Do I need to upgrade/replace my T56?
03-06-2019, 04:42 PM
#21
However, the tilton master format is pretty standard, so once you put that wedge thing in there, swapping to a smaller master cylinder isn't bad. Word of advice -- pull the brake booster.
If I pull the transmission apart again, I'll end up putting in the tilton HRB.
I would get the aluminum flywheel vs the steel flywheel next time around, but be prepared for some tuning "fun".
If I pull the transmission apart again, I'll end up putting in the tilton HRB.
I would get the aluminum flywheel vs the steel flywheel next time around, but be prepared for some tuning "fun".
03-06-2019, 06:45 PM
#25
Oooh, ahhh, more to add to my list. Looks like PN 60-6105 is the part for the T56, but it needs a custom hydraulic line to connect to the OEM or Tick master. Would this part eliminate the preference to buy a new GM/Luk slave cylinder every rebuild?
Last edited by JimMueller; 03-06-2019 at 06:57 PM.
03-06-2019, 07:34 PM
#26
you dont have to buy a new slave with every clutch job/ rebuild. if its a daily driver street car i would say replace every 7-10 years or 100,000 miles, but thats my opinion assuming you have no issues. the reason why its recommended with clutch install is assuming the original 15 year old piece is still in there with 100,000 miles already on it
03-06-2019, 10:07 PM
#27
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The tick master is a tilton master bolted to an aluminum wedge to get it in the right spot. The wedge thing was fancy talk for the aluminum mount for the tilton master.
And yes the 98 had the required tables. Most tuners will advise you not to touch them
And yes the 98 had the required tables. Most tuners will advise you not to touch them
03-06-2019, 10:27 PM
#28
hes talking about the tuning required from the super light clutch....returns to idle too fast and car wants to stumble especially with a cam, thats one of the issues im aware of im sure there is more.....id imagine cutting the wheel when driving slow like in a parking lot is an issue that needs to be tuned as well
03-07-2019, 08:51 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
hes talking about the tuning required from the super light clutch....returns to idle too fast and car wants to stumble especially with a cam, thats one of the issues im aware of im sure there is more.....id imagine cutting the wheel when driving slow like in a parking lot is an issue that needs to be tuned as well
The common tricks of follower and cracker do not help in parking lots
03-07-2019, 09:44 AM
#30
Yup. For example, the entire internet will tell you not to touch the factory proportional, idle, derivative RPM tables in the idle tab, but for a light clutch and cam, you need to. Needs more corrective air down low to compensate for lost inertia and less corrective air high to help it settle more gently to idle.
The common tricks of follower and cracker do not help in parking lots
The common tricks of follower and cracker do not help in parking lots
03-07-2019, 01:31 PM
#31
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Lol. Its all good. Happy to help when you are ready.
03-08-2019, 03:42 PM
#33
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Probably no necessary to flush, but it can do no harm.
I think book number is around 4 or 4.5 litres for these. Might be 4.0, but easy to overfill to 4.5 litres. Cant recall exactly.
The "overfill" used to be via the reverse light switch, as opposed to the normal fill plug, if that's the measuring method you employ.
Depending if I was doing other work, I'd usually just remove the shifter and pour the oil in there as a quantity. Keep meaning to add a little fill hose fitting to the shifter base actually.
I think book number is around 4 or 4.5 litres for these. Might be 4.0, but easy to overfill to 4.5 litres. Cant recall exactly.
The "overfill" used to be via the reverse light switch, as opposed to the normal fill plug, if that's the measuring method you employ.
Depending if I was doing other work, I'd usually just remove the shifter and pour the oil in there as a quantity. Keep meaning to add a little fill hose fitting to the shifter base actually.
03-08-2019, 04:20 PM
#34
The '99 factory service manual states 3.9l / 4.1qt / 1.03gal is the MM6 capacity, so the 1 gal jug I have should be just right for a simple drain/fill, But the shop just said I'd need about 12qts / 3 gal for the flush process, and the fluid is $60/gal. $200 in fluid alone seems exorbitant.The service manual only talks about adding, draining and filling, nothing about flushing.
03-08-2019, 04:26 PM
#35
9 Second Club
By flush, I simply meant a fill with new fluid, short drive then drain/fill again.
Nothing fancy. But again....I would say it is not necessary. Or you could maybe use a cheaper fluid for the flush.
Nothing fancy. But again....I would say it is not necessary. Or you could maybe use a cheaper fluid for the flush.
03-08-2019, 08:35 PM
#37
My opinion Magnum vs T56 -FWIW, a
Definitely try to drive a Magnum or equivalent before making a decision. It took rowing through the gears one time on a Magnum to convince me to call RPM Transmission and upgrade my RPM Level 6 T-56 to a RPM Performance Level 6 Magnum. Best money I've spent on a transmission.
I let one of my friends drive my TA briefly to see what he thought of the Magnum. Less than four weeks later his FireHawk was getting a Magnum.
The extra 20 pounds for the Magnum does suck until you drive with one.
My biggest mistake in the with the resto-mod & restoration of my 91 RS Camaro was going with a level 2 t-56 instead of a Magnum. Had I rowed the gear of a Magnum once, I would have made a better decision.
Sometimes the tail shaft seal leaks and that's annoying on a new Magnum, mine did with in a few months. Getting it replaced was about $100 at Norris Motorsports
No leak issues since.
McCloud clutch, I'd favor the more durable RXT over the RST the power level desired. I have no experience with $2400 clutches to have an opinion on those.
Definitely try to drive a Magnum or equivalent before making a decision. It took rowing through the gears one time on a Magnum to convince me to call RPM Transmission and upgrade my RPM Level 6 T-56 to a RPM Performance Level 6 Magnum. Best money I've spent on a transmission.
I let one of my friends drive my TA briefly to see what he thought of the Magnum. Less than four weeks later his FireHawk was getting a Magnum.
The extra 20 pounds for the Magnum does suck until you drive with one.
My biggest mistake in the with the resto-mod & restoration of my 91 RS Camaro was going with a level 2 t-56 instead of a Magnum. Had I rowed the gear of a Magnum once, I would have made a better decision.
Sometimes the tail shaft seal leaks and that's annoying on a new Magnum, mine did with in a few months. Getting it replaced was about $100 at Norris Motorsports
No leak issues since.McCloud clutch, I'd favor the more durable RXT over the RST the power level desired. I have no experience with $2400 clutches to have an opinion on those.
03-12-2019, 07:14 PM
#38
I've unintentionally given myself more time on the drive line *sigh* I had a random tapping noise coming from the motor that was only noticeable at idle and couldn't duplicate on demand when not on the street. A day or so later it turned into sort of a squealing noise. Towed it to my shop, it sounds like it's the bottom end. I didn't exactly budget for a rebuild but we'll see what can be done. On the bright side, that's the longest a motor has stayed in the car (since June 2010). Whistler built this motor in his kitchen, wonder if he's still around?