TR6060 Installation in '68 Camaro
08-18-2013, 06:33 PM
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TR6060 Installation in '68 Camaro I've installed a TR6060 MT in my '68 behind the LS3 it came with from a 2010 Camaro SS. I've used the original OEM clutch master cylinder. It took quite a bit of work to install this in the '68 but it is in and seems to fit great. My next step is to fill and bleed the system. How difficult are these systems to bleed?
08-18-2013, 08:02 PM
#2
Routing the fluid into the reservoir will make quick work of any air bubbles **If** the bleeder is barely open and prevents fluid from pulling back into the slave. A poor man's one-way valve if you will. And one of those is an option too.
If it's cracked wide open and bled, it will be a circle jerk of zero accomplishment.
Bleeding through the highest point in the slave (the bleeder) is the way to do it. All the "suction at the reservoir" methods aren't going to do it as effectively.
P.S., what's your trans. tag # and serial out of curiosity? Did you maintain the fixed-yoke?
If it's cracked wide open and bled, it will be a circle jerk of zero accomplishment.
Bleeding through the highest point in the slave (the bleeder) is the way to do it. All the "suction at the reservoir" methods aren't going to do it as effectively.
P.S., what's your trans. tag # and serial out of curiosity? Did you maintain the fixed-yoke?
08-18-2013, 08:52 PM
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Routing the fluid into the reservoir will make quick work of any air bubbles **If** the bleeder is barely open and prevents fluid from pulling back into the slave. A poor man's one-way valve if you will. And one of those is an option too.
If it's cracked wide open and bled, it will be a circle jerk of zero accomplishment.
Bleeding through the highest point in the slave (the bleeder) is the way to do it. All the "suction at the reservoir" methods aren't going to do it as effectively.
P.S., what's your trans. tag # and serial out of curiosity? Did you maintain the fixed-yoke?
If it's cracked wide open and bled, it will be a circle jerk of zero accomplishment.
Bleeding through the highest point in the slave (the bleeder) is the way to do it. All the "suction at the reservoir" methods aren't going to do it as effectively.
P.S., what's your trans. tag # and serial out of curiosity? Did you maintain the fixed-yoke?
Thanks,
Paul
08-19-2013, 06:55 PM
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08-21-2013, 03:29 PM
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There really is not enough spline at the output to proerly use a slipyoke. Yokes are generally soft/ not heattreated and this spline is....you will wear anotch in the yoke and a clunk will be the result at on/ off throttle positions after awhile. If you could get a billet or inherently-hard yoke, you might get better life .
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08-22-2013, 08:32 AM
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08-22-2013, 08:35 AM
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There really is not enough spline at the output to proerly use a slipyoke. Yokes are generally soft/ not heattreated and this spline is....you will wear anotch in the yoke and a clunk will be the result at on/ off throttle positions after awhile. If you could get a billet or inherently-hard yoke, you might get better life .
Thanks for your help!
02-12-2014, 10:54 PM
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I have finally found time to bleed the clutch system using the old method of pushing the pedal and cracking the bleeder valve. Now is the weird part. The pedal almost feels like a brake pedal in that if doesn't travel to the stopper any more. It builds pressure and about ⅔ or the way down, it feels very solid, like a brake pedal. What could be causing this? Any clutch pedal I've ever pushed goes all the way to the stop and you can feel the clutch separating.
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
