GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

so my stock clutch is on its last leg 81K+ miles and was lookin to swap to a centerforce or ram clutch. what would be a better choice? i have some bolt-ons/ 150 shot and plan to do head/cam swap this winter.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Textralia OZ-700 and never look back!

Add a Tick perf. master and you have a great clutch that works well on and off the street. Centerforce and Ram HATE to be slipped andmost who dont drive a race clutch like it should often burn them out.

http://sdparts.com/category/textrali...ip-clutch-kits

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

thats alil outta the price range right now

C4fly

iTrader: (1)

LS6 clutch. My friends, one with a heads and cam Camaro SS and the other with a Z28 with a 150 shot and boltons both run this clutch and it holds very well, has a close to stock feel and is very user friendly.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

hmmm that sounds like an option. any idea on price of ls6 clutch? is it a direct bolt in? i dont wanna tear it down and need to order another part lol. thx.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

We offer 7 different clutch options for most application! Iassume that this is for an F-body with an LS1. If so, take a look at the link below and let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to help! If you have another vehicle let me know and I will be happy to provide more details for your application. Thanks!

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy/Camaro/1999/Single

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

PM sent.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Give me a call, we've got all our Monster Clutches on sale - we've got one for you and will take care of you.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

LS6 is NOT the way to go. It will hold the power I have but it cannot be slipped at all. ANY slipping with racing and it gives up. It also has only 20k miles. If you are running NO2 then you have to look into the aftermarket. LS7 won't work well either. Check Monster, Spec, McLeod, Ram or Diamond. They will all have something for your needs. You should certainly steer away from any organic disk if you plan on and slipping at all.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

email sent.

Fry_

The Tick/Monster complete clutch package has everything you need, and don't try to say that it's to much money and your car doesn't need a $300 Tick master cylinder because it does. Also you should almost always replace your slave cylinder any time you have your trans. out, and the bleeder line should have come stock on these cars. If your hitting it with a 150 shot, and have H/C plans you better go with the level 3 or 4 clutch. I'm starting to wish I had gone with a level 2 kit instead of a level 1, because it looks like the car might make it to the drag strip more often then I thought it would.

SStressin

iTrader: (5)

id go with a monster stage 3 if i were you... deff go with a monster and dont look back.. top quality clutch

ROC OUT

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear. I will be installing one of these in a couple of weeks. Doing a Level 2 as car is all stock with some exhaust and intake plans.

GiggleJuiced_SS

iTrader: (31)

[QUOTE=Fry_;16451402]The Tick/Monster complete clutch packageIf your hitting it with a 150 shot, and have H/C plans you better go with the level 3 or 4 clutch.QUOTE]

i dont mind spendin the money and planned on replacing the slave cylinder. my concern from goin from a stage 2 to a stage 3 is its a puck style clutch right? ive driven other puck clutch cars and its a real PITA. i know it wont drive like stock but i dont want a IN or OUT clutch if you guys know what i mean? im lookin at the stage 3 more and more. any stage 3 owners have input on theirs? thx.

My6speedZ

iTrader: (18)

Exactly what I'm running and I love it, curious to see how it will hold up once I start taking it to strip. But on the street it drives like butter and with the Tick MC I've never had a stuck pedal.

As far as the Tick M/C goes IMO you HAVE to run one on a M6 with an aftermarket clutch. The stock barely moves enough fluid as it is. Even if your clutch engages and disengages fine, it could end up dragging your syncros and this can cause an even more expensive transmission rebuild.

^ Do not listen to this!

lsxformie

Does it matter if you go with the 12" or 11" clutch? Whats the diff besides the size? Thanks

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

If you are looking at monster, I believe that the 11" clutches are racing clutches and very aggressive. I suggest looking into the 12" for your power. The stage one or two will work. Get the stage three if you plan on racing at the track on drag radial's.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Look into Monster clutches. I'm currently running their Stage 2 full face disc and have about a year and a half daily driving and a lot of street abuse and it's still kicking strong. I was afraid of stepping to a Stage 3 and up because I wanted streetability, but I recently installed their Stage 3 in my buddy's GTO and I wish I went with the Stage 3. It has virtually no chatter, and drives very surprisingly smooth.

I had a SPEC Stage 2 clutch in my old LT1 and liked it too.

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

ive got the monster 11"ceramic race clutch and its not aggressive at at all it just grabs like a sob tho lol go monster!!!

White6SpdZ28

iTrader: (6)

+1 on the Tick adjustable master cylinder. Bought that and installed it and it is amazing. Shifting with it is great. Never miss a shift now. Had a Centerforce clutch when I pulled my trans to have it rebuilt. Threw it away and bought a Exedy Clutch kit. I have very few mods and the clutch works for me. I did buy a remote bleeder but not the tick one. Buy the tick one. The one I had kept leaking so i ended up throwing it out and just using Mity-Vac to bleed the clutch. Took all of about 5 mins to bleed the clutch. I would have ordered the speed bleeder but honestly didn't want to pull my trans again. Pulled it out and put it back in 5 times trying to figure out what was leaking.