clutch install gone wrong somehow
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
clutch install gone wrong somehow hey guys, I decided to install my own clutch in my 2000 Z 28 and it took me 2 days to do and I got it all done but now that its back together I hear a very loud rattling noise coming from my shifter above 40mph and including when not in gear at that speed and higher so I took all the center console pieces out down to the shifter itself and the noise is definitely coming from the transmission.and I noticed when I was backing out of my driveway I had a solid line of clutch fluid down the driveway when I backed the car out so I think I may have done something wrong with the slave cylinder 
im gonna take some of it back apart to find out what is rattling but im pretty sure I busted the slave also. Can someone tell me the proper way to bleed it so I dont bust another next time?
im gonna take some of it back apart to find out what is rattling but im pretty sure I busted the slave also. Can someone tell me the proper way to bleed it so I dont bust another next time? Last edited by Silver_Bullet_Z28; Jan 28, 2013 at 12:25 PM.
Did you make sure to tighten the pressure plate and flywheel bolts in the correct sequence and torque down evenly to spec? If it took you that long then I'm sensing a bit of inexperience, did you remember to fill the tranny with fluid?
These may seem like silly questions but I have seen your described issues arise from these two things being overlooked. Especially if it is your first time and you just want to get the hell out from under your car and get on with life.
If you look in the stickies on the top of this section there is a wealth of info concerning bleeding the hydraulics. You should give them a read if you haven't already.
These may seem like silly questions but I have seen your described issues arise from these two things being overlooked. Especially if it is your first time and you just want to get the hell out from under your car and get on with life.
If you look in the stickies on the top of this section there is a wealth of info concerning bleeding the hydraulics. You should give them a read if you haven't already.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, MN
Did you reuse your old parts like the slave, throwout bearing or pilot bearing? Did you put in a stock clutch?
Easiest way to bleed a clutch is to put a remote speed bleeder with a check valve on it. Open the check valve, pump pedal, fill fluid, repeat until free of air, close valve and top off fluid.
Did you ever press the clutch pedal or actuate the slave before everything was hooked up? How does it shift while not moving or off?
Easiest way to bleed a clutch is to put a remote speed bleeder with a check valve on it. Open the check valve, pump pedal, fill fluid, repeat until free of air, close valve and top off fluid.
Did you ever press the clutch pedal or actuate the slave before everything was hooked up? How does it shift while not moving or off?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
Act street performance HDSS clutch kit with brand new slave, throw out, pilot, and rear main seal. I tried bleeding the slave with it hooked to the master cylinder line dangling and was pumping clutch when told to (had a couple guys that had installed a few clutches before helping me) and the slave popped apart and we put it back together and feels like it drives fine though....but I think I may have figured out the rattling... I took all the center console pieces out of the way down to the shifter to where I can see the ground and I noticed that the top torque arm bolt isn't tightened up and the bolt is about to fall out. So that is likely the rattling but is a slave still ok if it comes apart or is it never supposed to come apart? Is there some kind of seal that breaks when it comes apart?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 61
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From: TX
You should bleed the clutch with slave installed.
Refer to this method...
Always check make sure reservoir full at all times.
Slave installed and trans bolted up. Connect master line to slave.
With bleeder valve closed, push and apply slight pressure on clutch pedal with foot or hand. Open bleeder valve and push clutch pedal all the way down and hold down, close valve immediately and wait a couple seconds and bring pedal back up, possible by hand because it will prob stay down.
Repeat this method til clutch pedal feels good. It might take a long while.
As far as the rattling, not sure the torque arm would make a rattle sound, maybe shake but not rattle as it sits in its rubber bushing. Tighten it up and check. When you removed the shifter, did you check if the little cup thing was in there. Sometimes they break or fall out or pull out with the shifter rod thing.
Refer to this method...
Always check make sure reservoir full at all times.
Slave installed and trans bolted up. Connect master line to slave.
With bleeder valve closed, push and apply slight pressure on clutch pedal with foot or hand. Open bleeder valve and push clutch pedal all the way down and hold down, close valve immediately and wait a couple seconds and bring pedal back up, possible by hand because it will prob stay down.
Repeat this method til clutch pedal feels good. It might take a long while.
As far as the rattling, not sure the torque arm would make a rattle sound, maybe shake but not rattle as it sits in its rubber bushing. Tighten it up and check. When you removed the shifter, did you check if the little cup thing was in there. Sometimes they break or fall out or pull out with the shifter rod thing.
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
You should bleed the clutch with slave installed.
Refer to this method...
Always check make sure reservoir full at all times.
Slave installed and trans bolted up. Connect master line to slave.
With bleeder valve closed, push and apply slight pressure on clutch pedal with foot or hand. Open bleeder valve and push clutch pedal all the way down and hold down, close valve immediately and wait a couple seconds and bring pedal back up, possible by hand because it will prob stay down.
Repeat this method til clutch pedal feels good. It might take a long while.
As far as the rattling, not sure the torque arm would make a rattle sound, maybe shake but not rattle as it sits in its rubber bushing. Tighten it up and check. When you removed the shifter, did you check if the little cup thing was in there. Sometimes they break or fall out or pull out with the shifter rod thing.
Refer to this method...
Always check make sure reservoir full at all times.
Slave installed and trans bolted up. Connect master line to slave.
With bleeder valve closed, push and apply slight pressure on clutch pedal with foot or hand. Open bleeder valve and push clutch pedal all the way down and hold down, close valve immediately and wait a couple seconds and bring pedal back up, possible by hand because it will prob stay down.
Repeat this method til clutch pedal feels good. It might take a long while.
As far as the rattling, not sure the torque arm would make a rattle sound, maybe shake but not rattle as it sits in its rubber bushing. Tighten it up and check. When you removed the shifter, did you check if the little cup thing was in there. Sometimes they break or fall out or pull out with the shifter rod thing.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
Ok, the plastic cup thing in the transmission is still there when i took the shifter out so the only thing I can think of is that loose torque arm bolt that I can find so far so im about to try that next
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
Ok so I torqued the torque arm bolt and made the rattling stop but then the whole car vibrates at 50mph and gets scary at 65mph....forgot to put the c clips back in the driveshaft and it about fell out of the car -_- thank you all for the responses and having to put up with me lol and this has been a lesson well learned
