Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I hope you get it. Best of luck

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

For what it's worth I wanted to let you know that I'm in a similar position as you and am following your thread. My disclaimer -- I'm a noob with clutch work, so everthing below was leaned second hand from helpful folks on the board and my conversations with everyone else involved (my mechanic, McLeod, Tick and others).

I'm running a McLeod RST, the GM slave and recently installed a Tick MC to try to resolve an issue with getting the car in reverse.

To diagnose the issues, I performed the simple test to make sure the solenoid isn't an issue. Car shifts smoothly with the car off and gets notchy with the car on. Reverse was the first place where I had trouble. Pushed clutch in while the car was running and in 1st gear and the car creeps forward. Installed Tick MC.

I have really struggled getting the Tick adjusted where it needs to be. The ONLY spot I've been able to get rid of the disengagement issues to where the car is driveable is with my clutch pedal about two inches ABOVE the brake pedal. That's concerning to me because I don't want to ruin the pressure plate.

As it's currently positioned, the car shifts silky smooth with regular driving and WOT shifts. Aside from the oddly high clutch pedal, I still have an issue about 1 out of every 25 times getting the car in reverse and it's occassionally a little notchy getting into 1st (although I've always been able to get it in).

I've talked to Tick about this and here's the cliff notes on the best plan of action:
1. Make sure the system is properly bled and there is no air. Despite the firm pedal I have, the issue seems to indicate it's possible there's still air in there.
2. Move the turnbuckle back to the firewall to lower the pedal and try to adjust it again using the procedures noted in the posts above. Basically, start over on the adjustment process and hope it yields a better result.
3. If that all fails (and all of the components are good), this might just be the result of "tolerance stacking" with each of the pieces of the puzzle.

I talked to McLeod also. The RST should not need a shim if you're using the GM slave. If all of the above from Tick fails, the next step would be to inspect the clutch to make sure it's operating properly. I was told to take the pressure plate and back disk off -- at that time the disk between the floater and flywheel should move freely. If you then took the pilot tool out, that disk should fall freely to the bottom of the assembly.

I'm curious to see how you handle your issue. My plan is to bleed the system again, put the rear on jack stands and then start over with the adjustment. Hopefully with the rear in the air I would be able to see the wheels moving with any existing disengagement issues I'm having.

wayland1985

As an update: my motive bleeder and mighty vac came in today.

I ran 2 bottles of fluid using each.... I can now force the car into reverse... But it takes some muscle. No grinding or bad sounds, but it's not easy.

I'm wondering now if Maybe wearing the clutch in will help?

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Which cap did you use for the Motive? I have the standard GM setup with the "0108" cap, however it's a shade too big for the clutch MC. I think the "1109" cap is the adapter however need to measure to confirm it's an exact fit.

It sounds like you're making progress with bleeding!

wayland1985

I got crafty with the universal cap: I took the Christmas tree off, and I unmounted the reservoir, then attached it with some quick grip clamps.

I still think it can be bled more, but I'm out of fluid...

BALLSS

OP

Just wanted to clarify a couple points I posted earleir

The ? I asked about "did you draw the transmission in with bolts" was because what can happen (not always) is the tip of input shaft is catching on inner edge of pilot bearing because clutch disc is not dead nuts lined up (can be a PIA) or tranny is not lined up to bellhousing. Drawing tranny in with bolts can "force" tranny input shaft into pilot bearing scouring the inner race which in turn can "drag" on the input shaft which can (beyond making noise) cause disengagement issues.

I suspect your issue is more hydraulic issue (air in system) and even bleeding several bottles if any place (connection) there is a slight leak you just keep sucking air back into the hydraulics

If you are sure you don't have any air and you are sure your stock MC is good than you may:

need to shim slave
confirm stack height between discs & floater
over TQ PP Bolts

My note about Mcleod saying stock "GM" MC (or one same bore as a stock one) should be used with the RST/RXT twin. I had asked McLeod tech this because I read on a post they responded to (believe this forum) that their "twin" did not need a larger MC. Since I had just put in a McLeod Street Twin which came with a FW specific to that clutch it also had a larger than stock 13/16" MC ( I have a LT1 car). He said the LT1 "twin" needs a larger MC but the RST/RXT for the LS just needs (better) the stock one as extra travel from the slave is not needed from a larger stroke MC. I can't remember if the email was from Billy or Lee in Tech at McLeod

Hope you get it all working. Sometimes these swaps get frustrating but stick with it

wayland1985

I did need to pull the transmission in with the bolts, but it went in smoothly. I'd imagine if I caught the race, I'd have to really be yanking on the wrench, no? I mean, getting the original pilot out took some serious work with a slide hammer...

There's really no noise I can hear: at least no screeching/squealing. There IS a knock coming from the center of the car, but I'm thinking it may be the exhaust tapping on something.

I myself wondered if there was a leak in the line somewhere: but a quick look in the bellhousing with my inspection cam didn't show any fluid at all. Granted... I can't guarantee that to be the case given my cam isn't a high resolution.

I'm tempted to pull the tranny back some, but I'm worried that'll open the door for more problems.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

If you do pull it off, measure for a shim. I know it's not supposed to need it, but if there's a large enough gap between TOB and PP, you'll have disengagement issues

wayland1985

Even though I'm pretty sure I didn't damage the pilot.... I'm starting to think I'll drop the transmission again just so I can sleep better at night....

Has anybody here used the castrol Dex-merc fluid? That's what I put in (it's DEX 3 rated) but in wondering if another fluid would be better?

hyperzone

I'm searching all over for ideas on what to do with mine. I have a 1997 camaro with the t56 and was having issues with the disengagement. I found that my slave was sticking and did a quick fix once and the problem came back about a month later.

All the clutch hydraulics were original still and figured why not change out all the parts so, got the autozone slave and master and reused the line and reservoir. installed everything and started the bleeding process and got it to where the pedal feels like it did before and its definitely working the clutch because the car is able to drive and shift only, the clutch is not completely disengaging. I had it in the air and with motor running and clutch pedal to the floor, in gear the wheels will move.

the autozone slave DOES have a bleeder screw and I tried that but, didn't seem to help at all. I started doing the method of just working the slave cylinder in and out and it was pushing bubbles up to the reservoir but it just seemed to have endless tiny bubbles..

Now I pulled the whole system out and am bench bleeding (also did drill mod since its out again). I'm about to reinstall everything and try it one last time but, have the feeling its just not going to change.

What is the shimming I see people mentioning here? Where to you place a shim to help things? It really feels like if it just had a little more push the clutch would disengage completely. Not sure if the autozone parts are different spec or If I will need to go with some aftermarket part. sucks cause the car is drivable and actually shifts good once moving but, I cannot stand having to fight it to put it in first or reverse. such a PITA.

hyperzone

Back again... by the way.. I thought I had fixed my problem before but its back.. I ended up keeping the new slave cylinder I was talking about but I returned the autozone master cylinder and bought the after market tick performance adjustable master. It seemed to do the trick and everything was back to normal and shifting good for a few months. Then slowly but surely over the past week its like the damn clutch started to get that feeling like it wasn't disengaging completely again and made me really have to fight through the gears and now its just sitting in the driveway till I figure out what is the problem. I will be pulling the tranny here at somepoint to take a look inside but, anyone else here have any ideas? I mean, the hydraulics are basically all brand new and the bleeding and pushing bubbles isn't working as a fix right now. any help or photos of what y'all have encountered like this would be helpful. thanks