M3EATER

You need to have the PCM reprogrammed to be a 6-sp unit, for the speedo to work. Or, have that part reprogrammed with LS1 Edit.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

What do you do with the shift lock cable when swapping to a M6?

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I just pulled mine out. If I remember right, I had to pull the steering column to detatch it.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

That sucks, I swapped out my pedal assembly with the column in place.

tici

iTrader: (1)

You can leave it there, it's doing nothing. You don't need to detach it from the steering column.
Mine is hidden somewhere under the console.

I also installed the pedals with the steering column in place...
I had to take the pedals apart and install them piece by piece on place.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Steering column is easy to remove. You don't have to detatch the cable but I'm **** about stuff like that .

Dan

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

The steering column is real easy. 4 nuts under the dash (2 to hold it in, 2 to remove a backet) and 3 bolts on the firewall.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

All I did was remove the gas pedal on both. I see no reason what so ever to remove the column. After all the bolts and switches were out and the pedal assembly was loose it took two minutes to take one out and put the other one in.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

What about the reverse lock out? Anyone ever try wiring the reverse lockout solenoid to the park lock solenoid wires? Seems too easy.

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

You have a little more room to work with it out.

M3EATER

It doesn't work. The on/off in the circuit is opposite of what you need for the reverse lock-out.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Alright, I guess I'll just leave it disconnected. It shifts ok on the bench, I kind of like the detent feel of the unenergized solenoid. Still waiting on the clutch so I can complete the swap and get it in the car...Thanks.

M3EATER

If you leave the solenoid in place - you have to give the shifter a REAL healthy shove to get it over to the right for reverse. I have torn rotator cuffs (bum shoulders) so this got pretty old.

When I pulled everything to replace the Spec clutch, I just removed the solenoid (and epoxied in a plug). Of course, now ... if someone else drives the car .... they can punch reverse instead of 5th.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone tried wiring it up to 44 on the computer (VCM)?
I'm going to use HPTuners when I do the swap. Does this turn some of the outputs to the A4 into outputs for the M6?

I seen a diagram somewhere that showed 44 going to the 2-3 shift solenoid for the A4 and the reverse solenoid for the M6. Anyone try this.

I'd rather wire it up close to factory as possible. I may just try it unenergized and if it gets old wire it up to the brake switch or just a toggle.

So far I swapped the rear gears, got the pedals in, picked up close to $400 worth of parts from GM like the complete console top, the lower boots, pedal pads, the neutral safety wiring plug, the master cylinder kit.

Next I'll do the drill mod and put the master in. A few hundered more miles and the gears will be broken in, I think then I will take the auto out and related parts.
I ordered the clutch, flywheel, slave, etc from GMPP so I figure I have a few months before I get that

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I got the swap done, now the cruise control doesn't work. It did work after I put the pedals and switches in and the automatic was in it. The clutch pedal would shut it off too.
I changed to a 2002 M6 vcm with HPTuners and deleted 801 and 803 ses codes.
Could the new program I put in be for a car without cruise?

The only difference I noticed was a plug on the clutch pedal with a gray wire and a black/white wire. Theres no place to connect this to. I did the wiring as shown in this thread with the neutral safety switch wired.
Any ideas whats wrong?

M3EATER

The PCM is looking for the other clutch switch. The one that would be mounted like the switch for the brake pedal. This is the one that tells the system that you've pushed the clutch pedal and it shuts the cruise off. You need to figure out which wires from the PCM are now acting as the wires that would go to that switch (the wires would have been doing something else for the automatic). Once this is determined, you'll just connect them together.

I have not figured this out yet. I need a full wiring diagram for the PCM (with 6-sp), noting all of the pin/wire functions. I haven't done an exhaustive search, but haven't found one yet.

Anyone else have the info?


Oh .....
By the way, For the reverse lock-out. You would need a source that powers the solenoid (to open it), only at the time that you would want to go into reverse.

You could use a brake pedal mounted switch that is open when the pedal is up and closes when the pedal is pushed (like the starter switch on the clutch pedal .... or one like the regular brake switch, but functions opposite. In other waords, it is open when the pedal is up). Run an ignition source wire through this switch .... through the solenoid and then to ground. This will make the solenoid work as it is supposed to.

If you power it all the time, you might as well take it off. If you do want to just power it all the time, run an ignition source power wire to the solenoid and then to ground.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Yea the reverse lockout would be kind of a pain the way I was going to wire it to a toggle switch. Too much playing with crap just to get it to reverse.
It's not too bad anyways, I put about 150 miles on it today, driving along the beach and all and some highway.

After about an hour it did throw a trouble code for the cruise circuit so you're right about that.

And I got a chance to stop at the 24/7 junkyard , they have a 2001 Z28 there. Around here when the LS1 cars get to the junkyard they are pretty much shells. But this one had all the wires to the pedal switches and a axed up interior harness. I traced the blk/wht and gray wires to the ends.
The blk/white joins a few others and ends up at the ALDL, the gray goes to a plug that I don't know what it plugged into.

I also noted how the clutch pedal start switch wires goes to a connector thats not more than 8 inches from the switch. I know my car has that connector and I may see if the wires are the same ones that end up under the console. This would make it easier to wire it up rather than run new ones under the carpet.

But most important...I got the ashtray light holder yay.

I'm willing to bet that the reverse solenoid wire ends up as one of the wires that went to the A4 in the round plug. More specifically light green orignally going to the 1-2 shift solenoid and originating from pin position 44 on the vcm.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I connected the reverse solenoid to the stop lights so I can go in reverse only when I'm braking. It's pretty safe: the only "dangerous" situation is when you downshift 6th to 5th at high speed and you need to brake a little. At that point you are allowed to shift into reverse.

I installed a diode in series to the reverse solenoid to avoid sparks: the diode has to be installed as close as possible to the solenoid and has to have the correct polarity.
Without diode you have sparks in the stop lights relais: this could burn the contact.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Heres a picture of the plug I got out of a 2001 M6 car. Not sure where it plugs in or if it plugs in to anything on an A4 car. Some of the wires are the same color as the ones on an A4 shifter, and if I'm not mistaken the others go to the cags and reverse solenoids. And this is where that gray wire thats missing from my cruise control circuit goes.
It would be nice if the was a matching plug in the A4 cars that could be unplugged between this and the shifter and this plugged in for the M6 wiring.
Anyone know?
I can't find it if there is one but I didn't tear it apart that much.

And I also found out that the clutch start switch connects to wires behind the bulkhead right behind the kick panel under the steering column and to the left. The purple and green wires. This is where I cut them from on the M6 car.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Well I found out getting cruise control to work is going to require pinning a wire into plug 32 on the pcm. (how do you do that?)
In my post above is a picture of the plug I got out of an '01 M6 Z28. The car was a shell with just the interior wires in it balled up with a bunch of junk on top. Well the cruise control wire was still plugged into the pedal switch, I traced it down to the plug above, in the proccess I had to unwrap it from a bundle of wires about 1 1/2" in diameter. I can't see swapping this into my car as a whole harness.
But I did find out where the plug goes in my car, it's behind the passenger side kick panel as shown in the picture below. And of course all the wires are missing. The gray wire mainly, I might assume the other missing wires are for the other M6 specific solenoids, etc.
I guess my point is, forget swapping an M6 harness in unless you want to tear the whole interior apart. The best you might do is pin the right pcm plugs and run the wires seperate.
The diagram shows the gray wire. The picture shows the A4 plug (installed) and the M6 plug (cut off).