light weight flywheel
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: California
For street.
No cons unless you consider feathering the clutch on take off compared to idling away.
Pros, great throttle response and jake brake engine braking when taking the foot off the gas.
Look how many lightweight flywheels get sold vs. standard heavy units.
No cons unless you consider feathering the clutch on take off compared to idling away.
Pros, great throttle response and jake brake engine braking when taking the foot off the gas.
Look how many lightweight flywheels get sold vs. standard heavy units.
Pros: Less rotational weight, Revs quicker, good for auto cross. COuld be ok for a dedicated race car with a low race weight (depends on driver's ability)
Cons: Not street friendly, tend to put more wear on clutches, revs drop quicker. NOT optimal for 1/4mi racing for most cars. RPM drop is one of the bigger issues with 1/4mi racing.
IMO that was one thing I left in the car was a Steel FW only for the simple fact that I felt it was better for driveability and racing. Some people LOVE LW Fly Wheels, some cant stand them. Depends on what you can tolerate.
Cons: Not street friendly, tend to put more wear on clutches, revs drop quicker. NOT optimal for 1/4mi racing for most cars. RPM drop is one of the bigger issues with 1/4mi racing.
IMO that was one thing I left in the car was a Steel FW only for the simple fact that I felt it was better for driveability and racing. Some people LOVE LW Fly Wheels, some cant stand them. Depends on what you can tolerate.
I have a lightwieght flywheel and the only "con" that i could see would be that for awhile at least, you'll have to relearn how to drive your car. By that i mean it will take a little higher rev to get the car moving, and the rise and fall of the RPM's during shifts will be a little different. But i have loved mine. The car revs a lot better.
Another thing to keep in mind is that not all lightweight flywheels are created equal. I have the 18lb Monster option. Ive seen some 12lbers out there, those i can see being a little too light, but 18lbs seems to be right about where it should. especially when you consider that i have a beefier pressure plate so some of that weight is counteracted.
Another thing to keep in mind is that not all lightweight flywheels are created equal. I have the 18lb Monster option. Ive seen some 12lbers out there, those i can see being a little too light, but 18lbs seems to be right about where it should. especially when you consider that i have a beefier pressure plate so some of that weight is counteracted.
We offer both the 28lb and the 18lb with all Monster Clutches, and our Tick & Monster COMPLETE Clutch Swap Package, seen here for LS1 F-Body: http://www.tickperformance.com/ls1-f...-swap-package/
I generally suggest guys who daily drive or drag race their cars stick with the 28lb flywheel as it is the stock weight, so there are no driving style changes or loss of rotational mass (which is crucial to getting you out of the hole at the track).
I suggest the 18lb for guys who road race or autocross and need a little quicker RPM pickup off the corners. It does require some driving style changes, but most get used to the new way the engine revs (and comes down in RPM) fairly quickly.
I generally suggest guys who daily drive or drag race their cars stick with the 28lb flywheel as it is the stock weight, so there are no driving style changes or loss of rotational mass (which is crucial to getting you out of the hole at the track).
I suggest the 18lb for guys who road race or autocross and need a little quicker RPM pickup off the corners. It does require some driving style changes, but most get used to the new way the engine revs (and comes down in RPM) fairly quickly.
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Good points made in this thread, as you should always consider the overall weight of the clutch assembly not just the weight of the flywheel.
Vehicle weight and gearing are another thing to consider when choosing between a lightweight and standard flywheel, but I feel the biggest thing that can magnify the difference is the friction material of the clutch. As a grippier unit that is not as easy to slip is going to compound changes especially when coming from a stock clutch. Some people enjoy a challenge though, so there are different strokes for different folks.
Vehicle weight and gearing are another thing to consider when choosing between a lightweight and standard flywheel, but I feel the biggest thing that can magnify the difference is the friction material of the clutch. As a grippier unit that is not as easy to slip is going to compound changes especially when coming from a stock clutch. Some people enjoy a challenge though, so there are different strokes for different folks.
What is everyones opinion on the ls7 clutch kit combined with a RAM aluminum flywheel. WS6store has really good price. I just installed a cam in my Trans Am and the stock clutch is not holding up. I primarily drive my car on the street and will only see the 1/4 mile every so often. Stock rearend and stock gears. What do yall think?
Our Level 1 with our 18lb billet flywheel will be a lighter than that combo and won't be prone to any warpage of the steel insert. WS6 also has a sale on our clutches currently as well, if you have any questions don't hesistate. Chris, 817-750-2000
What is everyones opinion on the ls7 clutch kit combined with a RAM aluminum flywheel. WS6store has really good price. I just installed a cam in my Trans Am and the stock clutch is not holding up. I primarily drive my car on the street and will only see the 1/4 mile every so often. Stock rearend and stock gears. What do yall think?
