STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

top hole. 11mm short socket on a 1/4" ratchet was my go-to before i got a remote bleeder.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

I think I put the socket on carefully first and then the rachet since it was so tight

3Camaros

I assume you are working on this because you were losing fluid and your clutch is not disengaging right. I had this problem and replaced the master cylinder as I think you are doing, it did not fix the problem and I wound up replacing the slave cylinder. To do the slave cylinder you must pull the transmission. It is not really that hard, just a bunch of bolts but you will need a transmission jack and some good jack stands. I did mine in one evening by myself, sometimes I get lucky. You will need to bleed it and it either takes two people or the remote bleeder setup. Or you can drill a stategically placed hole in the firewall to run an extension thru to operate the bleeder screw while you are stroking the clutch for a one man operation. Put a carriage bolt in it when done and forget about it.

silverbullet25

straight up from where the line from the master cylinder goes into the actual tranny... its long and very very hard to get to I just cut a small 2 inch hole in the floor pan if you google 98 trans am clutch bleeder it will show you pics on where it exactly is and how to cut the hole if you want up to you nobody will ever see it goes under the carpet. good luck

M1tch

Its not that hard to get to it but make sure you dont drop the socket. Its up and to the right of the hydraulic line if i remember correctly. There will be a hole and right in there will be a 11mm head

mezzoni

i found the bleeder, thanks for the help guys. and yea it is in a tight spot... geez. GM didnt really think this through, not that thats a surprise. anyway i didnt try to crack it yet.

back to my original problem, my clutch pedal sticks to the floor, and is very slow to return. is this the master clutch cylinder or the slave cylinder? i dont want to replace the master and have it not be fixed and have to go in and pull the tranny anyway...

ls1tafirehawk

Had same problems its just the weak azz master cylinder. Mine would shift good long as ur not above 5k Rpm. But make sure your pushing the plastic piece in evenly on each side. If u use a socket to loosen the bleeder be careful or u will be fishing that socket out which u will probably eventually remove the tranny. When I did my clutch job I just cut a 2 inch hole in my floor board so I can access the bleeder screw with no problem.but try that in see what happened good luck..

doran_the_man

For those of us that have the e-clip style (without the white quick disconnect), what do we do if the e-clip doesn't hold the line in very tightly? I can pull my line out by hand after I disconnected and reconnected..... It looks like the clip doesn't have room to be removed and replaced unless the slave is out.

blown97ss

iTrader: (8)

you can squeeze the clip together ti tighten it. you are right about not being able to remove it at least i couldnt i replaced mine and didnt think much about the clip. so once i decided to replace the master cylinder i couldnt take the line off.

doran_the_man

Thanks for the reply.. Turns out the hydraulic line will NOT go into the slave if the o-ring is not correct. I had replaced it with a generic one from autozone and it was too thick (barely). Also, my original problem was a leak at the hydraulic line and master - the oring was also a generic one. Both ends are special parts, and big thanks to steve at monster clutches for sending me the part that I needed.

Justin Cunningham

Can you send me a info I need to order these please

LSX03gt

were can I buy this I hate that dam white clip

stevieturbo

The clip is dead easy. I just a pair of very long pointy nose pliers to push the clip back and have never had issues.

The quick disconnect is a great feature.

Brendan Special K

The clutch line removal tool as far as I've seen is only paired with a master cylinder kit with clutch line. Anyway, those white sleeves on the end of the clutch line that connects to the slave collects a lot of dirst a debris. So it needs to be PACKED in with a flathead screwdriver. The newer models have a lip on the white sleeve to get leverage with the removal tool. The older models have no lip and packing it hard will get it out. You don't needto pull as you pack the sleeve. it should come out once packed. FYI, it does take a little elbow grease to pack the white sleeve. Just replaced my clutch line on my 1999 S10.

stevieturbo

My slave disconnect had a lip...and that's from like 2001

Notcher89

Hey guys. I have a 2000 T/a that was an original ls1 6spd car and I have put a 6.0 and th350 trans in it. How do I get rid of slave cylinder, or do I have to do a manual brake conversion? Right now the line is still connected. And I'm still looking at using the ABS or get rid of that too?

stevieturbo

What ? The slave cylinder is bolted to the gearbox....so if you've an auto in there, it's already gone.

ABS has nothing to do with the gearbox.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I take it your referring to the master cylinder not a clutch slave cylinder. There are conversions to convert to manual brakes but if this for a daily I would keep the factory equipment.

Notcher89

Correct me if I'm wrong. the slave cylinder is that round "dew-hicky" thing connected to a braided line that seems to connect to the booster or master. I'm not too familiar with fbody cars (mustang guy at heart) and have done tons of swaps on fox body and g body cars as well. All I'm asking is what do I do with that, what I'm seeming to think is a slave cylinder? Is there a spot up on the booster or master that i plug after removing this or what?

stevieturbo

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=ls1+slave+cylinder