Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

I've been having an issue with the T-56 in my Z for the last couple of days. It started the other night I was driving home from my gf's house, roughly seven miles. I got to my road driving normal, went to shift into 5th and noticed a bit of notchiness. I pushed the clutch in and gave the car a rev and to my surprise the car pulled as if the clutch was not working. I gave it a few more tries and the car still pulled. I took the car out of 5th gear and went to engage 4th and I was locked out. I tried different gears and pumping the clutch, but I still could not engage any gear. Clutch pedal still felt fine, same pressure and feel I always have. I finally manage to put the car in 5th and baby it the last mile home.

Upon pulling into my driveway I tried to engage 1st, no dice. I shut the car off put it in gear, fired back up and it started pulling even with the clutch pedal pushed in. I get to the end of my driveway, pull it out of first and engage reverse, with no problem. No pulling in reverse, I engage 1st no pulling. I try all the other gears, goes in fine. I turned the car off pop the hood and check the fluid level, it was full, but it was also very dark.

The car is drivable, but I notice that it is notchy when going 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. Today I put it in 1st and revved it up to about 4500-5000, car stayed still. No creeping. I did however here a faint rattling coming from the trans. If i'm in 1st and completely stopped I can here a very faint rattle from the trans almost nothing. I know that the clutch is not fully disengaging at speed, but seems to be fine at idle.

I've driven this setup for about 30,000 miles with no issues. Monster Level 5 clutch, Tick built Stage 2 T-56, Tick Master and speed bleeder. Pedal is adjusted to just above the brake pedal. About 10 passes at the track, but almost all of the miles are from daily driving. Iv'e also noticed that when taking off in first gear the clutch squeals and chatters, I've had this issue before but a quick 1-2-3 wide open throttle hit usually cleans the glaze off and it stops squealing. I tried that but it still squeals/chatters which leads me to believe that the clutch is never fully disengaging and causing glazing. Should I bleed the system to get clear fluid and remove possible air? Does it sound like the trans needs to be dropped? Is there anything simple I can try to fix this? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry for the novel, I just don't want to to hurt the trans and synchros/gears which i'm sure this is affecting.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I would re word the post, add spacing, as no one likes to read block writing. That is #1.

2nd, I would do a clutch test to see how the clutch is functioning.

- Dead level flat ground
- Put the car into 1st, holding the clutch in, and engine running
- Rev to 5-5.5k and take notice IF the car moves AT ALL
- IF it moves, you have an issue. IF NOT then it could be something else.

But this is where I start in any Hyd. assisted car.

lunatikgixxer

If it does move what is the case there? I have a level 4 clutch and my car moves a tiny bit when i rev it up and its a pain in the *** to shift into 3rd at high rpms.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

First thing is to bleed the system and ensure there isn't any air in the lines that would prevent the slave from fully disengaging the clutch. If it still does it, then you're master cylinder could be getting weak and internally leaking. Rather than replace it with another stock one, you could upgrade to a Tick and have an adjustable unit as long as you don't mind a slightly stiffer pedal from the assist spring being removed. Either way you need to address this as it's not good for your trans synchros.

OP, give me a call and we'll go over a few things, it may be worn out. Chris, 817-750-2000

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

So yesterday I bled my hydraulics using my tick speed bleeder, I ran two bottles of 12 oz dot 4 through it. Everything is almost identical as it was before. I did the rev test again, and the car didn't move an inch, went up to about 5500-6000 RPM. If I shift overly slow there isn't much issue, but if I shift normal I feel the resistance and notchiness. Car will still go into gear on a 1-2, 2-3 shift at or near wide open throttle.

Chris, I already have the tick master you mentioned. I tried calling you just now, but it's 5:00 in TX so you might be busy closing up shop. Does anyone else have any clue what might be causing an issue only when the car is in motion?

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Okay so today I took the car up to Central Valley Speed and performance to see if he could tell me what the hell is going on. Drove the car around so he could feel the issues, came back and adjusted the Tick M/C up a little bit. This helped some, but there is definitely still something wrong. The grind is still there in all the gears when upshifting at 2500RPM and above. Downshifting its fine no grind, except for 1st gear sometimes.

I called and talked to Chris from Monster clutches and he said since the clutch disengages fully when stopped and does not creep with the rev test that it might be a bad seal in the master.

I called Tick to see if they have ever had issues with there Master, but the gentleman I talked to suggested I speak with Jonathan from Tick, who handles more technical questions. I left a message with Jonathan and have yet to talk to him. Im sure he is very busy and I'll receive a call when he has time.

I tried adjusting the master even more once I got home, but it had no effect except for the pedal being higher. I didn't want to blow the slave so I adjusted back to where we had it when I left the shop.

My question to you guys is have any of you ever had a Tick master issue? Do you guys think its the clutch assembly? There is no fluid coming from the bell housing so I'm pretty confident its not the slave. From what I know about these systems it has to be one of the three: Master Cylinder, Slave, or clutch assembly. Any experts out there with any ideas?

Wades SnS

iTrader: (2)

I to am curious to what the answer is for this one. I started with a mcleod mc and a ram clutch w no problems. the center broke out of it and I went to a mcleod twin disc. ever since I've had the same problem I cant shift at high rpms without waiting on the rpms to fall. I have tried everything from a spec 2 + disk im pressure plate to changing 2 an entirely different t 56. I've tried 3 dorman slave cylinders to gm slave cylinders. I recently added a tick master cylinder and went to silicon brake fluid. funny thing is I'm still having the same issues. So let me know when you figure this one out.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

throw out bearing

Blk98ls1

iTrader: (3)

Well adjusting my master seems to have helped. The problem is now very intermittent, but it still remains. Sometimes going from 4th to 5th and going from 5th to 6th. It is now much better than before, but still not 100%. I have issues with this since I want be able to just drive without being scared of a grind. I am currently in contact with Jonathan over at Tick via email and with his help I will hopefully be able to sort it out.

I did notice today that when I rest my foot on the clutch pedal and push ever so slightly I can feel the pedal lightly pulsing, almost unnoticeable. Maybe this is a clue. Whatever the problem is I hope I get it sorted out. Any help or input is still greatly appreciated. Thanks to all.

nmass399

Jack the rearend up on the car, fire it up have the clutch pedal pushed all the way in and put the car in first. Look and see if the rear tires start to spin any.

teddyca

iTrader: (37)

I am having very similar issues in my Z06 with my new Monster stage 3. Mine is 10X worse though. Car is not driveable. I dont know how the fbody is setup, but I am going to start looking at my linkage. Just a thought. You can read my thread here and possibly gain knowledge or advice?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-new-help.html

nmass399

One thing that is good to do that will tell you a few things, if you can get a veiw of the side of the clutch assembly in the car you can have someone press the clutch pedal in and out to see if the pressure plate is moving back and forth. If it is then look at the side of the disk and see if it is basically staying planted on the pressure plate. If the pressure plate is not moving enough or not at all to clear the disc then its gonna be either the slave or master cylinder or you may have some air in the system. If the disc is staying planted on the pressure plate then you have a bent disc. If it is none of these then your trans is the issue.

Normally i can see the side of the clutch assembly by looking where the starter contacts the flywheel or by taking the starter off and looking in. Depending on how tight the area is on the vette you might need one of the small mirrors with a handle on it and a flashlight to see.

teddyca

iTrader: (37)

Yeah for us the clutch assembly sits in the bell housing of the torque tube and the trans/diff are in the back of the car. I am pretty sure we cant see anything in there.

nmass399

you should still be able to see it through the part where the starter goes in because it is right there. You will only need to see just past the flywheel.

Kyle9100

iTrader: (19)

Any update on this issue?
I am having a very similar problem. I went to the strip last friday and on my second run I couldn't shift gears. Worked perfect the run before, but now I can't drive the car because the clutch will not disengage. Oh yeah I have a Monster stage 3.5 clutch, tick master and speed bleeder. I thought it was the slave so over the weekend I changed it out. There were no leaks and the pedal felt normal, but I changed it anyway. I still have the same problem. Spent over an hour bleeding the clutch tonight and adjusting the master cylinder and still the same problem.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Our master cylinders can wear out, but based on the description of the problem provided in this thread I don't think the master is the issue. There are two cup seals inside our master. If fluid leaks by the one closest to the front of the car the symptom would be hydraulics that would slowly bleed down under prolonged pressure. In other words, if you hold the pedal down for an extended period of time such as at a stop light the pedal would gradually lose pressure and the car would begin to roll. When this happens, a few pumps of the pedal should bring the pressure right back until it bleeds down again. Quick shifts would probably not show this problem.

With the first issue, there would be no fluid loss present. If the other cup seal leaks at the rear of the cylinder you would notice that the dust boot would become damp. This would be an external leak that would show up on the inside of the vehicle where the threaded rod exits the back of the cylinder. This problem would not create an issue with the function of the master cylinder until the fluid level was simply too low to operate properly.

To state that you have noticed a pulsation of the clutch pedal with light pressure tells me that you have a definite issue with the pressure plate itself. The problem could be a faulty pressure plate, or it could simply be loose pressure plate bolts. This pulsation occurs because the fingers of the diaphragm on the pressure plate are un-even. As the engine spins, the throw out bearing is constantly riding against the fingers of the pressure plate. This is because there is a large spring between the tob and the slave cylinder base which maintains constant contact with the pp and maintains the overall systems adjustment as the clutch components wear.

The fluid in the hydraulic system can't be compressed, therefore the pulsation you feel is the tob actually moving in and out slightly due to the inconsistent pressure plate fingers. A damaged clutch disk where the material is missing in one location (not worn evenly) could also cause the pulsation because the pressure plate wouldn't be able to clamp evenly thus causing the fingers to be un-even.

Basically, if you aren't losing hydraulic fluid and the hydraulic system doesn't bleed down with prolonged clutch disengagement you should look to the clutch/pressure plate. Theres nothing left to do but pull the transmission and inspect the clutch closely. A trashed pilot bearing can also create a lot of disengagement issues so check it and the throw out bearing closely also.

Jonathan@Tick

iTrader: (5)

Are you saying that the clutch will not disengage at all, or just not good enough to shift smoothly? I have seen aggressive clutches literally weld themselves to the flywheel/pressure plate after a hard launch at the strip on tires that hooked solid. I have seen two Tex clutches in f-bodies do this and a Spec 3 in a Cobra. The pedal would still feel normal, but the clutch would not disengage at all.

If your clutch/hydraulics do not feel spongey or mushy then you likely don't have an issue with the hydraulics or air in the system. Obviously if the system isn't moving the fluid properly due to air in the system or a faulty seal the pedal will feel spongy or will bleed down requiring the pedal to be pumped to maintain its function.