Tranny install PITA any suggestions?
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Tranny install PITA any suggestions?
Finally decided to install my monster level 2 clutch package this weekend and everything was going well until we went to stab the tranny back in.
The splines align and the tranny will slide in up to about a 1/2 inch from the bell housing and then we cant get the alignment pins to match up and slide that extra little bit!! WE have twisted and pulled and lifted and everything i can imagine to get it in but no luck. Even pulled it completely out a couple times and started over!
Any tips or suggestions for getting this bitch lined up would be appreciated, Im ready to test this new clutch and tick master!!
The splines align and the tranny will slide in up to about a 1/2 inch from the bell housing and then we cant get the alignment pins to match up and slide that extra little bit!! WE have twisted and pulled and lifted and everything i can imagine to get it in but no luck. Even pulled it completely out a couple times and started over!
Any tips or suggestions for getting this bitch lined up would be appreciated, Im ready to test this new clutch and tick master!!
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If the input splines are not aligning with the splines on the disk, put the DS in the back of the tranny and have someone rock the shaft back and forth while trying to push the tranny in. This will help align the splines. Also if you have a bunch of grease packed in the pilot, this will resist the input shaft from sliding in.
Last resort is use the bolts to carefully draw it in. Just make sure you go nice and easy and if you feel it starting to get solid, back off and regroup.
Last resort is use the bolts to carefully draw it in. Just make sure you go nice and easy and if you feel it starting to get solid, back off and regroup.
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Try to get at least all the bolts started and with a hand powered tool, work in a cross pattern to suck it up a few turns at a time. You will feel a pop and I bet it will slide right into place. Then you can tighten all the bolts up and roll on. This is a last resort process and I always discourage customers from attempting it unless they are in your situation and seem to have enough sense about them to not get stupid in the process.
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Try to get at least all the bolts started and with a hand powered tool, work in a cross pattern to suck it up a few turns at a time. You will feel a pop and I bet it will slide right into place. Then you can tighten all the bolts up and roll on. This is a last resort process and I always discourage customers from attempting it unless they are in your situation and seem to have enough sense about them to not get stupid in the process.
Im gonna give it another try this weekend if not one night this week, maybe starting fresh will help.
Its going in one way or another!
#5
I had this same problem... Never use the bolts to suck the tranny in! You risk tweaking the center hub of the clutch disc which can lead to warping/chatter, and pinching the needles of you're pilot bearing,(If you are using needles)... If you are using one of the plastic alignment tools that just might be you're problem... Those plastic pieces fit way too loose compared to the actual input shaft. A company named Quarter Masters sells a machined steel alignment tool that is exactly like a t56 input shaft...Hands down , one of the best tools I have ever bought!!! If that clutch disc isn't aligned just right with the center of that pilot bushing/crank, it won't go in without forcing it... Also, are you running an aftermarket bell housing??
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I had this same problem... Never use the bolts to suck the tranny in! You risk tweaking the center hub of the clutch disc which can lead to warping/chatter, and pinching the needles of you're pilot bearing,(If you are using needles)... If you are using one of the plastic alignment tools that just might be you're problem... Those plastic pieces fit way too loose compared to the actual input shaft. A company named Quarter Masters sells a machined steel alignment tool that is exactly like a t56 input shaft...Hands down , one of the best tools I have ever bought!!! If that clutch disc isn't aligned just right with the center of that pilot bushing/crank, it won't go in without forcing it... Also, are you running an aftermarket bell housing??
It is the stock bellhousing and I am useing the plastic alignment tool. I guess tearing it back down and re-torquing it all wouldnt hurt but at this point Im pretty sure the clutch is lined up....
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I have been a mechanic for a long time. As Dave-1970 said the plastic tool is junk. What I like to do is compare the space around the pressure plate with the disk. You can usually feel the differance. Make sure you compare 3 common places in td
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I have been a mechanic for a long time. As Dave-1970 said the plastic tool is junk. What I like to do is compare the space around the pressure plate with the disk. You can usually feel the differance. Make sure you compare 3 common places in the casting of the pressure plate.
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I have been a mechanic for a long time. As Dave-1970 said the plastic tool is junk. What I like to do is compare the space around the pressure plate with the disk. You can usually feel the differance. Make sure you compare 3 common places in the casting of the pressure plate.
#14
The last 1/4'' to 1/2'' was where mine was binding too. That is also the amount that the input shaft actually slides into the pilot bearing (roughly). You cant get "onto" the dowels if you cant get "into" the pilot bearing... Quarter Master part # 660090 may solve you're problem, or at least rule out a clutch disc alignment issue...
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The last 1/4'' to 1/2'' was where mine was binding too. That is also the amount that the input shaft actually slides into the pilot bearing (roughly). You cant get "onto" the dowels if you cant get "into" the pilot bearing... Quarter Master part # 660090 may solve you're problem, or at least rule out a clutch disc alignment issue...
I like the idea of the steel alignment tool but im not quite ready to drop 60 bucks on it yet
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well i realigned the clutch this weekend and the clutch and tranny are now installed and car is running.
Im still grinding gears going into second and fourth though. this doesnt happen all the time, only when I shift real fast, this is my third six speed f-body, i know im not shifting wrong! Could this be a synchro issue? or shift forks?
Ive tried doing some adjustment with the tick master but nothing seems to help, is it time for a rebuild?
Im still grinding gears going into second and fourth though. this doesnt happen all the time, only when I shift real fast, this is my third six speed f-body, i know im not shifting wrong! Could this be a synchro issue? or shift forks?
Ive tried doing some adjustment with the tick master but nothing seems to help, is it time for a rebuild?
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pretty sure I got all the air out of the system by bleeding through speed bleeder (submerged in fluid) and mityVac.
The grinding going into gear was a problem before the clutch and hydraulics swap as well
The grinding going into gear was a problem before the clutch and hydraulics swap as well