Low Clutch Pedal
03-12-2012, 11:34 PM
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Low Clutch Pedal Hey Guys! I have long been a curb side fanatic and just recently came across the chance to make a dream come true! I am now the proud owner of an '01 Trans Am WS6 (M6) with 60,000 miles on it. Everything I can see on the car is completely stock. The clutch pedal seems to have a lot of free travel in it before you feel tension. Also, the clutch applies very low in the pedal travel...literally as soon as my foot comes up, the clutch is applying. I was just wondering if this was normal to these cars or if I might have a problem?
03-13-2012, 12:18 AM
#2
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i thought it was normal intell i broke my 3-4 shift fork cause the master went out after beatin on it a few times. id get a tick master cylinder in there asap
03-13-2012, 08:38 AM
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The pedal should engage at the top of the throw. If the clutch is engaging as soon as the pedal leaves the floor board you have an issue. How does the fluid look in your clutch master cylinder reservoir? If it's dark you should replace it. Either use the turkey baster method or bleed the system using the bleeder on the slave.
The turkey baster helps gets clean fluid in the system but it's won't 100% replace all the fluid. You use a turkey baster or similar pipe/bulb deal and siphon out the old fluid until the reservoir is almost empty. Don't run it empty or you may get air into the line. Put new fluid in, pump the clutch 10times or so and the fluid will turn dark again. Repeat as necessary until you get nice clean fluid. Repeat a week later as more of the contaminated fluid comes out. Then repeat as necessary and check the fluid.
If that doesn't give you a good pedal feel back than you can bleed the system via the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Fbodies have an internal slave and it is inside the bell housing. Jack up the car high and on the driverside of the transmission/bell housing you'll see a metal line running into the bell housing. Just above that is a small opening. Just in there is the bleeder for the slave. IIRC it's a 3/8ths or 7/16th fitting. You bleed the hydraulics just like your brakes. Have someone helping you push the pedal down, crack open the bleeder, close the bleeder, pull the pedal up, add fluid as necessary. Repeat until you get nice fluid.
If that doesn't help then you have either a failing clutch master cylinder, failing clutch slave cylinder, or someone installed an after market clutch without measuring the air gap and the slave cylinder doesn't have enough throw to push the pressure plate and disengage the clutch fully. The later would be fixed with an adjustable master cylinder to get more fluid moving but if it's too far out of adjustment you can overextend the slave and pop the seal in it. If the clutch isn't the issue than I would replace the master cylinder first as it's easier to get to. To replace the slave cylinder you have to pull the transmission.
The turkey baster helps gets clean fluid in the system but it's won't 100% replace all the fluid. You use a turkey baster or similar pipe/bulb deal and siphon out the old fluid until the reservoir is almost empty. Don't run it empty or you may get air into the line. Put new fluid in, pump the clutch 10times or so and the fluid will turn dark again. Repeat as necessary until you get nice clean fluid. Repeat a week later as more of the contaminated fluid comes out. Then repeat as necessary and check the fluid.
If that doesn't give you a good pedal feel back than you can bleed the system via the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Fbodies have an internal slave and it is inside the bell housing. Jack up the car high and on the driverside of the transmission/bell housing you'll see a metal line running into the bell housing. Just above that is a small opening. Just in there is the bleeder for the slave. IIRC it's a 3/8ths or 7/16th fitting. You bleed the hydraulics just like your brakes. Have someone helping you push the pedal down, crack open the bleeder, close the bleeder, pull the pedal up, add fluid as necessary. Repeat until you get nice fluid.
If that doesn't help then you have either a failing clutch master cylinder, failing clutch slave cylinder, or someone installed an after market clutch without measuring the air gap and the slave cylinder doesn't have enough throw to push the pressure plate and disengage the clutch fully. The later would be fixed with an adjustable master cylinder to get more fluid moving but if it's too far out of adjustment you can overextend the slave and pop the seal in it. If the clutch isn't the issue than I would replace the master cylinder first as it's easier to get to. To replace the slave cylinder you have to pull the transmission.
03-13-2012, 11:38 PM
#7
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This thread will save you from the giant headache of bleeding your clutch the hard way, but it after you do it if you notice your pedal is starting to get low again it's time to replace either your slave or master cylinder.
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03-14-2012, 09:05 AM
#9
The GM master cylinder is junk, your problem seems to lie in the clutch hydraulic system and its more than like the GM master. I would suggest replacing it and try rebleeding the clutch. If I were you I wouldnt waste my money on a new GM master, you will eventually have the same headaches you are having now and you still wont be able to get those high rpm shifts
. Our unit is designed to flow enough fluid to the slave making the t56 able to shift at those higher rpms. Thats not the only upside to our Master Cylinder unit either. By this unit flowing more fluid it will eliminate the sinking clutch pedal case like you are stating. I would suggest one of our units that way you can have many miles of worry free shifting. Ive posted a link below to the unit that will fit your vehicle.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
. Our unit is designed to flow enough fluid to the slave making the t56 able to shift at those higher rpms. Thats not the only upside to our Master Cylinder unit either. By this unit flowing more fluid it will eliminate the sinking clutch pedal case like you are stating. I would suggest one of our units that way you can have many miles of worry free shifting. Ive posted a link below to the unit that will fit your vehicle. http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/
03-14-2012, 10:15 PM
#10
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Hey thanks Chris! I was actually looking into Tick's products and am extremely interested in the level 2 T56. Do you mind if I pm you some questions I have?
