A larger bore master will increase pedal stiffness, and shrink the engagement window of any clutch.

 

Gonna go against the advice of the pros and get a LT1-S with the lighter steel flywheel, im willing to sacrifice some street manners and learn how to launch this car. Theres guys running far lighter set ups on the bolt on cars cutting 1.6x 60s and mid to low 11 1/4s

 

I have driven many different clutches, and setup properly, many are nice. I run a 3/4 bore Tilton master, a McLeod slave and McLeod steel flywheel (heavy car). I do drag race it, but this particular clutch saw 500 street miles and a few passes before the engine had issues. Clutch and hyd system worked flawless to that point.

 

EDIT: Ive decided to not spray this car and to keep it more daily/street machine but still 30-40 passes a year, id like to see low 11s or just dip into the 10s with HCI, 450-500rwhp and minor weight reduction(just all the unnecessary stuff emissions etc)

Monster S2 and S3, Diamond S2 and McLeod Super Street Pro fit the budget and application.

Long term plan is go keep playing with my car and when i get board, build a proper drag car with an auto and more cubes.

 

Here CamaroKid.....meet your father


look at daddy's rear quater panels. Funny thing is I met this guy a LS fest and he said the same thing you said....10s with HCI, 450-500rwhp now he's CamaroKing! Speed is like Hot Women....you always want more!
there are a lot of great clutches out there and they all have their good, bad and ugly but on the peak of every mountain there's only room for ONE KING OF THE HILL. I asked myself SH*T what does the champ use?

 

Im sure hes using one of there tripple discs, i wont argue , Monster has an impressive line up and a pretty solid reputation. Im just looking for others opinions and experiences. IS the LT1-S worth the extra $300 ($450 canadian!) for a warmed up NA car, thats alot of cheese for me to justify and use on other mods

 

you have to be carefull TCK because the stock T-56 that comes in our cars are rated at 700hp MAX so if you decide to go with more ponies you'll have to start looking for the magnum tranny.
the monster stage 3 single is rated at 700 hp/tq so really on the stock tranny we have that would be the best choice that can hold extra mods. As you learn how to handle the 450-500 hp you're going to want to bump it up a bit more and more. eventually you're dancing with the T-56 max. the stage 3 single monster will be your max for your stock tranny/rear end

 

my opinion of course. lets see what others say......

 

yes. With the wider bore, you move the same amount of fluid with less stroke. Also the reason your pedal felt a bit heavier than stock. You lose some mechanical advantage.

OP, this will be a bit unorthodox, but I think you should go with something like a 5.5 tilton clutch. It uses the auto trans flex plate and a button in the middle for the flywheel. Three discs so it holds good. It will take a lot of MOI out of your car and it will rev a lot faster.

 

There is no wrong choice.

My diamond stage 2 is very sticky and feels like overkill on my car making about 420 wheel.

When the clutch is cold it can be a bit chatty, however once its up to temp is feel like a stock clutch except much stickier.

I think Jason has changed the design since I got mine a few years ago, mine has one side ceramic and one side is carbon, the ceramic side is what makes it so chatty when it's cold and stick hard when it's up to temperature.