Why does my clutch keep pulling air?
11-01-2012, 01:10 PM
#1
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Why does my clutch keep pulling air? I just bled my clutch last week. I did the whole pump it up lay under it crack the pain in the *** bleeder for like an hour. I finally got what seemed to be all of the air out and my clutch felt great for about a week. Now its back to the stiff notchy shifting that I had before. I have a monster stage 2 and tick master.
11-03-2012, 10:59 PM
#5
How far out in relation to the brake pedal is the clutch adjusted?
When it feels "crappy" does the pedal have a soft or spongey feel at the top of its travel? If so, you either have a hydraulic issue or just more air in the system. If the pedal feels firm and solid, you may have an issue with the clutch/pressure plate.
If you have a c5 or fbody you can disconnect the masters line from the slave and perform a simple test. Apply pressure by hand, not too much to damage the master and see how the pedal feels. If it feels solid all the way to the top with only a minimal amount of "free play" then the master is fine. If it feels mushy or spongy, bleed the master from the quick disconnect piston in the end of the line. With an assistant, push the piston in at the end of the line. Have the assistant push the pedal down, release the piston, let pedal back up. Do this 3-4 times while making sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. Now test the feel of the pedal again while the line is disconnected. It should be firm now because you just removed any possible air by essentially "bench bleeding" the master on the car. If its still spongy repeat these steps and test again. If still spongy, send the master in for inspection/warranty.
When it feels "crappy" does the pedal have a soft or spongey feel at the top of its travel? If so, you either have a hydraulic issue or just more air in the system. If the pedal feels firm and solid, you may have an issue with the clutch/pressure plate.
If you have a c5 or fbody you can disconnect the masters line from the slave and perform a simple test. Apply pressure by hand, not too much to damage the master and see how the pedal feels. If it feels solid all the way to the top with only a minimal amount of "free play" then the master is fine. If it feels mushy or spongy, bleed the master from the quick disconnect piston in the end of the line. With an assistant, push the piston in at the end of the line. Have the assistant push the pedal down, release the piston, let pedal back up. Do this 3-4 times while making sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. Now test the feel of the pedal again while the line is disconnected. It should be firm now because you just removed any possible air by essentially "bench bleeding" the master on the car. If its still spongy repeat these steps and test again. If still spongy, send the master in for inspection/warranty.
