I know this has been asked, partially (I did a search before posting). My question is multifaceted. I've been reading that the total weight of the LS7 Clutch is 60lbs. Would resurfacing the flywheel cut down on some of that weight? If so, how much should I have the stock flywheel resurfaced (I bought the Luk 04-905 kit)?

Other question is, I have a new drill modded Master Cylinder, do I need to buy the adjustable Tick Master Cylinder? I am changing out the slave cylinder as well.

I'm hopeful the clutch will hold up.

 

If weight is a major concern just buy a Fidonza aluminum flywheel.

 

Resurfacing the flywheel would remove some material, but not enough to make a difference. If you are worried about the weight, you need to either get a light weight flywheel, or a different clutch altogether.

 

Any updates on this clutch setup?
Why would you need to buy a tick master, I thought the stock is good enough to an ls7 clutch.

 

Ls7 clutches are poo overweight turds better suited for a dump truck than a performance car.

Look into something light. Personally i want nothing over 30lb. 25~lb is likely the sweet spot for a clutch and flywheel combo. The set up i currently run for the last 10years is 16lb complete.

 

LS7 is way overrated, and far to heavy. The stock LS1 clutch + flywheel is 49lbs. I got a Monster LT1-S lightweight dual and it is also 49lbs. That's the LIGHT version, but the mass is smaller and more centered. But it does grab GREAT and still has great modulation for smooth street takeoffs. I drove a buddy's car with a lighter Fidanza and it was a little more abrupt. If you're going to spend money on a clutch, there is no reason to get anything heavier than stock. The ones on the market now will still drive fine and give you some better acceleration.

 

Tony Mamo sells a new single disc clutch that’s 38 lbs total. I just put it in and love it. Ditch the LS7.

 

There is nothing wrong with the LS7 clutch. It has its place, and is a great clutch for the money.

Some of these other suggestions are 1.5-2.5x the cost of an LS7 clutch.

 

It's junk for performance cars....fine for dump trucks.

 

There's a reason they cost more...

 

Oh, knock it the **** off.

That clutch has been perfectly fine for vehicles for over a decade. Not everyone needs to spend stupid money for a clutch setup when their application doesn't warrant it.

 

Say's who? I had the LS7 clutch and it was the biggest POS for me.

 

There is no knock it the **** off.

You simply do not understand the performance advantage of a light clutch or a clutch with reduced moi. Which is why your harping on it. You probably look at hp ratings to determine what clutch to buy.

Perfectly fine for a dump truck is more like it. Take ls1 clutch out....install a ls7 clutch.....you've just slowed your car down. Due to adding 6lb of engine speed rotatiing mass.

Not to mention smaller diameter lighter discs aid in preserving your syncro's......especially in fcars where the syncro's are marginal especially at high rpm.

Gm uses clutch weight as a sort of torque management. New lt1's has a 66lb clutch. Guess what....those engines make great torque.....gotta control it or people be wrecking out

 

Then what clutch to get? If ls7 is crap but cheap, everything else is 2 or 3x more

 

Idk....all i can tell you is don't be skeered to drop some coin on a good light clutch. The ls7 clutch is cheap because it's junk.

Spec has a newer aluminum pressure plate option that might work well with a aluminum flywheel. Mantic has some nice stuff as does quarter master. Rps is probably top of the heap right now but really $. Alot of the more expensive clutches can be rebuilt saving $ in the long term or atleast reducing costs. Once you feel the responsiveness of a light clutch and the added acceleration you'll understand why you should spend a bit more.

 

If the OP is more about drag racing than road racing, drag racing is one of those applications where the ability to slip longer without overheating is more important than lite weight. A proper slipping clutch could turn Hio's 10.70 @129 into a 10.20.

Grant

 

I have one of your devices. ....hopefully we will find out sometime this year.

 

i've been back and forth with spec about this and heard of a 10.5" clutch they offer. if you option the aluminum pp and fw you're looking at 29-30 pounds all together. haven't found it on their site but the rep said it's a LSX clutch with all stages available.

does that mean it is an LS1 style clutch?

 

Sounds like it to me. They're pretty much all the same. If you can put a corvette clutch in a fcar then you can put a fcar clutch in a vette.

 

They do make alum flywheels for ls7 clutches also. We have em on hand. Been selling them as a combo since 2009. Lots of guys love em.
There are plenty of drawbacks to having a lightweight clutch as well as having a heavy clutch though.
The ls7 clutch wont work for somw people solely based off the way they drive. Ive seen them last fine on the street and ok at th track and ive seen them go up in smoke on a launch. It has nothing to do with the clutch itself, its about the foot behind it. A good quality hydraulic system makes a world of difference as well. Another interesting product that can help is the Strano clutch master cyl brace. Helps with clutch feel and brakes as well! Easy to install also. Just another option!