Was just at the dragstrip and could not shift from 3rd into 4th gear. had the clutch to the floor and just wouldnt budge. after the rpms came down i could easily shift into 4th. What can i do to fix it?
right now i have a stock t56 with a Monster 12" stg 2 clutch and tick mastercylinder

 

Curious what this is. I have the same problem trying to shift mine into 5th.

 

Did you replace the slave cylinder when you changed the master and clutch?

 

^ This. Also, make sure you have that Tick master adjusted properly. It was made to solve these problems. If you don't know how, call Tick directly, they're great to deal with.

 

Thanks for the help guys. And when I did the clutch I didnt replaced the slave. Been talking to a few people and Ive gotten alot've stuff. My mechanic said my trans id F****d (hes kindof a *****), my buddy said maybe just the linkage is messed up. but i think the first thing to do it call tick and see if i cant adjust it better

 

Does your slave leak at all?

 

Probably the slave. 100$ part, 500$ of labor to replace.

 

Hello NATHANIALPOPE

It appears that you have received some sound information from fellow members here. I also see that you visited a dealership. Have you considered maybe getting a second opinion? If you do, I can assist you in locating an certified dealer near you to offer a second opinion and other options. Let me know, here to help.

Reggie B.
GM Customer Care

 

Yeah, I have an 04 GTO and got an F Body slave from Tick Performance and swapped the fittings. I think it was about $140 shipped. Took me and my buddy about 10 hours total to drop the trans and replace, had a lot of back and forth trips for tools/fluid/etc and some trouble with the slave fittings which added a few hours.

 

FYI many times it's the centrifugal force on pressure plate problem.

Mine would run great unless it spent more than a few seconds near redline then pedal went soft.

One time I was going down the highway and just pressed the clutch in and revved near a friend just to make noise and it did it. Didn't even shift anything.

Have new clutch and PP to install, not in a hurry since it drives normal otherwise, but when I throw it in I'll inform others.

I think the PP problem is WAY more common than people think.

Try that. Going down the highway just press in the clutch and let it hang out near redline for like 3 or 5 seconds, if your pedal gets soft I bet it's the PP. Search here for more info about this.

 

That's almost always the case with the stock GM self adjusting pressure plates, but getting a Monster clutch usually remedies that problem. I hear ya on the PP problem though. Sooooo many years have gone by on this site where everytime someone comes in here and says they have the stock clutch and can't shift at high RPM's everyone just tells them they need to replace their slave or master cylinder when it's really the PP. I have the problem right now. In reference to what you said about reving it up on the highway, I was sitting at a stoplight in my TA years ago and some highschool kids in Honda Civics were reving at each other. I was in first gear and had the clutch pedal pushed in and reved my TA up pretty good and all the kids got scared and looked back and gave me a thumbs up. The light turned green immediately so I lifted my foot to let the clutch pedal up and the pedal was limp and stuck to the floor! I had to use my toe to pry it off the floor and it was still really soft and spongey. I had to pump the crap out of it and it brought it back to life.

Just recently I did a test where I floored it up an onramp onto the freeway. I tried to shift at redline and all the gears were really notchy and by the time I tried to switch into 4th gear I was locked out of gear and the clutch pedal was limp and almost all the way to the floor. I pumped the pedal like crazy and brought it back to life. I got off the free way and went back around. This time I decided to try and shift at 5k rpms instead of 6300pms. I pinned the throttle again and banged through every gear at 5k rpms. It shifted flawlessly, went into gear every shift as smooth as butter and the pedal never went limp.

I can't believe I bought a new master, a new slave, did the drill mod, and wrapped my clutch line in heat resistant tubing when all I needed was a new clutch kit so I could get rid of my stock pressure plate. Years ago when someone started a thread about having a hard time shifting at high rpms and everyone was telling them they needed to get a new slave or master, I remember this one guy coming in and saying it was the pressure plate plate fingers getting sucked in at high rpms, and everyone just ignored him. Now I see that he and some others that have said the same thing were right on.

I just ordered a Monster Level 1 clutch kit, and when I install it if it instantly fixes my shifting problems, I'm going to ask to rewrite some of the manual transmission sticky to include information about the pressure plate issue.

 

What's a little frustrating is that I don't think this is even mentioned in the FAQ, last time I saw it anyway, even though I would bet 33% (or more!) of the soft pedals are because of this.

Happening while "spirited driving" is usually explained by saying "water boiling in hot fluid", the FAQ should say that if it happens during spirited driving try testing it with revving and NOT heating up the clutch (like sitting still or disengaging clutch on highway), and if it happens then it's likely the PP.

 

I think im gunna try that out. Just be sitting still and rev it up to around 5500-6000 and push in the clutch just to see if i can get it in. I wont actually let out the clutch even though itd be cool to see if i could do a 4th gear burnout.

 

If it's the PP you should be able to do all that in Neutral in your driveway and it should be safe, clutch engaged/disengaged doesn't matter in Neutral. I don't think you need to be in 4th. EDIT: I think you were joking lol...

Anway I'd try it clutch IN and see if the pedal gets soft, then clutch OUT and see if the pedal gets soft. Either way make sure the car and clutch are cold to counter the boiling water in the fluid arguments I seem to always get.

Please reply with your results.

 

If the fluid boils, why can't we just use a higher DOT rating brake fluid for the clutch? DOT4 is interchangeable, DOT5 however generally is not since it's a special synthetic blend and can trash seals if not designed for it.

 

You can use a ATE super blue and increase temp.

I would also check your pressure plate bolts...my clutch in my GTO had similar issues and I found they had loosened up...Always check torque and add dab of blue locktite now.

I replaced master, slave, clutch line before i found it was just loose pressure plate bolts....

Oh and check your Pressure plate I had another issue where I had a crack in mine on one of the tabs which also made it shift like crap at high rpm



The replacement? ACT single disk with street/strip disk 745 tq rating SFI rated. Have this same clutch in my GTO and Z06

 

Just replaced the clutch with a Mcleod RXT. Go big or go home!

 

I somehow missed this when you originally posted, where was the clutch pedal in relation to the brake pedal with the adjustable master?

 

Id say the clutch was abouteven with the brake.Got the Mcleod Rxt and my problems went away. Along with it not engaging at high rpm in 3-4 shift it was hard to press and very chattery on take off....Sorry

 

Obviously it's too late as it's already out, but the Tick can be adjusted an 1" above the brake pedal and that could have helped if you were having disengagement issues. A full face disc should not chatter unless there is fluid contamination...regardless the v6 pressure plate Mcleod uses is a lot lighter, are you still running the Tick as well?