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Clutch selection for 525 ft*lb of torque

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Old 07-29-2012 | 04:38 PM
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Default Clutch selection for 525 ft*lb of torque

I'm looking for a street friendly (more than just on and off) that can handle about 525 ft*lb of torque @ the wheels. It looks like there is a wide range of prices for the same torque or power ratings. What's the difference between the cheaper clutches and the more expensive cluches (besides the price)?

SPEC Stage 2 Clutch
550 ft*lb rating
$390

Zoom Performance Products F2-70185
589 ft*lb rating
$430

Centerforce DF395010 Dual Friction Clutch
about 620 hp rating
$440

SPEC Stage 3
680 ft*lb rating
$450

SPEC Stage 2 PLUS
620 ft*lb rating
$450

Centerforce DF017010 Dual Friction Clutch
about 620 hp rating
$455

24255748 – LS7 Clutch
12571611 – LS7 Flywheel
about 525 rear wheel hp
$460

Ram Clutches 98931HD
Bearing not included.
slave 798-78165 or adjustable master 798-510 recommended
650 hp rating
$532

SPEC Stage 3 PLUS
850 ft*lb rating
$540

Monster Clutch Level 2
550 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$630

Monster Clutch Level 3
700 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$650

McLeod RST Twin Clutch
800 hp rating
works with stock flywheel
$690

Manic ER2 Single Clutch Kit
700 hp rating
$755

Monster Clutch Level 4
700 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$780

Monster Clutch Level 5
825 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$880

Monster Clutch Level 6
900 hp or ft*lb rating
includes flywheel
$980

Textralia OZ-700 Singe Disc Clutch
650 whp rating
$980

Last edited by tb30570; 07-31-2012 at 11:13 PM.
Old 07-30-2012 | 10:57 AM
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Give us call at 817-750-2000 ans we'll get you into a Monster Level 2.
Old 07-30-2012 | 11:55 AM
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Is your torque rating at the crank or the wheels. Our listed capacities are rated at the crank so I want to make sure we are on the same page. Let me know and I will be happy to make a recommendation. Thanks!
Old 07-30-2012 | 01:29 PM
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go with monster the customer service and willingness to stand behind their product is unmatched
Old 07-30-2012 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Coach62
You didn't specify, when you said 525 ft/lbs of torque, I thought you meant engine output. Did you actually mean RWTQ? If yes, then we were talking apples and oranges obviously.
The torque output is somewhere between 510-515 ft*lb at the rear wheels. I rounded up to 5-1/4 C in the subject.

I'm not sure what the torque losses are through the drivetrain. I'd guess the crank torque output should be between 540-575 ft*lb.



Originally Posted by Orange Juice
What is the weight of the car and how sticky a tire do you plan on launching on. I just installed an RXT twin, I really like the pedal feel.
I have a set of 315/35-17 Nitto NT05R. Wear rating is 00.

I've never weighed the car, but I'm guessing about 3600lb with me in it.

RXT might be more than I need. I'd consider RST though.

Originally Posted by SPEC-01
Will the car see mostly street use or will it also see track use too? Are you planning to mod the car further?
It's not my daily driver but I do drive it to the grocery store. I run autocross about 4-5 times a year. I run it down the drag track once in a while too.

I don't plan on doing anymore engine mods because the bottom end wouldn't last very long.

Last edited by tb30570; 08-02-2012 at 10:20 PM.
Old 07-30-2012 | 08:01 PM
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What is the weight of the car and how sticky a tire do you plan on launching on. I just installed an RXT twin, I really like the pedal feel. It is a bit grabby but you can't have everything.
Above all else make sure that you have someone that knows how to set the clutch up otherwise they quickly turn into a paper weight.
Old 07-31-2012 | 04:48 PM
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Will the car see mostly street use or will it also see track use too? Are you planning to mod the car further?
Old 07-31-2012 | 08:49 PM
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Monster level 2-3, our master cylinder, slave cylinder and speed bleeder to complete the package.

Number is in signature!
Old 08-02-2012 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tb30570
I'm thinking about going with a twin clutch because the reviews I've read make it sound like a lot more street-able design.

What do you guys think about the McLeod RST 6912-07?
yes

single disc clutches advertised to support your TQ will be aggressive disc material which, IMHO, will not be as friendly for street driving as the organic disc twin.

by "friendly" that is subjective as each person would have his/her own opinion on what street friendly is.

the SPEC 3+ full face disc as a single disc clutch would be a distant 2nd choice very distant

Monster makes a quality clutch also, not sure if they make an organic twin disc for youur car but if so that would work.

The twin disc clutches with puc or ceramic disc faces will hold the most but not be as friendly on the street.
Old 08-02-2012 | 10:02 PM
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I run the Mcleod RXT and am very happy with it.
Old 08-03-2012 | 08:14 AM
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I think you will find that there are a tremendous number of users/supporters of the Stage 3+ that would catagorize it as extremely street friendly and easily daily drivable. Remember that many factors affect smoothness and these include flywheel flatness, break-in, driving style, etc... Of course, a twin disc is a great options and we offer these as well. I provided a link below. Your torque level really doesn't necessitate the use of a twin but you could certainly use one if you like!

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...000/Super_Twin

Our twins use complete billet construction, are available with steel or aluminum flywheels, and are offered in 4 different disc configurations to provide you with a combination that will easily meet your torque needs and desire for smooth engagement!
Old 08-03-2012 | 11:35 AM
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[QUOTE=tb30570;16584818]should I replace anything while replacing the clutch like the flywheel? do I need to buy a throw-out bearing?

QUOTE]

any type of clutch you get the FW, TO and pilot bearing should be replaced or at thevery least the FW should be resurfaced if using the old one

any clutch kit I have seen comes with a new TO bearing & pilot bearing, at least LT1 "pull type"

a "twin disc" clutch will have a specific FW that is part of that kit and most companies offering twin disc clutches also offer aluminum or steel FW. I would get the steel.

also I believe McLeod recommends or requires a slave change to the hydraulics so check with them. Not sure about SPEC so ping jeremy

It sounds like you may have existing hydraulic issues which will need to be addressed if keeping your current system
Old 08-03-2012 | 03:36 PM
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Our level 2 is not at all aggressive in any way and it will hold what you have without issues. Our level 1 twin will hold all you have and much, much more without being aggressive at all, it also has a two year warranty that is unprecedented in the clutch industry.

I will say that even if you don't buy our clutch do not buy a unit without a billet flywheel. Don't skimp on something that spins at 6500+ rpm by your feet.
Old 08-03-2012 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance
.

I will say that even if you don't buy our clutch do not buy a unit without a billet flywheel. Don't skimp on something that spins at 6500+ rpm by your feet.
^^^^, 2nd that
Old 08-04-2012 | 12:23 PM
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Here is my shopping list:



McLeod RST
http://speed-eng.com/store/mcleod-se...o-p-10227.html
$689.99+free shipping

Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...to-ls1-f-body/
$49.99+$6.75 shipping

total $1303.25

Does this look like a pretty good setup?

My biggest concern is the LS7 flywheel. According to the McLeod website, the RST must be used with a LS1 flat style flywheel. Will it work with an LS7 flywheel? http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/RST+Twin+Disc.mcl
"Needs LS1 Flat style flywheel with this application."

If the LS7 flywheel doesn't work with the McLeod RST, what is the part number for the LS1 C5 flywheel? Could I use a billet steel Spec flywheel for $233.10 if I need an LS1 style flywheel. Is that a better opion?
http://www.tickperformance.com/spec-...-ls6-flywheel/

Last edited by tb30570; 08-04-2012 at 07:21 PM.
Old 08-07-2012 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tb30570
Here is my shopping list:



McLeod RST
http://speed-eng.com/store/mcleod-se...o-p-10227.html
$689.99+free shipping

Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...to-ls1-f-body/
$49.99+$6.75 shipping

total $1303.25

Does this look like a pretty good setup?

My biggest concern is the LS7 flywheel. According to the McLeod website, the RST must be used with a LS1 flat style flywheel. Will it work with an LS7 flywheel? http://www.mcleodracing.com/products/RST+Twin+Disc.mcl
"Needs LS1 Flat style flywheel with this application."

If the LS7 flywheel doesn't work with the McLeod RST, what is the part number for the LS1 C5 flywheel? Could I use a billet steel Spec flywheel for $233.10 if I need an LS1 style flywheel. Is that a better opion?
http://www.tickperformance.com/spec-...-ls6-flywheel/
The LS7 flywheel will not work - do not skimp on a flywheel, buying a cast flywheel is absolutely ignorant in a performance clutch application.

We can save you a ton of headaches and get you into a twin disc clutch that has a two year warranty. Call us, we'll beat those prices.
Old 08-08-2012 | 04:16 PM
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Wow, when I first bought my Monster stage 5 it stated that it had the same level of hp and tq as the stage 6. The diffrence was one was 11 inches and the other was 12 inches I believe. Now I see the stage 6 has 900 rwtq and the stage 5 has 825? I could have sworn the rating were 850 on both. I think someone at monster said you could not slip the 11 inch clutch becuase it was a race clutch but the 12 inch was a strip/street so it was good for street driving. I never understood though why they were the same. Can somone at monster please tell me if your clutch ratings changed?
Old 08-08-2012 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tirefire
Wow, when I first bought my Monster stage 5 it stated that it had the same level of hp and tq as the stage 6. The diffrence was one was 11 inches and the other was 12 inches I believe. Now I see the stage 6 has 900 rwtq and the stage 5 has 825? I could have sworn the rating were 850 on both. I think someone at monster said you could not slip the 11 inch clutch becuase it was a race clutch but the 12 inch was a strip/street so it was good for street driving. I never understood though why they were the same. Can somone at monster please tell me if your clutch ratings changed?
You're mistaken.

The 12" units (Level 1-6) have all stayed the same rating since 2008 when we started selling to the public. The only exception to that is the old .5 series clutches, but those were not the same either. We do have 11" ceramic and iron units that have a higher torque rating and the 11" ceramic can easily be slipped. Our iron clutches are not recommended for daily driving as they are incredibly aggressive and won't last long being slipped consistently.

Of course we also offer our twins that have a rating of 800-1500hp/tq and we have built a couple of triples that would hold that and easily another 300hp/tq.
Old 08-14-2012 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance
You're mistaken.

The 12" units (Level 1-6) have all stayed the same rating since 2008 when we started selling to the public. The only exception to that is the old .5 series clutches, but those were not the same either. We do have 11" ceramic and iron units that have a higher torque rating and the 11" ceramic can easily be slipped. Our iron clutches are not recommended for daily driving as they are incredibly aggressive and won't last long being slipped consistently.

Of course we also offer our twins that have a rating of 800-1500hp/tq and we have built a couple of triples that would hold that and easily another 300hp/tq.
Thanks for clarifying I was under the impression that they were the same. just one was meant for strip only and the other was meant for street/strip 11inch and 12 inch. I guess I'll be ordering another clutch from you in the near future I have the level 5 but I get a feeling my AES 390 with F1A is going to eat it up.



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