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Short throw shifter install

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Old 07-31-2014 | 01:41 AM
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Default Short throw shifter install

I've looked around but haven't found a write-up. Got a hurst sts for my 99 5-speed FB. Just looking for someone to give me a link to throw me in the right direction. Thanks.
Old 07-31-2014 | 11:10 AM
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I've never seen one. It's a pretty basic thing and the instructions from Hurst are pretty straight forward.

How did you get a 5 speed '99?
Old 07-31-2014 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Vabaseballx13
I've looked around but haven't found a write-up. Got a hurst sts for my 99 5-speed FB. Just looking for someone to give me a link to throw me in the right direction. Thanks.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=12

Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
Old 07-31-2014 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wssix99
I've never seen one. It's a pretty basic thing and the instructions from Hurst are pretty straight forward.

How did you get a 5 speed '99?
I got it off core-shifters. It's also on eBay sold by the same name. It is hurst but they claim they've altered the base to be more "smoother and more robust." Very fast shipping as well.
Old 07-31-2014 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by idle
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=12

Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
Alright thanks.
Old 07-31-2014 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Vabaseballx13
I've looked around but haven't found a write-up. Got a hurst sts for my 99 5-speed FB. Just looking for someone to give me a link to throw me in the right direction. Thanks.
I have the orig 2 page instructions from Hurst and GM for the installation of their short throw shifter (the orig owner installed one in my car in 1999). You're better off with the link above as the Hurst/GM instructions are way too general. The first time I tried getting the console off it took me the better part of an hour. Now I can do it in about 5 min. Getting the E-brake up takes under 10 seconds. The hard part for me was trying to get the old boot off without destroying it as it was stuck hard to the car's body. Some of those boot fasteners were in so tight I needed a separate socket wrench with offset/extension to get to them. The others came off with a simple socket screwdriver.

The electrical cable from the front of the console area that heads to a safety switch (?) was out of its wiring clamp. And because it was out of position it made removing the console a lot harder. Be careful with the cable so you don't end up messing up anything. I'd also be sure I had a spare boot and plastic cup for the shifter ****. If you damage those during removal or find them damaged you'll wish you had a ready spare. Why go through all that trouble and not have a new plastic shifter cup? Do make note of which side the shifter handle bolts go on. If you do it wrong the shifter handle will run into console when reaching for REV gear. That <1/4" makes a big difference. An original style Hurst shifter probably comes with integral stops that you can't alter. The other brands or later Hursts will probably come with the screw in stops on each side.

The new short stick will probably bring more transmission noise into the cabin. There are some things you can do when re-assembling the shifter to reduce it (shifter handle gaskets, nylon washers, silencing material around the boot/base of shifter, etc.). The new shifter ball could induce noise all by itself if it's one of those plastic ones. Ideally, eliminating any straight metal to metal fits will reduce noise.

Last edited by Firebrian; 07-31-2014 at 05:54 PM.
Old 08-03-2014 | 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
I have the orig 2 page instructions from Hurst and GM for the installation of their short throw shifter (the orig owner installed one in my car in 1999). You're better off with the link above as the Hurst/GM instructions are way too general. The first time I tried getting the console off it took me the better part of an hour. Now I can do it in about 5 min. Getting the E-brake up takes under 10 seconds. The hard part for me was trying to get the old boot off without destroying it as it was stuck hard to the car's body. Some of those boot fasteners were in so tight I needed a separate socket wrench with offset/extension to get to them. The others came off with a simple socket screwdriver.

The electrical cable from the front of the console area that heads to a safety switch (?) was out of its wiring clamp. And because it was out of position it made removing the console a lot harder. Be careful with the cable so you don't end up messing up anything. I'd also be sure I had a spare boot and plastic cup for the shifter ****. If you damage those during removal or find them damaged you'll wish you had a ready spare. Why go through all that trouble and not have a new plastic shifter cup? Do make note of which side the shifter handle bolts go on. If you do it wrong the shifter handle will run into console when reaching for REV gear. That <1/4" makes a big difference. An original style Hurst shifter probably comes with integral stops that you can't alter. The other brands or later Hursts will probably come with the screw in stops on each side.

The new short stick will probably bring more transmission noise into the cabin. There are some things you can do when re-assembling the shifter to reduce it (shifter handle gaskets, nylon washers, silencing material around the boot/base of shifter, etc.). The new shifter ball could induce noise all by itself if it's one of those plastic ones. Ideally, eliminating any straight metal to metal fits will reduce noise.
Thanks for the help. Installed it and love it. I think it's actually quieter than my stock shifter but my lower shift seal boot was warped so I ordered a new one that should help a little noise coming through the trans tunnel. I also need to get a new boot and boot bracket mine was very brittle and could brake at any second. The shift **** isn't one of the plastic ones luckily. Thanks again.
Old 08-03-2014 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by idle
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=12

Pretty straight forward. Hardest part is vertical-izing the e-brake.
Just want to say thanks again. Doing this DIY was simple. The hardest part was actually getting the shift **** off.
Old 08-03-2014 | 10:32 AM
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Does anyone know the total length of the short-throw shifter? I have a 2000 SS and I am not sure if I have this option. Thanks.
Old 08-03-2014 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyArmy
Does anyone know the total length of the short-throw shifter? I have a 2000 SS and I am not sure if I have this option. Thanks.
If you have a gray steel, straight-shafted, upper shifter attachment with a kink in it for noise reduction, that's factory GM. I'm not sure if the factory Hurst option (gray steel) was much shorter than that. My GM/Hurst short stick (chrome) is approx 2" shorter than the factory one and has an approx 15 deg bend in it (approx 6" long). In measuring the stock shifter bolted upper attachment, it's approx 8-1/2" long (if removed and measured). Any way you measure that (from the stub shaft support flange, bottom shaft bolt, or complete length) it's still 8" long. Any short stick would be measure considerably less than that.




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