder valve for the slave was sitting against the bellhousing itself, so i took it back out and grinded enough out of it so i could easily get a socket on the end of it. Test fit the bellhousing on the trans with the slave bolted up to see if it needs clearance, saves a bit of a headache. Yours might not need it tho.
mine fit perfect. only thing I did was grind a spot from the inner to the outer to allow the fluid to drain out.... other than that it fit with ZERO issues.
you do know you do have to grind the oil pan for the block saver to sit flush? make sure it sits flush.
you do know you do have to grind the oil pan for the block saver to sit flush? make sure it sits flush.
How did the motor plate hit the flywheel? What did you do to resolve it? I have both the quicktime and monster stage 3 waiting to go in this winter. Not really looking forward to a nightmare install.
The stock flywheel the part right around the inside is concave whereas in the monster one its out more. it would hit the motor plate when it spun. I just didn't use the motor plate. If need be you could probably cut the inside out more to not interfere with the flywheel.
The stock flywheel the part right around the inside is concave whereas in the monster one its out more. it would hit the motor plate when it spun. I just didn't use the motor plate. If need be you could probably cut the inside out more to not interfere with the flywheel.
1st is safety, the block plate is part of the containment system. It protects the back of the block and keeps broken parts from emptying out the bottom of the bell and probably adds some strength to the bottom portion of the bell when its all bolted together.
2nd is tranny to motor distance and how bringing the tranny closer to the engine could affect clutch performance and life. Most of the clutch mfg are recommending to measure before installing, but by removing the block plate (probably 1/8" maybe 3/16ths, I'd have to measure mine to be sure) you are bringing everything closer to the pressure plate which could cause the TOB to ride on the pressure plate fingers causing premature wear unless you account for this in some other way?
You'd be better served to modify the block plate to clear the flywheel and/or make sure the flywheel is correct for the application. Then be sure to measure for the clutch setup and shim the TOB as necessary, if at all.
Don't skip the block plate.
I definitely wouldn't follow this advice for two good reasons.
1st is safety, the block plate is part of the containment system. It protects the back of the block and keeps broken parts from emptying out the bottom of the bell and probably adds some strength to the bottom portion of the bell when its all bolted together.
2nd is tranny to motor distance and how bringing the tranny closer to the engine could affect clutch performance and life. Most of the clutch mfg are recommending to measure before installing, but by removing the block plate (probably 1/8" maybe 3/16ths, I'd have to measure mine to be sure) you are bringing everything closer to the pressure plate which could cause the TOB to ride on the pressure plate fingers causing premature wear unless you account for this in some other way?
You'd be better served to modify the block plate to clear the flywheel and/or make sure the flywheel is correct for the application. Then be sure to measure for the clutch setup and shim the TOB as necessary, if at all.
Don't skip the block plate.
1st is safety, the block plate is part of the containment system. It protects the back of the block and keeps broken parts from emptying out the bottom of the bell and probably adds some strength to the bottom portion of the bell when its all bolted together.
2nd is tranny to motor distance and how bringing the tranny closer to the engine could affect clutch performance and life. Most of the clutch mfg are recommending to measure before installing, but by removing the block plate (probably 1/8" maybe 3/16ths, I'd have to measure mine to be sure) you are bringing everything closer to the pressure plate which could cause the TOB to ride on the pressure plate fingers causing premature wear unless you account for this in some other way?
You'd be better served to modify the block plate to clear the flywheel and/or make sure the flywheel is correct for the application. Then be sure to measure for the clutch setup and shim the TOB as necessary, if at all.
Don't skip the block plate.
This is also true, I measured the distance without the block plate and got luckey since it was within half a millimeter of the stock bellhousing height.
