Master or Slave?
Master or Slave? Recently my clutch has been getting worse and worse. It is very spongy and sticks to the floor very easily when sitting at a red light with the clutch engaged or especially when backing up in reverse. It will get stuck to the floor and the car will stall because I can't get the car into neutral quick enough, very annoying.
So I've done a couple things after reading up tons of threads on here and I've sucked out all of the fluid and replaced it until it was clear. Helped for about a day and then the problem came back very quickly.
Then I bought a mityvac and tried to bleed it and there was absolutely no air that would come out so I don't think that is the problem.
So now it leads me to believe it's the master clutch cylinder or either the slave cylinder. How would I tell which one needs replaced? I know the tranny needs dropped to install the slave so I would like to avoid replacing that and try to do the master first.
Does this sound like a master problem?
So I've done a couple things after reading up tons of threads on here and I've sucked out all of the fluid and replaced it until it was clear. Helped for about a day and then the problem came back very quickly.
Then I bought a mityvac and tried to bleed it and there was absolutely no air that would come out so I don't think that is the problem.
So now it leads me to believe it's the master clutch cylinder or either the slave cylinder. How would I tell which one needs replaced? I know the tranny needs dropped to install the slave so I would like to avoid replacing that and try to do the master first.
Does this sound like a master problem?
And what are the benefits of the Tick vs a new OEM master? Besides the hefty price tag.
Combination of my own experience and thread searches tells me that the one sure way to get rid of the clutch issue once and for all is:
1. Install the Tick Master. Very expensive, but after going through several stock masters, only doing the repair once is rather nice.
2. Replace the clutch with an aftermarket like monster. While you're in there already, a new slave is cheap insurance, and the stock GM slave is fine.
Doing both combined, you eliminate the weird random stuff the stock clutch does as it ages, and since the master is adjustable, you don't need the pressure plate to adjust. You get very consistent disengagement and pedal return.
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the Tick master is a larger bore (7/8" vs 3/8"), so it moves more fluid faster. The line does not have the restrictor, so there is no need to drill mod. The tick master is adjustable, so you can use a non-self-adjusting pressure plate, which greatly improves consistency of engagement point. The tick master is a much heavier duty build with better internal quality. I wish I had a picture of them side by side. no comparison. I did a couple fo OEM replacements before going to the tick, and they only lasted 3-6 months before I had the same problems. Only downside to a tick master is it's a b1tch to install. once it's in, though, you never have to do it again.
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