richmond gear 6speed R.O.D.
#1
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richmond gear 6speed R.O.D.
Its designed to be a direct replacement for a t5 right? I know it.fits into my firebird with no.mods to.the tunnel, but I.cant remember if i needed a special crossmember or not. I'm hoping I dont because that will make life that much easier haha.
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Those things are not very strong and parts are hard to get unless Midwest has started get stuff in stock for them since the last time I spoke to them. Richmond no longer owns the line of transmissions.
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Besides the richmond is rated to 450, my engine will only have about 424. I dont want a race car, just a car with modern reliability and good gas mileage to boot, but disguised as an old car lol
#5
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I've got the ROD in my 68 vette behind a 6.0. I wouldn't use it for drag racing but it's held up fine for several years.
The 3rd gen V8 T5 had a 15 degree canted mounting position for the trans. The Richmond has the side shifter location so it needs a strait up bell. If you're going to bolt it behind an LSx, use a 621 bell.
On the crossmember, the richmond trans mount is mounted to the rear about 2" and about 1/2" lower compared to a muncie, not sure about a T5. I sortened the "tongue" that held the rubber mount to the crossmember and made my own rubber trans mount that was 1/2" thinner. No crossmember mods needed (mine was non-removable).
The 3rd gen V8 T5 had a 15 degree canted mounting position for the trans. The Richmond has the side shifter location so it needs a strait up bell. If you're going to bolt it behind an LSx, use a 621 bell.
On the crossmember, the richmond trans mount is mounted to the rear about 2" and about 1/2" lower compared to a muncie, not sure about a T5. I sortened the "tongue" that held the rubber mount to the crossmember and made my own rubber trans mount that was 1/2" thinner. No crossmember mods needed (mine was non-removable).
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The further back you mount a trans., the more fitment issues you'll have. So the 60s and 70s guys who want to run an old bell, an adapter plate and *then* the T56 too are automatically going to have issues. Sticking to a T56 bell w/ T56 is going to have fewer problems, although you're not automatically out of the woods.
#7
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I have one in my 3rd gen. I had to send it back to richmond twice to get it rebuilt. They did it for no charge . There fine for the street but not the best for the track.Mine did come with a custom cross member. I broke one of the rods on it too ounce. Went to powershift 3rd and nothing happen.
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#8
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1980 305 but swapping the engine to a LS3, hence the modern reliability. If I can get a t56 in there without wanting to jump off a bridge, ill do it but im kinda out of.my element here. The bellhousing I want to use is a quicktime RM-6036
Last edited by trevmust; 08-27-2012 at 07:26 PM.
#9
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Well, you're going to have to pick your poison.
Old style thicker bellhousing (OR rm-6036) + adapter plate w/ throwout bearing retainer + T56 means you're pushing it further back and will run into floor issues. But you'd be able to run the mechanical clutch linkage. If you don't want to mod the tunnel, don't go this route.
An F-body/GTO T56 with stock depth bell fits nicely and you'll need to go hydraulic clutch. McLeod was offering a plate to adapt a Ford throwout bearing sleeve to the front of a Viper or LS T56; same concept could be done w/ a GM trans.
I have an LT1 T56 adapted to mechanical linkage in a G-body w/ SBC and push clutch but it's custom.
Crossmember mods will be required. Don't jump on an aftermarket crossmember for dual exhaust if you're not ready to ditch the factory exhaust yet.
Old style thicker bellhousing (OR rm-6036) + adapter plate w/ throwout bearing retainer + T56 means you're pushing it further back and will run into floor issues. But you'd be able to run the mechanical clutch linkage. If you don't want to mod the tunnel, don't go this route.
An F-body/GTO T56 with stock depth bell fits nicely and you'll need to go hydraulic clutch. McLeod was offering a plate to adapt a Ford throwout bearing sleeve to the front of a Viper or LS T56; same concept could be done w/ a GM trans.
I have an LT1 T56 adapted to mechanical linkage in a G-body w/ SBC and push clutch but it's custom.
Crossmember mods will be required. Don't jump on an aftermarket crossmember for dual exhaust if you're not ready to ditch the factory exhaust yet.
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The rm needs an adapter plate? It's supposed to be universal... How hard would a hydraulic clutch install be? I'm getting all new parts so it would be a tremec t56 magnum from summit racing... None here is parting out an fbody or a corvette so I may as well buy new.
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Last T56 unit I did for a small block used a QTRM6023-PB in front of it and I built a custom unit with an LT1 midplate and special guide tube on it. All of the factory type linkages from the Camaro it went into worked perfect.
#15
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...n-2-0-a-2.html
I have the Richmond in my GTO. The transmission is OK. It definitely doesn't shift as nicely as a T56, but it has also never failed to shift. At last years LSFest, I won the 13 second bracket with a 12.98, 13.02, and 13.36. So anyone that says these transmissions don't shift, don't know the whole story. It is imperative to run proper lube because the old style brass synchos need more friction to work.
Andrew
I have the Richmond in my GTO. The transmission is OK. It definitely doesn't shift as nicely as a T56, but it has also never failed to shift. At last years LSFest, I won the 13 second bracket with a 12.98, 13.02, and 13.36. So anyone that says these transmissions don't shift, don't know the whole story. It is imperative to run proper lube because the old style brass synchos need more friction to work.
Andrew