bleeding the clutch hydraulics 02 t56
04-09-2015, 05:20 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
bleeding the clutch hydraulics 02 t56 Hey, new here to LS1Tech. Recently acquired a 02 Camaro 6 speed. The clutch was recently replaced and the guy I bought it from says it needs to be bled out. The clutch won't fully disengage when you press it in. Makes it hard to shift gears and I know it's not good on the high mileage transmission. I am pretty good working on cars but this is a whole new thing for me. Would like some pointers on bleeding it out.
04-09-2015, 09:00 AM
#2
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Welcome to Tech. Here's what works best for me. You will need an assistant.
1. Separate the quick connect between the master and slave.
2. Have assistant press clutch pedal gently. While they are, use a screwdriver to open the anti-drain valve inside the quick connect. When the pedal hits the floor, have them hold it until you let the valve close again.
3. Repeat step two 3 times and then check / fill fluid reservoir.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for three fillings of the fluid reservoir. If at any time you let the fluid in the reservoir go empty, start all over at zero.
5. Connect the quick connect to the slave and make damn sure it's all the way in.
6. Use an 11-mm socket on the transmission bleed valve and bleed the slave just like you would your brakes - have assistant press pedal while you crack the valve. Tighten the valve before assistant releases pedal.
7. Repeat step 6 for three fillings of the reservoir or until you get no more air bubbles - whichever comes later. NOTE - If at any time you let the reservoir run empty, start all over at step 1, because you'll have air in the master again.
There are some like myself who installed a remote bleeder, which makes bleeding the slave a piece of cake - you can just sit in the car and bleed it unassisted. You can only install this remote bleeder by dropping the transmission. There are others who have drilled a hole in the tunnel to get better access to that stupid slave bleed valve and bleed the slave unassisted sitting in the car. There are others still who will recommend using a mity-vac to bleed everything by sucking all the air out.
Myself, I have found the mity-vac does good to reduce the bleed time on a new master, but when I'm just trying to bleed down existing hydraulics, the above has always been the method that ended up working best. Basically, you are bench-bleeding your master in the car and then bleeding the slave
1. Separate the quick connect between the master and slave.
2. Have assistant press clutch pedal gently. While they are, use a screwdriver to open the anti-drain valve inside the quick connect. When the pedal hits the floor, have them hold it until you let the valve close again.
3. Repeat step two 3 times and then check / fill fluid reservoir.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for three fillings of the fluid reservoir. If at any time you let the fluid in the reservoir go empty, start all over at zero.
5. Connect the quick connect to the slave and make damn sure it's all the way in.
6. Use an 11-mm socket on the transmission bleed valve and bleed the slave just like you would your brakes - have assistant press pedal while you crack the valve. Tighten the valve before assistant releases pedal.
7. Repeat step 6 for three fillings of the reservoir or until you get no more air bubbles - whichever comes later. NOTE - If at any time you let the reservoir run empty, start all over at step 1, because you'll have air in the master again.
There are some like myself who installed a remote bleeder, which makes bleeding the slave a piece of cake - you can just sit in the car and bleed it unassisted. You can only install this remote bleeder by dropping the transmission. There are others who have drilled a hole in the tunnel to get better access to that stupid slave bleed valve and bleed the slave unassisted sitting in the car. There are others still who will recommend using a mity-vac to bleed everything by sucking all the air out.
Myself, I have found the mity-vac does good to reduce the bleed time on a new master, but when I'm just trying to bleed down existing hydraulics, the above has always been the method that ended up working best. Basically, you are bench-bleeding your master in the car and then bleeding the slave
04-14-2015, 02:27 PM
#5
Another question... I have a T56 from an 04 GTO and I just installed it in a 71 Firebird. I isntalled the Tick remote bleeder first. I put new fluid in last night pumped the heck out of it until there were no more bubbles. The clutch pedal is still extremely light and goes down with almost no effort. It springs back nicely though. Should I be concerned about such a light pedal feel? This is when the car is off, no motor started as its not wired yet. Thanks
Welcome to Tech. Here's what works best for me. You will need an assistant.
1. Separate the quick connect between the master and slave.
2. Have assistant press clutch pedal gently. While they are, use a screwdriver to open the anti-drain valve inside the quick connect. When the pedal hits the floor, have them hold it until you let the valve close again.
3. Repeat step two 3 times and then check / fill fluid reservoir.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for three fillings of the fluid reservoir. If at any time you let the fluid in the reservoir go empty, start all over at zero.
5. Connect the quick connect to the slave and make damn sure it's all the way in.
6. Use an 11-mm socket on the transmission bleed valve and bleed the slave just like you would your brakes - have assistant press pedal while you crack the valve. Tighten the valve before assistant releases pedal.
7. Repeat step 6 for three fillings of the reservoir or until you get no more air bubbles - whichever comes later. NOTE - If at any time you let the reservoir run empty, start all over at step 1, because you'll have air in the master again.
There are some like myself who installed a remote bleeder, which makes bleeding the slave a piece of cake - you can just sit in the car and bleed it unassisted. You can only install this remote bleeder by dropping the transmission. There are others who have drilled a hole in the tunnel to get better access to that stupid slave bleed valve and bleed the slave unassisted sitting in the car. There are others still who will recommend using a mity-vac to bleed everything by sucking all the air out.
Myself, I have found the mity-vac does good to reduce the bleed time on a new master, but when I'm just trying to bleed down existing hydraulics, the above has always been the method that ended up working best. Basically, you are bench-bleeding your master in the car and then bleeding the slave
1. Separate the quick connect between the master and slave.
2. Have assistant press clutch pedal gently. While they are, use a screwdriver to open the anti-drain valve inside the quick connect. When the pedal hits the floor, have them hold it until you let the valve close again.
3. Repeat step two 3 times and then check / fill fluid reservoir.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for three fillings of the fluid reservoir. If at any time you let the fluid in the reservoir go empty, start all over at zero.
5. Connect the quick connect to the slave and make damn sure it's all the way in.
6. Use an 11-mm socket on the transmission bleed valve and bleed the slave just like you would your brakes - have assistant press pedal while you crack the valve. Tighten the valve before assistant releases pedal.
7. Repeat step 6 for three fillings of the reservoir or until you get no more air bubbles - whichever comes later. NOTE - If at any time you let the reservoir run empty, start all over at step 1, because you'll have air in the master again.
There are some like myself who installed a remote bleeder, which makes bleeding the slave a piece of cake - you can just sit in the car and bleed it unassisted. You can only install this remote bleeder by dropping the transmission. There are others who have drilled a hole in the tunnel to get better access to that stupid slave bleed valve and bleed the slave unassisted sitting in the car. There are others still who will recommend using a mity-vac to bleed everything by sucking all the air out.
Myself, I have found the mity-vac does good to reduce the bleed time on a new master, but when I'm just trying to bleed down existing hydraulics, the above has always been the method that ended up working best. Basically, you are bench-bleeding your master in the car and then bleeding the slave
04-14-2015, 04:08 PM
#6
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Another question... I have a T56 from an 04 GTO and I just installed it in a 71 Firebird. I isntalled the Tick remote bleeder first. I put new fluid in last night pumped the heck out of it until there were no more bubbles. The clutch pedal is still extremely light and goes down with almost no effort. It springs back nicely though. Should I be concerned about such a light pedal feel? This is when the car is off, no motor started as its not wired yet. Thanks
If you are comparing to another ls1 T56 clutch, then it might be trouble.
What I do is push the clutch in and make sure I can shift all gears unassisted. Then, repeat with motor running. If you're good there, take it for a spin and make sure it's good with the wheels spinning. If it's good without engine running and bad with engine running, probably still have air in master.
04-14-2015, 04:16 PM
#7
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Took it to a local shop and they couldn't figure out how to bleed it. I found that on Youtube. Ever try it?
How to bleed Ls1 Clutch Really Easy! - YouTube
How to bleed Ls1 Clutch Really Easy! - YouTube
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04-18-2015, 07:19 AM
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Ok, going to tackle this today.
Three questions:
1. The anti-drain valve is inside the quick connect and must be open to drain air out of the master cylinder, then closed and put back on the slave (step 2)?
2. Where on the transmission is the bleed valve located (step 6)?
3. Any pictures detailing the process?
Three questions:
1. The anti-drain valve is inside the quick connect and must be open to drain air out of the master cylinder, then closed and put back on the slave (step 2)?
2. Where on the transmission is the bleed valve located (step 6)?
3. Any pictures detailing the process?
04-20-2015, 10:35 AM
#9
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Ok, going to tackle this today.
Three questions:
1. The anti-drain valve is inside the quick connect and must be open to drain air out of the master cylinder, then closed and put back on the slave (step 2)?
2. Where on the transmission is the bleed valve located (step 6)?
3. Any pictures detailing the process?
Three questions:
1. The anti-drain valve is inside the quick connect and must be open to drain air out of the master cylinder, then closed and put back on the slave (step 2)?
2. Where on the transmission is the bleed valve located (step 6)?
3. Any pictures detailing the process?
1. I get under there with a phillips screw driver and have an assistant SLOWLY press the clutch while I push in on the valve. Let the valve come out before having assistant raise the pedal.
2. Transmission bleed valve is at about the 10:30 clock position if you are under the car looking towrad the front. Another reference point is it is about where your gas pedal is if you went through the car body. It's a real pain.