importkiller_SS

iTrader: (35)

I converted from A4 to M6 previously and now i wanted to upgrade my master to the Tick master. Im in process of swapping the masters. There is a stud under the masters mounting hole. On the engine side the stud has a quarter sized "backing" that is interfering with the mounting of the master.

My question is, so i dont have to remove the brake booster and steering column, if the stud is pressed in or welded in? Just wondering if i could hammer it through from the inside of the car without screwing up the firewall? I dont have anything small or long enough to fit down to grind it smooth.

Thanks in advanced!

fastazzls1

you have a stock master in it now right?

importkiller_SS

iTrader: (35)

Yes the current setup, before this I ran into this problem, was the stock master

oldmano2z

i had same issue in my changeover. it's like spot welded and has to come out. i had my motor out when i did it.you could like i did and stack washers on stud put nut on and tighten till it breaks loose the tick covers most of the hole made. my motor was out so i welded the hole up. hope this helps.

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

When i did my change over, i just cut the stud off.

importkiller_SS

iTrader: (35)

Ill have to give that a try with the washers and nut until it breaks... when the stud broke did the tab on the engine side firewall just tap off easily?

It would have been nice when my engine was out to know this b was going to be an issue...
o well

oldmano2z

you can look at stud on firewall side and see 3 little indentations that look like spot welds.if my memory serves me i took a flat screw driver and tapped it between the firewall and the studflat. gotta kinda work at it. it was abitch with my motor out,but i'm fat,old,and slow so take your time as to not butcher firewall. if you are able to get a mig tip in there try to weld up. when i weld on car i always disconnect battery both hot and ground so as not to do something freaky with welding voltage backtracking to engine pcm .the 6spd will wake that bitch up!!

tazmo65

iTrader: (3)

I also did the conversion including the master. Just make sure you fab up some kind of stiffener to go around the hole you drill for the master or you may find the master will be pushed through the firewall as i did because the steel is very thin.

importkiller_SS

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for your help. I got it out of the way finally. Wasnt as bad as i thought.


I noticed how weak it is in that area and worried it will pop through. I made a thick brace for that area.
Thanks!

Norbit2

Were you able to remove this button cleanly? If so, what was the method you used? Thanks.

Norbit2

Any response to my last post?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

The thread is over 5 years old so I doubt the original poster can respond back.

I did not have any issues with a factory master cylinder when I did my swap

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Ok I found what you are referring to


Ok so I remember the clutch master alignment being a complete bitch. I don't remember how I killed that bolt. I had issues with it, it made the manual pedal not line up with the hole and symmetry of the master


I remember messing with the masters alignment quite a bit, and having to make all of the mounting holes and the big entry hole wider several times

Hell I might have made the holes slightly bigger to get the master to slightly rotate to fit past that stud


***edit****

Double checking my work my pedal alignment is way different. I remember now having this exact problem. What I did was ghost mount the pedals without the booster in to give me the best angle. The factory rubber cutout was not in the right spot in relation to that bolt, so I got my bracket clearance how I wanted it and then drilled the holes

I remember the master rubbing the large hole I drilled as well keeping it from coming all the way into the footwear area, I also had to make the hole more oval so the master came further into the cabin. I wanted every inch of pedal travel to be used inside the cabin by the pedal, so I made that center large hole more oblong

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, you guys who are having problems with the clutch MC hitting the back of that stud in the engine bay have mounted your MC too low. I just did this, and it should be near the top of that plastic liner cutout. I suggest you make a template before you cut.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I agree that's the most likely issue. I've done the swap twice and never had an issue, using a stock MC and then a McLeod.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I can't remember why, but the pedals didn't match up for the rubber under matt to the firewall. I dont thunk the trans swap thread ever discussed it, but the pedals for the m6 don't line up correctly to the firewall to just tap a perfectly circle hole

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

My pedals matched perfectly. The support brace for the clutch, which is part of the pedal bracket, is quite flexible side-to-side, so it can get tweaked in the transfer between cars. I had to bend mine a little bit to the right to line up with the plastic liner cutout area. It took the force of tightening the nuts to get it to sit flat against the firewall, but it really wasn't much effort.

Before drilling the pilot holes for the MC U-bolt, I halfway installed the pedals, then bent that support brace to the right. While I was still holding it in place (it will want to spring back to the left) I marked the holes with a Sharpie. Then I made a template and made sure that the template fit the MC before tracing and cutting out the large hole.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

If the bottom of your M6 pedal bracket touches the empty stud then your slave is touching the back side nub of that stud. The tick master wouldn't fit if you ever tried to upgrade. It also can crack your firewall if the slave isn't fully seated to the back side like in my image heavy response.