just finished M6 swap-won't go in gear
05-05-2012, 01:25 PM
#1
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just finished M6 swap-won't go in gear So I just finished my A4-M6 swap and I tried to put the car into gear while it was running with the wheels on the ground and I couldn't put it into any gear.
I am waiting for my Tick MC but they're on backorder for 2 weeks. I have a LS7 clutch, brand new stock master and slave, I installed a shim for a total of 1/8" clearance when slave is bottomed out. My clutch pedal is alot lower than the brake pedal (~2" lower). Is there anything I can do to get my car working now?? Or do I have to wait till I get the Tick MC? Did I maybe install something wrong? Please help.
I am waiting for my Tick MC but they're on backorder for 2 weeks. I have a LS7 clutch, brand new stock master and slave, I installed a shim for a total of 1/8" clearance when slave is bottomed out. My clutch pedal is alot lower than the brake pedal (~2" lower). Is there anything I can do to get my car working now?? Or do I have to wait till I get the Tick MC? Did I maybe install something wrong? Please help. 
05-06-2012, 09:07 AM
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Ok I'll pick up a mityvac and bleed some more. It just seems weird since my pedal feels pretty hard and returns right away. I didn't think that would mean it needs to be bled some more.
05-06-2012, 02:09 PM
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I used a shim because when I measured the total clearance when the slave is compressed, it was larger then 1/8". I was told 1/16" - 1/8" is ideal.
Does it make sence that my pedal is still fairly hard and I just need to bleed it more?
05-06-2012, 04:37 PM
#6
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...utch-shim.html
It appears that shims are needed for some aftermarket clutches.
The geometry and dimensions are sometimes different.
There really is no reason for a stock clutch to need a shim because the stack height should usually be more consistant. With that said the slave was designed around the stock Luk clutches. So was the master for that matter.
Even with the correct stack height... anything other than the stock LS1 or LS6 clutch usually has disengagement and peddle issues. This isn't because of dimensions, it's because the stock master cylinder is to weak to disengage most clutches with higher pressure.
The Tick m/c is a breath of fresh air. Thier billet bracket fitted to a Tilton cylinder is just what we needed.
After being plagued with clutch issues for years it seems Tick was aware of the inherent hydraulic weakness and came up with a solution.
The geometry and dimensions are sometimes different.
There really is no reason for a stock clutch to need a shim because the stack height should usually be more consistant. With that said the slave was designed around the stock Luk clutches. So was the master for that matter.
Even with the correct stack height... anything other than the stock LS1 or LS6 clutch usually has disengagement and peddle issues. This isn't because of dimensions, it's because the stock master cylinder is to weak to disengage most clutches with higher pressure.
The Tick m/c is a breath of fresh air. Thier billet bracket fitted to a Tilton cylinder is just what we needed.
After being plagued with clutch issues for years it seems Tick was aware of the inherent hydraulic weakness and came up with a solution.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ic-spacer.html
05-07-2012, 09:07 PM
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I too have my concerns about this. I am having my tranny rebuilt at the moment but I noticed the clutch pedal is about 1/4" lower than the brake pedal. I measured a M6 car quite extensively to make sure I got the holes in the right spot but I still have my worries. I had a 6 speed car before and I know where the clutch pedal is supposed to be at but it just seems a bit low. I don't even have any pressure on it yet since the tranny is still missing but I'm talking about when the shaft on the MC is all the way extended. If I disconnect the MC shaft, I can get the pedal about even with the brake pedal. Should I re drill the holes till I get it even with the brake pedal or just leave it alone and see what happens? Also, if you have your flywheel turned, shouldn't you have to shim the slave regardless of what clutch you use?
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05-07-2012, 11:07 PM
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I too have my concerns about this. I am having my tranny rebuilt at the moment but I noticed the clutch pedal is about 1/4" lower than the brake pedal. I measured a M6 car quite extensively to make sure I got the holes in the right spot but I still have my worries. I had a 6 speed car before and I know where the clutch pedal is supposed to be at but it just seems a bit low. I don't even have any pressure on it yet since the tranny is still missing but I'm talking about when the shaft on the MC is all the way extended. If I disconnect the MC shaft, I can get the pedal about even with the brake pedal. Should I re drill the holes till I get it even with the brake pedal or just leave it alone and see what happens? Also, if you have your flywheel turned, shouldn't you have to shim the slave regardless of what clutch you use?
05-08-2012, 06:28 AM
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In my experience, turning the flywheel didnt make enough difference in the measurements I took to check for shimming. They don't take enough material off to make that big of a difference. The only time I could see it being an issue is if you have had your flywheel turned several times, if that's even possible.
05-08-2012, 11:32 AM
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05-14-2012, 01:28 PM
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I got the mityvac from Grainger, thru my work. It didn't pull any air out. I think my master is F*&ked!! I think the master isn't travelling the full distance and giving me a huge PITA! The clutch pedal is 2" lower than the brake and it's a brand new unit from GM. My tick master is gonna be here this week hopefully. This should solve my issues I hope.
05-14-2012, 10:57 PM
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Is your LS7 clutch new? If not, you may experience some engagement problems with a used clutch setup and the Tick MC if the LS7 was broken in on a stock MC. I am going through this right now and ended up ordering a Monster Lvl 2. The fingers on the self adjusting pressure plate in the LS7 adjust to the fluid flow and when you put in another master that changes the fluid flow like the Tick, you have engagement issues. If you stay with the same type of master (stock to stock or Tick to Tick), you will be fine.
My problems haven't been horrible. More annoying than anything; it is hard to shift at high rpm and it doesn't go into gear as easily as it should sometimes. I've bled the system twice so I don't think it's that.
My problems haven't been horrible. More annoying than anything; it is hard to shift at high rpm and it doesn't go into gear as easily as it should sometimes. I've bled the system twice so I don't think it's that.
05-15-2012, 05:56 AM
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I used a stock LS1 master and but it was brand new and the slave happened to be brand new too with no fluid in either but after about 1000 pumps and bleeding it like 15 times, all is good. That's just my experience. I actually think it went a little TOO smooth 
05-21-2012, 07:04 PM
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Beedo:
Yes the tick master cylinder fixed the problem!! What a great product, Tick! I had to set the pedal so that it's almost flush with the brake pedal and it works great. Not sure why the stock MC doesn't come all the way up on swapped cars?? Don't know if anyone else had this problem. The only thing that sucks is you gotta buy the stock MC for the resivoir and hose.
Tip: bench bleed the **** outta the master before installing in the car. Makes it way easier to bleed the remaining air out of the slave. It took me like an hour with a mityvac out of the car.
Yes the tick master cylinder fixed the problem!! What a great product, Tick! I had to set the pedal so that it's almost flush with the brake pedal and it works great. Not sure why the stock MC doesn't come all the way up on swapped cars?? Don't know if anyone else had this problem. The only thing that sucks is you gotta buy the stock MC for the resivoir and hose.
Tip: bench bleed the **** outta the master before installing in the car. Makes it way easier to bleed the remaining air out of the slave. It took me like an hour with a mityvac out of the car.
05-21-2012, 08:55 PM
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My stock everything is working fine. It took 15 times bleeding it traditionally but it's right where it should be with no problems at all. It's stupidly faster than it was as an auto, otherwise no difference whatsoever
