Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Soo,

I've had my Pro 5.0 on the car since 2008 and put on about 20k miles. In my younger years I must say I did beat on it somewhat. The car now has 75k on her and the shifter seems a bit more clinky/notchy and loose than it used to.

I do believe down the road I will need to re-build my trans because I can tell my synchros aren't what they used to be, but they are not so bad that I cannot get into gears or anything.

However has anyone un-installed and re-installed their shifter over years of driving and received a better feel all around? Is this a normal maintenence (re-siliconing the seal, adjusting the shifter,etc) ?

Thanks!

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

I tore mine out after about 40k of driving; I put new (stronger) springs into it that I got from McMaster Carr; I don't remember the exact springs I got though.

Easy to rebuild and re-grease it; I think it's 4 bolts. Just be sure to put the washers on the springs before putting the yoke back in, otherwise all sorts of issues will happen.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Ugh, Yeah I remember there were all sorts of ways to adjust it when installing it and I cannot remember what the correct settings are supposed to be. I know the instruction manual is long gone.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

don't put it off too long, when I had my trans rebuilt they told me my old worn out hurst had a large part in my blown synchros.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Damn, Could you elaborate a little? Just because, My synchros are also not in the bestest shape right now so I am def concerned. What did they say?

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

Actually there's nothing to adjust on the pro 5.0 except the stops (the 2 screws that stick out the front/rear of the top plate of the shifter.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Thats what I thought. I did research however, and I guess pro50.com offers a "Pro 5.0" re-build kit for like $25, However it just consists of 2 springs. I wonder if this will do anything at all.

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

If it's just 2 new springs, it's essentially what I did then. Just take it apart, re-lube it, and put the new springs in. Made a significant difference for me. Once that's done, any other notchy-ness, or clunky is internal to the transmission, and doesn't have anything to do with the shifter.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Sounds good, what kind of grease did you use and what parts did you lube with it on the shifter, Did you use grease on the ball that goes into the trans housing?

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

I didn't grease the ball that goes into the trans; just the Delrin insert & springs inside the shifter itself. The contact points that need to be liberally coated will be obvious one you open the shifter up.

I used a high-temp synthetic automotive grease that I had in the shop; nothing super special. Just a higher end one (not generic) from the parts store.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

Cool, Thanks!

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

How do you keep dirt and crap from getting in the mechanism from the top?? It seems it wolud be exposed to the elements as is.

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

The top of the mechanism is inside the car, only debris is stuff under the console, which is very little. You need to (if you didn't already) to cut the boot to fit around the ring of the shifter, not around the stick.