M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
04-21-2006, 06:21 PM
#221
A few other things I'd like to mention.
Earlier in this thread a few people said the bottom clutch switch needs to be connected to a switch and not tied together in order for cruise control to work. Not true. The purple and green wires from that switch have nothing to do with the cruise control system.
The switch on top of the pedal is what cruise is wired into. Think about it, you want cruise to disengage as soon as you hit the pedal, not when the pedal reaches the floor. Thats why it's call a clutch pedal anticipation switch, it anticipates the clutch pedal moving.
As for the bottom clutch pedal switch wire it right into the bulkhead shown here. It's about 6" away from the switch and you don't have to pull wires under the carpet.
Earlier in this thread a few people said the bottom clutch switch needs to be connected to a switch and not tied together in order for cruise control to work. Not true. The purple and green wires from that switch have nothing to do with the cruise control system.
The switch on top of the pedal is what cruise is wired into. Think about it, you want cruise to disengage as soon as you hit the pedal, not when the pedal reaches the floor. Thats why it's call a clutch pedal anticipation switch, it anticipates the clutch pedal moving.
As for the bottom clutch pedal switch wire it right into the bulkhead shown here. It's about 6" away from the switch and you don't have to pull wires under the carpet.
04-29-2006, 04:45 PM
#226
Originally Posted by Deeavi
Yes I put in an M6 program, but I copied and pasted my tune into that program
What I did was start over with a stock HPTuners bin file for the same car but with an M6.
I changed the gear ratio and VIN, and raised the cags temp to 250*. And a few minor unrelated things.
I'm not sure what your tuning with but if you can compare an A4 tune to an M6 there are some important differences. A lot in timing and some in idle.
I would start over with a untouched M6 tune.
04-29-2006, 11:58 PM
#227
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Has anyone tried wiring it up to 44 on the computer (VCM)?
I'm going to use HPTuners when I do the swap. Does this turn some of the outputs to the A4 into outputs for the M6?
I seen a diagram somewhere that showed 44 going to the 2-3 shift solenoid for the A4 and the reverse solenoid for the M6. Anyone try this.
I'd rather wire it up close to factory as possible. I may just try it unenergized and if it gets old wire it up to the brake switch or just a toggle.
I'm going to use HPTuners when I do the swap. Does this turn some of the outputs to the A4 into outputs for the M6?
I seen a diagram somewhere that showed 44 going to the 2-3 shift solenoid for the A4 and the reverse solenoid for the M6. Anyone try this.
I'd rather wire it up close to factory as possible. I may just try it unenergized and if it gets old wire it up to the brake switch or just a toggle.
Did you try this ?
Which of the 2 pins is btw supposed to go to ground from the reverse lock out solenoid ? It seems the PCM grounds pin ( I'd remember 42 for a '98 ) when it disengages lock. Does the actual powering of the solenoid have to go through relay or can the pcm sink that kind of current ? .. or is it significant amount ?
04-30-2006, 06:40 AM
#228
Originally Posted by pekkaz
Did you try this ?
Which of the 2 pins is btw supposed to go to ground from the reverse lock out solenoid ? It seems the PCM grounds pin ( I'd remember 42 for a '98 ) when it disengages lock. Does the actual powering of the solenoid have to go through relay or can the pcm sink that kind of current ? .. or is it significant amount ?
Which of the 2 pins is btw supposed to go to ground from the reverse lock out solenoid ? It seems the PCM grounds pin ( I'd remember 42 for a '98 ) when it disengages lock. Does the actual powering of the solenoid have to go through relay or can the pcm sink that kind of current ? .. or is it significant amount ?
Did I try it? You must have skipped a few pages.
I used GM wiring schematics.
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.
If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.
To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.
It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.
If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.
C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.
C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.
To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.
If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.
To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.
It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.
If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.
C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.
C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.
To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.
05-05-2006, 02:10 PM
#235
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First of all, thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread, it has been very helpful.
Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.
That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.
Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.
Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.
That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.
Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.
05-05-2006, 05:23 PM
#236
Originally Posted by 69FB_LS1
First of all, thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread, it has been very helpful.
Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.
That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.
Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.
Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.
That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.
Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.
I did get a check engine light for the CPP switch (AKA clutch anticipation switch). The cruise didn't work either so I added that pin while adding the reverse solenoid pin.
Now cruise works and it puts out no codes.
05-06-2006, 09:20 PM
#237
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Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.
For a while now I've been looking for a '98-'02 Trans Am with a manual transmission. I've found that they are few and far between for the amount of money I am willing to spend and for the mileage on the car. Infact I find many more of these cars available with automatic transmissions. I was considering buying a Trans Am with an automatic transmission and then later on down the road swapping that tranny out with a manual.
I'd just like some suggestions and different perspectives on that. Thanks
For a while now I've been looking for a '98-'02 Trans Am with a manual transmission. I've found that they are few and far between for the amount of money I am willing to spend and for the mileage on the car. Infact I find many more of these cars available with automatic transmissions. I was considering buying a Trans Am with an automatic transmission and then later on down the road swapping that tranny out with a manual.
I'd just like some suggestions and different perspectives on that. Thanks
05-06-2006, 09:39 PM
#238
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clutch wont engage, i just got finished convertion my a4 to an m6, and my clutch wont work, its in there right andi bleed the hydraulics but when its in gear and i let go of clutch it dosnt turn off and i dont step on the gas,when i have it in first i try to go to second it starts to grind and the clutch dosnt engage, my i think it has to be the hydraulics
now when i turn on the car and i try to put into first it wont let me unless i realy jam it in, and when it does go in it grinds then it turns off right away when i put it in first, this is only supposed to hapen if the clutch isnt engaged right?
now when i turn on the car and i try to put into first it wont let me unless i realy jam it in, and when it does go in it grinds then it turns off right away when i put it in first, this is only supposed to hapen if the clutch isnt engaged right?
05-13-2006, 12:02 PM
#239
I've decided to install a diode in the reverse lockout circuit. The solenoid created a huge arc when power is disconnected and this happens in the PCM. It could damage it. Factory wiring diagrams show a diode so I put one in. It's Radioshack part# 1N4001, two for $0.63.
Here is some information on why it needs a diode.
Here is some information on why it needs a diode.
Surge Suppression Explained
Inductive kick (surge) occurs any time an electrically generated field collapses. A voltage, opposite in polarity to the original applied voltage is generated by the collapsing magnetic field.
A good example of this is in an automobile ignition system. When the breaker points open, the current flowing to the ignition coil is shut off and the magnetic field built up in the coil collapses. The resulting inductive kick voltage is high enough to jump the gap at the spark plug.
The same effect also happens whenever solenoid used on a hydraulic valve is shut off. The voltage surge can reach several hundred volts which will arc across the switch contacts and quickly destroy them. Switch life can be reduced to one-tenth of normal.
The solution is to add a diode in parallel across the solenoid terminals (See Fig.1). A diode acts as a one-way valve for electricity. In normal operation, the electric current can't flow through the diode, so it flows through the solenoid coil. When the operator releases the switch, the current is shut off to the solenoid and the inductive kick flows backwards through the diode rather than through the switch contacts, bleeding off the high voltage spike.
Installation Tips
Diodes should be installed as close as possible to the solenoid. Soldering a diode directly across the 2 solenoid terminals is ideal.
Use a diode with a voltage rating of at least 10 times the circuit voltage and a current rating at least as big as the current flowing through the solenoid. In practice, diodes rates at 200 volts and 1 amp are readily available for a few cents and are appropriate for most applications.
Diodes have a strip on one end of the case. On equipment wired with negative grounds, the end with the stripe should be installed on the most positive side of the solenoid. (This is usually the side that has the wire from the switch.) (See Fig. 1)
Inductive kick (surge) occurs any time an electrically generated field collapses. A voltage, opposite in polarity to the original applied voltage is generated by the collapsing magnetic field.
A good example of this is in an automobile ignition system. When the breaker points open, the current flowing to the ignition coil is shut off and the magnetic field built up in the coil collapses. The resulting inductive kick voltage is high enough to jump the gap at the spark plug.
The same effect also happens whenever solenoid used on a hydraulic valve is shut off. The voltage surge can reach several hundred volts which will arc across the switch contacts and quickly destroy them. Switch life can be reduced to one-tenth of normal.
The solution is to add a diode in parallel across the solenoid terminals (See Fig.1). A diode acts as a one-way valve for electricity. In normal operation, the electric current can't flow through the diode, so it flows through the solenoid coil. When the operator releases the switch, the current is shut off to the solenoid and the inductive kick flows backwards through the diode rather than through the switch contacts, bleeding off the high voltage spike.
Installation Tips
Diodes should be installed as close as possible to the solenoid. Soldering a diode directly across the 2 solenoid terminals is ideal.
Use a diode with a voltage rating of at least 10 times the circuit voltage and a current rating at least as big as the current flowing through the solenoid. In practice, diodes rates at 200 volts and 1 amp are readily available for a few cents and are appropriate for most applications.
Diodes have a strip on one end of the case. On equipment wired with negative grounds, the end with the stripe should be installed on the most positive side of the solenoid. (This is usually the side that has the wire from the switch.) (See Fig. 1)
Last edited by 8a8mfh; 01-10-2008 at 07:37 PM.
