A damn good question!!!
#1
** UPDATE** A damn good question!!!
Okay here's one that I haven't heard yet, and I'm REALLLY hoping somebody might know what's going on.
First off let me begin by saying that I've got a Spec stage 3 w/ aluminum flywheel and I upgraded to '01 hydraulics and did the drill mod all at the same time, my car makes decent power but it's no monster.
So, I've been having a few problems with the clutch engagement. We pulled the tranny and installed a remote bleeding line and definitely got all of the air out and have no leaks. I know this because we've bled the clutch extensively using a mighty vac providing pressure at the top and a mighty vac providing a (suction) place for the fluid to flow to after going through the system. This along with the normal pump and bleed method have proven pretty good. we were able to pump fluid into, and through, the system under pressure, and then seal it up again.
Anyways my problem seems to be that the clutch engages/disengages way down near the floor and in a very short distance (kinda ackward) BUT the bigger problem is... that even with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor if I rev it enough the car will "lurch" forward a bit. This leads me to believe that the clutch isn't fully disengaging or something.
My question is... might the throw-out bearing need to be shimmed out more, or something? or might something else be wrong with the clutch assembly?
God please help me!!! we have a track event this next weekend (2 days) and I can't stand to have something wrong with the car again! (much less frying the clutch that I have less than a thousand miles on).
Troy
P.S. sorry for the length I just felt that I needed to explain myself fully
First off let me begin by saying that I've got a Spec stage 3 w/ aluminum flywheel and I upgraded to '01 hydraulics and did the drill mod all at the same time, my car makes decent power but it's no monster.
So, I've been having a few problems with the clutch engagement. We pulled the tranny and installed a remote bleeding line and definitely got all of the air out and have no leaks. I know this because we've bled the clutch extensively using a mighty vac providing pressure at the top and a mighty vac providing a (suction) place for the fluid to flow to after going through the system. This along with the normal pump and bleed method have proven pretty good. we were able to pump fluid into, and through, the system under pressure, and then seal it up again.
Anyways my problem seems to be that the clutch engages/disengages way down near the floor and in a very short distance (kinda ackward) BUT the bigger problem is... that even with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor if I rev it enough the car will "lurch" forward a bit. This leads me to believe that the clutch isn't fully disengaging or something.
My question is... might the throw-out bearing need to be shimmed out more, or something? or might something else be wrong with the clutch assembly?
God please help me!!! we have a track event this next weekend (2 days) and I can't stand to have something wrong with the car again! (much less frying the clutch that I have less than a thousand miles on).
Troy
P.S. sorry for the length I just felt that I needed to explain myself fully
Last edited by TK 14 SS; 04-13-2004 at 10:50 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by LOnSLO
Did you install the SPEC supplied shim?
Last edited by TK 14 SS; 04-12-2004 at 10:58 AM. Reason: spelling and grammar again! doing this from work (slow computer) doesn't make it any easier.
#4
Well, eliminates that one. How about the slave, I assume it is new also? If it is, then you need to think about making an adjustable master out of your stocker. I had the same issue with a SPEC once. I couldn't shift worth anything at the track, and I knew it wasn't a hydraulic issue. So, I made my master adjustable, and all was well.
#5
Seen this with a Twin disk once
Very recently .
It was the clutch. the Material was coming off the disk and not lettin the clutch totally disengage.
Might wanna pull that clutch and take a look at it .
Thats my best guess.
Tom
Very recently .
It was the clutch. the Material was coming off the disk and not lettin the clutch totally disengage.
Might wanna pull that clutch and take a look at it .
Thats my best guess.
Tom
#6
Wow!
Thanks guys, but I have to ask... How did you make your master adjustable?
And have to say... Damn I sure hope that the clutch isn't coming apart (I wonder what Spec would have to say 'bout that?)
Any other input?
Thanks guys, but I have to ask... How did you make your master adjustable?
And have to say... Damn I sure hope that the clutch isn't coming apart (I wonder what Spec would have to say 'bout that?)
Any other input?
Trending Topics
#8
Get a Mcleod adjustable master. It eliminated all my clutch/shifting problems. Set it up where it engages toward the top of the pedal, but where you still have about 1" to 1.5" of free travel. It made my pedal a little firmer, and my clutch engages toward the top. It will help 6k+ RPM shifting. You have a SPEC? Yeah, you will DEFINITELY know when its engaged. I have a weak centerforce, and I can tell when its engaged, Im sure you will. Just my 2 cents.
#9
Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
how old is it?
Troy
#10
Originally Posted by TK 14 SS
Yes sir! It is the greenish colored one, correct??
I thought you only used those if you had to have the flywheel shimmed Did you install the flywheel and clutch at the same time? I never used mine, but then again I have an adjustable master.
#11
Originally Posted by Xerxes
I thought you only used those if you had to have the flywheel shimmed Did you install the flywheel and clutch at the same time? I never used mine, but then again I have an adjustable master.
Thanks!
TK
#13
Brad,
Did you make yours? I guess I didn't pay close enough atention to it I have an adjustable one in my car and I sent Troy some pics of it tonight. Looks like all we need to do is find a heim joint thingy and it should work out. Wonder if the local race shops might carry that, either Vic or Waldo.
Bill
Did you make yours? I guess I didn't pay close enough atention to it I have an adjustable one in my car and I sent Troy some pics of it tonight. Looks like all we need to do is find a heim joint thingy and it should work out. Wonder if the local race shops might carry that, either Vic or Waldo.
Bill
#14
Originally Posted by LOnSLO
Well, eliminates that one. How about the slave, I assume it is new also? If it is, then you need to think about making an adjustable master out of your stocker. I had the same issue with a SPEC once. I couldn't shift worth anything at the track, and I knew it wasn't a hydraulic issue. So, I made my master adjustable, and all was well.
Bill
#15
the shim from what i have seen isnt there for machined flywheels but to keep the engaement near middle or higher not a cm of the floor , i just put in the whole balanced setup and have had no problems other than relearnig how to drive with a grabby clutch pedal engament is bout halfway
#16
ALLLLL Betterrrr
Thanks to the input of everybody and the help from rushman and Mightymouse's instructions, And especially Bill (SMOKNZ) my '01 master cylinder is now adjustable and my clutch is working like never before.
I highly recommend this to anyone, for the cost of a spherical rod end (or even just using a coupling nut and threading both ends of the cut original rod, etc...) and little else I now have an adjustable master cylinder that would cost $250+ from most places.
All in all Bill and I were very lucky (skilled, of course) and had the master out, "re-built", bench bled and back in working like a charm in less than 4 hours.
God damn I love it when a plan comes together. Now I can stop whining like a little b*tch 'bout the car and have fun again!!!
THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH
Troy
Thanks to the input of everybody and the help from rushman and Mightymouse's instructions, And especially Bill (SMOKNZ) my '01 master cylinder is now adjustable and my clutch is working like never before.
I highly recommend this to anyone, for the cost of a spherical rod end (or even just using a coupling nut and threading both ends of the cut original rod, etc...) and little else I now have an adjustable master cylinder that would cost $250+ from most places.
All in all Bill and I were very lucky (skilled, of course) and had the master out, "re-built", bench bled and back in working like a charm in less than 4 hours.
God damn I love it when a plan comes together. Now I can stop whining like a little b*tch 'bout the car and have fun again!!!
THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH
Troy