Most reliable & light stock feeling clutch for 700rwhp?
#1
Most reliable & light stock feeling clutch for 700rwhp?
I have a ls7 now.. I'm assuming I can't keep it at 700rwhp. What clutches does everyone prefer for the higher hp levels? I want stock feel or lighter, and not some $2000 clutch here. My main choice so far is McLeod RST twin disc. I do not want spec at all (junk in my eyes) but are open to any others within a decent price range (under $1000) and reliable. Thanks
#2
Also notes, I put less than 1000 miles on the car a year, I visit the track sometimes (once or twice a year and slip the clutch, not dump) so I don't need a chattery clutch that is a bitch to drive around town like normal, but can do 5k clutch dumps with here lol. Just looking for something that can hold the power and not slip under normal wot circumstances. As well as being able to visit the track every now and then and not have to worry about slipping off the line. I'm not sure whether I want a twin or single either. I love my ls7 but I just don't think it will hold that much, esp. getting it from boost.
Last edited by fccs; 10-19-2015 at 08:51 PM.
#3
Pontiacerator
iTrader: (12)
For what you're asking for - light feel and serious grip at your power level - you're barking up the right tree by thinking twin. The RST has a good rep, but Monster among others is getting good buzz on its twins. I'm moving you over here where you'll get better input and user experiences.
#4
TECH Fanatic
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You will want the McLeod RXT or Monster LT1-SC. I have the LT1-S and it's awesome but 700rwhp is it's limit and uses organic disks so ginornous clutch dumps aren't a great idea over and over.
BTW my LS7 clutch hated life at about 450rwhp.
You HAVE to have a twin if you want no chatter and a light pedal at 700whp.
BTW my LS7 clutch hated life at about 450rwhp.
You HAVE to have a twin if you want no chatter and a light pedal at 700whp.
#7
I have the McLeod twin but many also like the Monster product.
For drivability you would do better with organic disc vs ceramic. With that said ceramic will put up with more high RPM clutch dumps and 1/4 mi trips
you need a twin disc clutch, period
For drivability you would do better with organic disc vs ceramic. With that said ceramic will put up with more high RPM clutch dumps and 1/4 mi trips
you need a twin disc clutch, period
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#8
FormerVendor
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Also notes, I put less than 1000 miles on the car a year, I visit the track sometimes (once or twice a year and slip the clutch, not dump) so I don't need a chattery clutch that is a bitch to drive around town like normal, but can do 5k clutch dumps with here lol. Just looking for something that can hold the power and not slip under normal wot circumstances. As well as being able to visit the track every now and then and not have to worry about slipping off the line. I'm not sure whether I want a twin or single either. I love my ls7 but I just don't think it will hold that much, esp. getting it from boost.
Feel free to give us a call if you want to go over details.(817-750-2000)
#9
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I have to agree. I just switched to a Monster LT1-R from a different manufactures big single and I can t believe how much lighter the pedal is and how it engages. I would say it has to be like stock (been awhile since I've driven a stock clutch) Also I have to say you can't beat ordering on Monday, clutch arriving on Friday, installing it on Saturday, and running new personal best track times on Sunday.
#10
FormerVendor
iTrader: (15)
Also notes, I put less than 1000 miles on the car a year, I visit the track sometimes (once or twice a year and slip the clutch, not dump) so I don't need a chattery clutch that is a bitch to drive around town like normal, but can do 5k clutch dumps with here lol. Just looking for something that can hold the power and not slip under normal wot circumstances. As well as being able to visit the track every now and then and not have to worry about slipping off the line. I'm not sure whether I want a twin or single either. I love my ls7 but I just don't think it will hold that much, esp. getting it from boost.
I have to agree. I just switched to a Monster LT1-R from a different manufactures big single and I can t believe how much lighter the pedal is and how it engages. I would say it has to be like stock (been awhile since I've driven a stock clutch) Also I have to say you can't beat ordering on Monday, clutch arriving on Friday, installing it on Saturday, and running new personal best track times on Sunday.
#11
I WILL be at 700rwhp. Whether it's 700rwhp or 750rwhp is another story. Yes though, I figured I need a twin disc to remain a light feel. Mcleod & Monster were two I had heard of people having good experiences with. Can someone chime in who has had both or driven on both to tell me differences? Feel, longevity, install procedure if anything had to be done to fit anything custom etc.? Real question is the LT1-S is rated to 700rwhp/tq.. so if I wind up sitting at 7-730rwhp/tq. Would that mean im basically maxing the clutch out and running on borrowed time? Or does it mean, that's fine and rated for that exactly but anything like 800+ is where im on borrowed time?
Last edited by fccs; 10-21-2015 at 12:03 AM.
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
I'm sure Steve will chime in again but I would NOT run one of theirs(or any) clutches near or over the rated power. They provide rear wheel numbers. If you think you'll be over 700 get the LT1-SC.
Why spend all this money on a clutch to only get just enough for where you are now?
Why spend all this money on a clutch to only get just enough for where you are now?
Last edited by Exidous; 10-21-2015 at 04:10 AM.
#14
12 Second Club
iTrader: (48)
Ive had the rst and am now running the lt1-s. Don't know why but i had issues with the rst right from the start and it ended up only lasting about a year of just normal street driving. I bought it used but it looked basically brand new so like i said i dunno what happened since lots of people run that clutch and have good results. Anyway both clutches drive great, the rst i ran with the stock master cylinder for a little while and it actually had a lighter clutch pedal then my stock clutch. Once i added a tick master it felt more like i would think a performance clutch would. The pedal feel is slightly heavier with the lt1-s but not by much. The rts had a little chatter however my lt1-s doesn't. As i said before for some reason my rts was slipping so as soon as i put the lt1-s in it grabbed much harder, another thing i like about the lt1-s is it uses factory disks so it should last a long time for normal driving. If you need to know anything else about my driving experience with the two of them let me know
#16
TECH Junkie
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the pedal pressure between the RST and RXT is minimal. Get the RXT..... it takes the abuse and keeps on ticking. The RST doesn't take the abuse as well as the RXT. I've installed/driven tons of them. Great clutches..... not chattery.
Any clutch you buy should be properly broken in anyway to make sure it holds the desired power level.
Any clutch you buy should be properly broken in anyway to make sure it holds the desired power level.
#17
the pedal pressure between the RST and RXT is minimal. Get the RXT..... it takes the abuse and keeps on ticking. The RST doesn't take the abuse as well as the RXT. I've installed/driven tons of them. Great clutches..... not chattery.
Any clutch you buy should be properly broken in anyway to make sure it holds the desired power level.
Any clutch you buy should be properly broken in anyway to make sure it holds the desired power level.
Last edited by gsteele; 10-27-2015 at 10:33 AM.
#18
I am thinking of going T56 vs automatic on my next build. With say 700whp and driving very conservatively (no racing-getting too old for that) how long could you get an RXT to last? Could it go 150000 miles or more theoretically? Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question but I hear so many stories about performance clutches lasting for only a short period of time.