BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

So I've known for a while my clutch would be showing its age soon (140k miles), and when I just had my car dyno-tuned after a cam swap, the clutch was slipping on the dyno at 6200rpm. I figured I'd just take it easy, and replace the clutch next week. Well shortly after pulling out of the dyno shop the car developed a tick. I pulled over and listened for something and it sounded like it was coming from the engine area so I just took it back to the shop and as I was pulling into the parking lot it stopped completely.

We spent some time trying to recreate it with revving, etcetera, but to no avail. We really just assumed it was clutch material or something that had settled in the bell-housing, so I drove home baby-ing the car.

Under low RPM situations it seems like I'm not even running on all 8. However when I disengage the clutch and just rev it, it seems much much smoother.

I've already ordered an LS7 clutch kit as I obviously need the upgrade, but do these problems sound like they could be caused by a bad clutch? Or am I looking at something else here? The car pulled fine on the dyno for every run aside from the slippage at 6200. The only code I'm throwing is a bad bank2 O2 sensor. The tuner deleted the codes for CAGS, rear O2s, AIR, and EGR, and said something about deleting a misfire code. Does this mean he deleted the cam causing the misfire code, or the ability for the computer to read a misfire altogether?

I know the simple thing would be to just fix the clutch and see if that solves my problem, but I won't be able to get to that until the middle of next week.

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

real? Nothing?

cam

iTrader: (9)

140k miles? on the stock clutch? Ummm how about what else isnt serviced and maybe we can help

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

Everything engine-wise was checked or replaced when the cam went in. New plugs and wires about 10k miles ago. Oil changed after cam swap, planned on changing again after the dyno tune (sometime next week, after only a couple hundred miles). All I can think of is a really finicky ignition coil problem, but wouldn't that throw a code?

cam

iTrader: (9)

Okay so lets get this a bit clearer. Aside from the regular maintenance stuff you listed what exactly was changed with the cam swap?

What springs? Pushrods? Stock lifters?

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

PAC .650" dual-springs, chrome-moly pushrods from Texas-Speed (7.400"), LS7 lifters, LS2 lifter trays and timing set, Melling high pressure oil pump. I'm thinking it might be a mix between adjusting to the loss of low-end torque and the O2 sensor being dead.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I see. If you can post a vid clip so we can here but it sure sounds like normal LS tick after a cam swap. Especially with dual springs. The base circle on many cam grinds is smaller than OEM to allow for the lobe design and this lessens preload which leads to tick. Even if preload is high ( which isnt all that safe with performance cams ) aggressive lobes can still "tick"

Even odder is some cams tick in one set up and not in another. Long story short it sounds to me like your fine so dont worry about it. I had an LS1 that ticked like crazy but it still spins 7000 RPM on the regular and i sold it three years ago after wailing it for a few years myself.

BirdsSince16

iTrader: (3)

The random limp mode stopped after I changed the O2. It still drives like hell between 1700-2200 RPM, but I imagine that's the tune. I'd like to get it to a track or something since I've put the clutch in, because it may just be my imagination but I've got a sickening feeling that it feels slower.