pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

Car is a 382ci stroker making about 500rwhp. Has a fredh mcleod original street twin. For the past 4 months its been harder and harder to get a shift correct at high rpm( 6700) im thinking my 12 year old mcleod adjustable is the culprit. Any ideas? I just ordered a tick 7/8 bore adjustable. Hopefully this solves the issue

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

??? Anyone

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean that it's hard to get a correct shift? How old is the slave? Does your pedal feel firm? Have you done the rev test?

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

Car seems to "rock" forward when i put it in 1st... slave has maybe 1k miles and clutch as well. Master has about 50k... its a mcleod adjustable and i know there were issues with their old stuff. It feels like i get blocked out of gear on high (6700-7000rpm) shifts. Just ordered a tick... well see if that helps

DT69cam

And what trans???????

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

T56. Its a 1998 camaro

BALLSS

McLeod used to use the Tilton MC and those had issues with the hole in it that was not chamfered so the rubber cup of the MC would catch and eventually start to leak

They now use the Wilwood MC in their Twin kits.

do the "rev" test to see if the car creeps forward with clutch held all the way in while in gear...or jack up rear end, put in gear with clutch in...if wheels still turn your clutch is not disengaging due to failing hydraulics

The Tick MC is also a Tilton MC but a newer version

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

When rear wheels are in air, tires spin

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

An internal leak? What would that do exactly? Introduce air into the system?

BALLSS

your clutch is not fully disengaging. That would make it harder to shift into gears. If the car shifted good before but now does not that would indicate hydraulics are failing. Often the MC as the rubber cup inside wears or gets a cut/hole in it.

If the car has always been hard to shift into gear you could adjust the MC for more pedal travel to see if that resolves your problem...but if the MC or slave is going out than that will be a brief, it at all, fix

The MC is somewhat like a drum brake wheel cylinder inside. The older McLeod MC (Tiltons) for the LT1 had the issue of the hole inside the bore that fluid gets pushed through to slave edge was not chamfered and the rubber piston cup would pass oer it and eventually get cut. Ironically a $2 wheel cyl rebuild kit from NAPA was the same size cup Tilton used and easier to source for those who rebuilt theirs back then. Yours is a LSx one so it may also be a Tilton but IDK if that model had the same issues as the earlier LT1 MC's McLeod used

The ones McLeod uses now, and I have on my twin, is the Wilwood Compact MC with a adapter plate McLeod makes for model specific applications and they also make the adjustable rods.

Tick, IIRC, uses the Tilton MC but not the same one older McLeod units were using. Tick then makes the various adapter plates for model specific use and the adjustable rod.

A larger bore MC will increase pedal effort about 10% and your stroke would be shorter because you are moving a higher volume of fluid through MC

My LT1 Street Twin requires a 13/16" bore vs the stock 3/4". IDK what bore size the LSx twin uses but I know the RST/RXT twin for LSx applications says to use stock size MC bore

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You have AN line on your master? Cap it off at the end of the line and see if your master holds pressure; pedal won't go to the floor with you pressing ( hopefully.) That doesn't rule out the slave of course. I sincerely hope you're not having clutch issues.

Centerforce

It sounds like the internal seal is going bad on either the master or slave. Try doing a fast shift (stomping on the clutch quickly) and then doing a slower shift. If the seals are failing, you will have a much harder time getting into gear on the slow shift since you will start losing fluid pressure. Keep us posted with what you find.