Prothane vs. ES trans mount
#1
Prothane vs. ES trans mount
I searched tonight but didn't find the answer I was looking for. I remember reading a while back that the Prothane trans mount had less NVH than the Energy Suspension mount.
When I did my H/C/I/E install a while back I installed ES poly engine mounts and trans mount.
I have a vibration at 2000-2500 rpms. It does it in neutrul(6 speed car)and going down the road. When driving I can feel when I hit 2000 rpm.
I have a SLP underdrive pulley and Monster 3.5 clutch, well I did have a Monster 3.5 clutch until I killed it.
I figured my vibration was from
1. SLP U/D pulley, even though I've never read any problems with them as compared to other U/D pullies.
2. The clutch assembly I had wasn't balanced correctly.
3. Poly engine mounts
4. Poly trans mount
5. Combination of 3 & 4
The trans is out right now due to the as for mentioned clutch dying. I will be getting a new Monster stage 2 clutch here soon and I'm thinking about replacing the ES trans mount with a Prothane.
I did use the shim included with the E/S mount. As best as I can remember, the ES mount itself was not as tall as the stock mount. With the shim installed they were the same height.
I'm going to have the driveshaft balanced while its out. However I don't think that is the problem because it does it in neutral. You can feel it through the entire car. It's kinda of a pulsation if that makes sense.
I don't believe its engine related, I've replaced the plugs and wires and its still there. No misfires that I can see on the scanner.
Without knowing exactly what problems/NVH the poly mounts cause, I'm can only guess thats my problem.
Thanks for any help.
J
When I did my H/C/I/E install a while back I installed ES poly engine mounts and trans mount.
I have a vibration at 2000-2500 rpms. It does it in neutrul(6 speed car)and going down the road. When driving I can feel when I hit 2000 rpm.
I have a SLP underdrive pulley and Monster 3.5 clutch, well I did have a Monster 3.5 clutch until I killed it.
I figured my vibration was from
1. SLP U/D pulley, even though I've never read any problems with them as compared to other U/D pullies.
2. The clutch assembly I had wasn't balanced correctly.
3. Poly engine mounts
4. Poly trans mount
5. Combination of 3 & 4
The trans is out right now due to the as for mentioned clutch dying. I will be getting a new Monster stage 2 clutch here soon and I'm thinking about replacing the ES trans mount with a Prothane.
I did use the shim included with the E/S mount. As best as I can remember, the ES mount itself was not as tall as the stock mount. With the shim installed they were the same height.
I'm going to have the driveshaft balanced while its out. However I don't think that is the problem because it does it in neutral. You can feel it through the entire car. It's kinda of a pulsation if that makes sense.
I don't believe its engine related, I've replaced the plugs and wires and its still there. No misfires that I can see on the scanner.
Without knowing exactly what problems/NVH the poly mounts cause, I'm can only guess thats my problem.
Thanks for any help.
J
#3
11 Second Club
Im with the guy above me. With the poly motor mounts you dont need the poly trans mount. The poly motor mounts dont let things move at all and when i had the poly trans mount all i had was vibration. Stock mount made all of that go away...even in my high powered car i have no worries
#4
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Prothane, it's a little easier on the car, and you don't have to worry about any preload plate crap. Prothanes are more precise to the stock mount size.
I believe in poly trans mounts, but many do not. The reason everyone hates them is because at first they create vibrations, but they DO soften up after some driving (I noticed mine soften up maybe 2 weeks of light driving). I have NONE of the initial vibes I had when I first installed it. If you put one in, give it time to soften up, it will. I like them because they keep the shifter firm in place, which to me, improves my shifting.
By the way, you will still feel an out of balance driveshaft in neutral.
I'm chasing a new vibration that happened after I broke my stock driveshaft. I've narrowed it down to the tailshaft bushing, which I have ready to replace, I'm just waiting for a good time to do the work!
I believe in poly trans mounts, but many do not. The reason everyone hates them is because at first they create vibrations, but they DO soften up after some driving (I noticed mine soften up maybe 2 weeks of light driving). I have NONE of the initial vibes I had when I first installed it. If you put one in, give it time to soften up, it will. I like them because they keep the shifter firm in place, which to me, improves my shifting.
By the way, you will still feel an out of balance driveshaft in neutral.
I'm chasing a new vibration that happened after I broke my stock driveshaft. I've narrowed it down to the tailshaft bushing, which I have ready to replace, I'm just waiting for a good time to do the work!
#6
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I believe in poly trans mounts, but many do not. The reason everyone hates them is because at first they create vibrations, but they DO soften up after some driving (I noticed mine soften up maybe 2 weeks of light driving). I have NONE of the initial vibes I had when I first installed it. If you put one in, give it time to soften up, it will. I like them because they keep the shifter firm in place, which to me, improves my shifting.
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#9
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I have a vibration at 2000-2500 rpms. It does it in neutrul(6 speed car)and going down the road. When driving I can feel when I hit 2000 rpm.
I figured my vibration was from
1. SLP U/D pulley, even though I've never read any problems with them as compared to other U/D pullies.
2. The clutch assembly I had wasn't balanced correctly.
3. Poly engine mounts
4. Poly trans mount
5. Combination of 3 & 4
I figured my vibration was from
1. SLP U/D pulley, even though I've never read any problems with them as compared to other U/D pullies.
2. The clutch assembly I had wasn't balanced correctly.
3. Poly engine mounts
4. Poly trans mount
5. Combination of 3 & 4
I did use the shim included with the E/S mount. As best as I can remember, the ES mount itself was not as tall as the stock mount. With the shim installed they were the same height.
Start by shimming the crossmember lower with washers and longer bolts. If resolved, shop for a lower height mount using the above thread link.
With regard to durability of the trans. mount and NVH, get the torque arm off the tailhousing and onto a non-stock or modified crossmember. Then you'll have a quieter car that's durable. The rubber mounts last a long time in cars without torque arms.
#11
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I don't think so. This thread is interesting, since the 1108 is so widely distributed, I didn't know about the others: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ans-mount.html
#13
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When you use the ES tranny mounts, you can't use the metal plate with them. From what I've seen on here and my personal experience, Prothane is the go-to tranny mount for poly 100%, the ES always ends up being crap.
But in the end the OEM rubber style tranny mount is the best bet. I've never killed one and a fresh rubber mount works great with no vib issues. I get mine from Napa for around 10 bucks. I can get you a part number if you want it
But in the end the OEM rubber style tranny mount is the best bet. I've never killed one and a fresh rubber mount works great with no vib issues. I get mine from Napa for around 10 bucks. I can get you a part number if you want it
#15
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One sec I'll get the part number for you.. I'll get a pic too.
Yeah I was surprised, it's a really nice piece too, very stiff. I have a NAPA warehouse right up the street for me so they have everything.. IIRC it was like $9 and some change.
Yeah I was surprised, it's a really nice piece too, very stiff. I have a NAPA warehouse right up the street for me so they have everything.. IIRC it was like $9 and some change.
#19
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Sorry I can't take a measurement, but I got it put in today and it's great! My rubber mount was cracked and pretty worn, this one totally got rid of all the shifter rattle and noise I was having letting the clutch out shifting to first. I though it was something the previous owner messed up when he put the new clutch in, but it was just a sloppy mount. I'm happy
Also put my founders poly LCA's and panhard in, Bilstein shocks and BMR lowering springs. I got both founders pieces brand new for 50 bucks off craigslist :O and pulled the shocks/struts off my 383 car, they are still brand new. Great, great, great improvement.
Also put my founders poly LCA's and panhard in, Bilstein shocks and BMR lowering springs. I got both founders pieces brand new for 50 bucks off craigslist :O and pulled the shocks/struts off my 383 car, they are still brand new. Great, great, great improvement.
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Just wanted to jump in here. I have the ES trans mount on an M6 and read about all the NVH issues people seemed to have. Before I put it in, I ground the two bumps down on the mount itself, KEPT the preload plate (some people say to throw it away) and installed it. Getting on the highway for the first time and bringing it up to speed, everything rattled--rearview mirror, change in the cupholder, the seat, my teeth. I thought I had something out of balance. I kept driving it and, just like others have said, about 2 weeks later it went away. From my experience and those that have stuck with the polys for a while instead of jumping back to the stock one, the NVH goes away.