T56 experts needed
T56 experts needed What is the secret to removing the two Torx bolts on the top of the case (the ones that hold the shift rail guide)? I have twisted up two torx bits without budging either one.
Originally Posted by black94z
They suck, you need a good torx bit. i use a bit from MAC tools, but i broke it last time i took mine apart.. If i knew a company that made good bits i'd tell ya but i have the same problem myself...
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
There is Loc-Tite on the bolts, the way I got mine out the first time was to have 2 people help, one to hold the tranny still, one to tap on the breaker bar with the torx bit, keeping it firmly seated, and me pulling on the breaker bar to finally get them loose. If you're really having alot of trouble with them, you can also carefully heat them up just a little with a torch to "unglue" the Loc-Tite. Hope this helps, oh and also, a good investment is in a really good set of Torx bits for things like this. You'll just keep snapping off the cheap ones and or ruin the head of your bolts. Keep the cheap ones for simple projects.
I've got a torch and thought of that, but I think I still need a good bit. I don't know where to find Mac tools, or even Snap On today. I've never heard of Allen brand tools or Torx Plus.
Thanks for all the help. I understand the problem now.
Side note: It has been many years since I was inside a T10 or Muncie, but I am impressed with the size of the gears and synchros in the T56. It seems pretty beefy to me.
Thanks for all the help. I understand the problem now.
Side note: It has been many years since I was inside a T10 or Muncie, but I am impressed with the size of the gears and synchros in the T56. It seems pretty beefy to me.
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I just used a regular Craftsman Torx bit with little problem 3/8 drive. It wouldn't budge so I just pushed down hard on the top of the rachet and hit the handle with a block of wood. After about 3-4 good cracks on it the bolt moved enough that I could turn it by hand.
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Heating with a torch is the ONLY easy method.
Sometimes they come out by hand, with significant force.
Sometimes they don't. Only with the torch. Make the loctite bubble. This makes them come out easily when the loctite is hot (warning, it's HOT
).
I have ruined at least 5 T40 bits on those bolts. I usually write off one per tranny I rebuild.
AutoZone has some decent (the more expensive, about $5 ea) T40 bits - with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. (ahem)
On my first tranny rebuild (my own), I boogered one of those bolts so bad that I had to have a nut welded on top of it - to get a socket wrench on it - to take it out.
Sometimes they come out by hand, with significant force.
Sometimes they don't. Only with the torch. Make the loctite bubble. This makes them come out easily when the loctite is hot (warning, it's HOT
).I have ruined at least 5 T40 bits on those bolts. I usually write off one per tranny I rebuild.
AutoZone has some decent (the more expensive, about $5 ea) T40 bits - with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. (ahem)
On my first tranny rebuild (my own), I boogered one of those bolts so bad that I had to have a nut welded on top of it - to get a socket wrench on it - to take it out.
Originally Posted by kossuth
I just used a regular Craftsman Torx bit with little problem 3/8 drive. It wouldn't budge so I just pushed down hard on the top of the rachet and hit the handle with a block of wood. After about 3-4 good cracks on it the bolt moved enough that I could turn it by hand.
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
Heating with a torch is the ONLY easy method.
Sometimes they come out by hand, with significant force.
Sometimes they don't. Only with the torch. Make the loctite bubble. This makes them come out easily when the loctite is hot (warning, it's HOT ).
I have ruined at least 5 T40 bits on those bolts. I usually write off one per tranny I rebuild.
AutoZone has some decent (the more expensive, about $5 ea) T40 bits - with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. (ahem)
On my first tranny rebuild (my own), I boogered one of those bolts so bad that I had to have a nut welded on top of it - to get a socket wrench on it - to take it out.
Sometimes they come out by hand, with significant force.
Sometimes they don't. Only with the torch. Make the loctite bubble. This makes them come out easily when the loctite is hot (warning, it's HOT
).I have ruined at least 5 T40 bits on those bolts. I usually write off one per tranny I rebuild.
AutoZone has some decent (the more expensive, about $5 ea) T40 bits - with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. (ahem)
On my first tranny rebuild (my own), I boogered one of those bolts so bad that I had to have a nut welded on top of it - to get a socket wrench on it - to take it out.
As the loctite cools, the bolt gets harder to turn. I usually do it at my buddy's shop (he has Oxy/Acet tanks there, I don't have tanks at my house any more). He hits it with the torch, and as soon as he turns away, I'm on it with a breaker bar / torx bit. Carefully on it tho.
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
As the loctite cools, the bolt gets harder to turn. I usually do it at my buddy's shop (he has Oxy/Acet tanks there, I don't have tanks at my house any more). He hits it with the torch, and as soon as he turns away, I'm on it with a breaker bar / torx bit. Carefully on it tho.
