Anyone with Tick MC installed, picture inside
#1
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I have a Tick in my A4 to M6 swap car, and while I'm going through fixing all the things I have screwed up on my car I'm going to reinforce the firewall since I drilled a few too many holes
anyways, is it normal for the line to be touching the bottom here? Anyone else who has one, how much clearance do you have?
![](http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g454/keithwvd/tickmc.jpg)
Thanks!
anyways, is it normal for the line to be touching the bottom here? Anyone else who has one, how much clearance do you have?
![](http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g454/keithwvd/tickmc.jpg)
Thanks!
#4
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if anyone could see about how much clearance you have that would be awesome, originally it was just making contact with the stud below the mount that autos have, so now without that stud it's touching. I think it has to move up a hair but I can't tell by looking from the interior very well
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When I did my swap, I drilled my MC hole in a spot that required drilling that stud out GM put on the auto cars as well. After I did that, I also noticed I didn't have a lot of clearance under the line. I couldn't get a good shot of what mine looks like, but putting it in I could feel the elbow of the line rubbing against the fender well. I imagine it would look similar to yours.
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#12
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The master is a very tight fits as others have posted. I don't know an exact clearance you should have, and I don't have a car here right now to compare to. I would say an 1/8" or so would be a fair estimate.
It shouldn't be touching the frame like that. If the mounting location is too low since this is a swap car, that could be your issue. Take a look at how the rod exiting the back of the master lines up with the master itself. Thats probably tough to see, but if the master is mounted too low you may be able to tell that the rod isn't exactly in line with the body of the cylinder itself.
It probably wouldn't be a big deal to slot your holes and slide the master up a fraction of an inch.
Does your pedals still bolt under the masters bolts? Just curious as that part of the pedal bracket usually provides a pretty good template for where drill your masters holes as long as it wasn't bent or anything...
It shouldn't be touching the frame like that. If the mounting location is too low since this is a swap car, that could be your issue. Take a look at how the rod exiting the back of the master lines up with the master itself. Thats probably tough to see, but if the master is mounted too low you may be able to tell that the rod isn't exactly in line with the body of the cylinder itself.
It probably wouldn't be a big deal to slot your holes and slide the master up a fraction of an inch.
Does your pedals still bolt under the masters bolts? Just curious as that part of the pedal bracket usually provides a pretty good template for where drill your masters holes as long as it wasn't bent or anything...
#13
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thanks!!
I used the pedals as a template, looking at pics of m6 cars they look like they're dead on but I'll try moving the hole up a hair. The bracket is pretty flimsy so I can definitely just push it up a bit. I added a reinforcement plate the same thickness as the factory one also, but I'll go back and try again.
I used the pedals as a template, looking at pics of m6 cars they look like they're dead on but I'll try moving the hole up a hair. The bracket is pretty flimsy so I can definitely just push it up a bit. I added a reinforcement plate the same thickness as the factory one also, but I'll go back and try again.