Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

t56 popping out of 3rd gear

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Old 06-09-2014, 01:52 PM
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Default t56 popping out of 3rd gear

2 summers and about 3,000 miles ago I put in a new monster stage 2 clutch, new master, new slave, new flywheel also put in a MGW shifter. all has been well with that no problems at all. but this weekend I raced a g8 gxp twice ( I won lol ) drove home and all was well.

I drove it yesterday just cruising not hard at all, Not all the time but a few times it would jump out of 3rd gear it got to the point where i had to hold it there before i shifted into 4th. and a couple times it was very difficult to get in and out of 4th gear. I literally had to hit the shifter to get to neutral from 4th gear.

so im going to buy this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/ticks...transmissions/

Im going to buy the 3rd/4th steel shift fork as well.

Now unrelated to what i just said. sometimes i could not get into first while i was sitting still. i would have to disengage the clutch a few times before i could get into 1st.

also once in a great while i would have troubles getting into reverse.

Now my question is should i get the 1st/2nd Synchronizer Assembly as well as the Reverse Synchronizer Assembly??? or will this rebuild kit solve these problems that i am having??

If anyone has some input i would greatly appreciate it

Thanks!!

Last edited by benji's_z28; 06-09-2014 at 03:37 PM.
Old 06-09-2014, 07:05 PM
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Take it apart and see how the those sliders look.

PM sent.
Old 06-09-2014, 08:52 PM
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Mine popped out of 2nd the other day (Never done that before) and pops out of 3rd every blue moon. I've just learned to hold it in gear. Never sticks in a gear though.
Old 06-10-2014, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by benji's_z28
2 summers and about 3,000 miles ago I put in a new monster stage 2 clutch, new master, new slave, new flywheel also put in a MGW shifter. all has been well with that no problems at all. but this weekend I raced a g8 gxp twice ( I won lol ) drove home and all was well.

I drove it yesterday just cruising not hard at all, Not all the time but a few times it would jump out of 3rd gear it got to the point where i had to hold it there before i shifted into 4th. and a couple times it was very difficult to get in and out of 4th gear. I literally had to hit the shifter to get to neutral from 4th gear.

so im going to buy this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/ticks...transmissions/

Im going to buy the 3rd/4th steel shift fork as well.

Now unrelated to what i just said. sometimes i could not get into first while i was sitting still. i would have to disengage the clutch a few times before i could get into 1st.

also once in a great while i would have troubles getting into reverse.

Now my question is should i get the 1st/2nd Synchronizer Assembly as well as the Reverse Synchronizer Assembly??? or will this rebuild kit solve these problems that i am having??

If anyone has some input i would greatly appreciate it

Thanks!!
i would add a 1/2 and 3/4 synchro assembly to that kit...that's what locks on to the rings...once they wear out, it will pop out of gear particularly at high rpm (depending on the amount of wear). the carbon rings are a good upgrade as is the steel 3/4 fork. i would consider the high rpm kit offered by the gearbox.org...it is more expensive however.

might be a good time to check your hydraulics...
Old 06-10-2014, 10:59 AM
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I agree with replacing the synchro's that is what I found worn excessively in mine. I had the same symptoms you described. now it holds firm in every gear.
Old 06-11-2014, 10:04 AM
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I have the tick adjustable master cylinder and speed bleeder. could my problems be as simple as adjusting the master cylinder to get more clutch release??
Old 06-13-2014, 08:42 AM
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any thoughts on the adjustable master cylinder needing adjusting??? Im just trying to rule things out.

any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks!
Old 06-13-2014, 09:28 PM
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you do NOT need to replace the synchro assembly. That is not the problem. What causes it to pop out of gear and get locked in gear are worn synchro keys- which can be ordered separately from the synchro assembly. Very very seldom do I see any wear on the synchro assembly itself that warrants its replacement. 9/10 times all a complete rebuild needs are just blocking rings, friction cones, synchro keys with springs, seals, and bearing #11.

It has nothing to do with your master.



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