Acceptable vs Unaccptable Wear on Gear Clutch/Dog Teeth?
#1
Acceptable vs Unaccptable Wear on Gear Clutch/Dog Teeth?
I'm looking for some pics of what would be acceptable wear on the clutch/synchro teeth of a gear. I took my Corvettes T56 apart expecting to only upgrade your typical items but finding want looks to be excessive wear on all the clutch teeth except 1st gear.
The service manual shows some basic drawings but actual pictures would be a huge help. If anyone has some please post, it would be very helpful.
Thanks.
The service manual shows some basic drawings but actual pictures would be a huge help. If anyone has some please post, it would be very helpful.
Thanks.
#3
It's difficult for me to get a clear picture that show the condition.
I ended up having them inspected and was told my 2nd, 5th and reverse gears need to be replaced.
What is the issue with parts availability? Any recommendation on where to get these gears?
This is a 99 C5 Corvette.
Also, what would be the best way to sharpen the teeth? And has anyone tried this? I'm sure they are case hardened steel but I can't seem to find much info on case depth. I'm assuming .030?
Thanks
I ended up having them inspected and was told my 2nd, 5th and reverse gears need to be replaced.
What is the issue with parts availability? Any recommendation on where to get these gears?
This is a 99 C5 Corvette.
Also, what would be the best way to sharpen the teeth? And has anyone tried this? I'm sure they are case hardened steel but I can't seem to find much info on case depth. I'm assuming .030?
Thanks
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Tick is the best source for hard parts. The rebuild stuff you can get else where like the gear box.
Texas drivetrain is good too! I used all three for my rebuild as the previous "rebuilder" had no idea what they were doing. I needed a new main shaft due to a loose 5/6 driven gear eating the splines. Tick and TDP were both awesome to work with.
No idea on hardness depth. If it looked worn I replaced it.
Texas drivetrain is good too! I used all three for my rebuild as the previous "rebuilder" had no idea what they were doing. I needed a new main shaft due to a loose 5/6 driven gear eating the splines. Tick and TDP were both awesome to work with.
No idea on hardness depth. If it looked worn I replaced it.
#5
Great, thanks for the info. I'm looking for a 2nd gear now. Found an input shaft, 3rd gear and 5th gear.
I plan on calling thegearbox tomorrow and ordering their stage 2 rebuild and a new set of bearings. They only have the koyo bearings though, any idea on their quality vs timkin?
I plan on calling thegearbox tomorrow and ordering their stage 2 rebuild and a new set of bearings. They only have the koyo bearings though, any idea on their quality vs timkin?
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#8
Actually speaking of preloading the bearings. If I am checking my clearance and installing a shim for a .000-.002 preload with no gasket/sealer should I shim it closer to the .002? Or how is this typically done?
Edit:
Just ran across this article
www.autoblog.com/2006/12/09/autoblog-maintenance-301-transmission-randr-part-iv/
Looks like they shim to twice the recommended preload amount.
Edit:
Just ran across this article
www.autoblog.com/2006/12/09/autoblog-maintenance-301-transmission-randr-part-iv/
Looks like they shim to twice the recommended preload amount.
Last edited by About2Bite; 08-23-2015 at 07:14 PM.