The motor was already out of the car getting replaced and I decided to have the clutch replaced with a new LS7 clutch and a GM Slave... Well, not only is the clutch engaging about an inch off the floor, but it's damn near IMPOSSIBLE to get the shifter into reverse. It's very VERY difficult to get the shifter into all of the gears, but it's down right impossible to get it into reverse. The installer suggested I pump the clutch about 10 times and try engaging then, but it's still impossible. I can pump the clutch about 20-30 times and I can barely get it into reverse at that point, but it will go.. eventually. The other gears are very "crude" when trying to shift into them. This is while the car is at idle and the clutch is just depressed all the way. What in the WORLD is happening here? Does the hydrualic system need to be bled again?

 

air is still in the system. bleed some more!

 

Without a bleeder... is there anyway to do so?

 

http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_proper...utch_info.html

Hope this helps

 

Bummer

 

Isn't there a self bleeder to buy to make this a one man job?

 

Has anyone tried the mighty vac procedure?

 

Two man job, very easy, just be patient and do it right, it will work.

 

i hope this is a lesson to anyone that is planning a clutch job and is not installing a remote bleeder. i bled my clutch 4 times in the past few weeks since my install to make sure i get every bubble out and its no biggy with the remote. getting all the air out makes a huge difference, especially after driving and rebleeding. i have no more notchiness going into third after the last bleed.

fyi I use a mityvac too.

 

I found the write up on performanceworks1.com... Will this be good enough to bleed thoroughly or is this more of a bandaid?

 

Try double checking your skip-shift and reverse lock-out solenoid connectors and make sure they are not reversed.

 

If those were backwards, wouldn't I NEVER be able to shift to reverse? Another interesting thing is when the car is running, the symptoms exist. When it's off, the shifting moves into and out of gears perfectly...

 

If they are backwards then the trans will still go into a few of the gears, but it won't even come close to going into the gears that are blocked out. A customer of mine (mail order T56 build) did this a few months ago.

 

Yet another example why I try to steer people away from the LS7. If you do a search you'll find a lot of info on this. It may not necessarily be air in the system, as it could be a defective pressure plate. The best tool for getting all the air out of the system is a pressure bleeder (not mighty-vac). This bleeder is about 60bux from motiveproducts.com It boggles my mind that most shops don't have this tool. WELL worth the $60, even if you are just a DIYer.

Good luck with it and hopefully it is just air in the system.

 

I still think the best tool for getting air out of the system is the cars clutch pedal, and a second person to activate it (including holding it down when necessary, and pulling it up with their hand if necessary) while you run the bleeder...be it the stock one sticking through the bellhousing, or a remote one if you installed it when you put the new slave cylinder in.

 

I will be the first to admit that I know NOTHING about how the internals and hydraulic system of a trans works, but can someone explain to me how ait in the hydraulic lines would affect the shifter's ability to move into a gear? I'm going to check the clutch master cyl. tonight. Unfortunately, I did not have a remote bleeder installed (I had no idea this would be such a massive issue), so if I have to I guess I'm crawling up under the car and using the stock bleeder PITA

 

Air in the hydros compresses causing your pedal to drop without pushing the clutch in. Without the clutch disengaged, everything inside your trans is spinning. Syncros weren't built to be clutches, only buffers to speed up or slow down the next gear you are going into.

 

After doing a bunch of searching on the net and Tech, I'm beginning to see the majority of people with the same symptoms are find something defective with the pressure plate or SAC(???)

 

Hydraulic fluid in a line is meant to act as an incompressible system. Meaning the fluid pushes against each other to act as if it were solid. If you put bubbles or air in that line, you would have to compress it more to get it to actuate whatever it was attached to. However, the amount you can compress is limited by your pedal. So, the bubbles in your system is increasing the amount of travel your pedal has to go to do the same thing. That's why you don't ever want air in your brake lines. You might push the brake pedal all the way down, but the bubbles make it seem like your only pushing the pedal a quarter of the way. Very simplistic explanation but I hope that helps.

 

im gonna say its easier to blame that the part they bought is defective than their method of bleeding or number of times doing it was insufficient. the fact is, the next step is to bleed it and bleed it well. get a power bleeder or mityvac and go to town. i would first stick a mityvac in from the top and let it put a vacuum on the system overnight and see what you get. we can sit here for months if you don't try anything we're not going to get anywhere.

im betting the farm on the hydraulics.