M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
What about a m6 to a3 or 200-r4 swap? Thinking of doing this, I want something more consistent.Does anyone want to swap trannies? I would like to get something streetable as this car will see some regular driving too. But I would also like to leave the line wheels up when racing.
Has anyone gotten the reverse lockout working. I did a A4 to T56 swap in my 93 no problems and a friends 97 pretty easy really. TAKE the column out and loosen the brake booster up so you can swing it out of the way, saves time and skin.
Anyhoo thinking of doing the swap in the 98 but its the wifes daily driver would like to have a working reverse lockout. If the A4 goes bad I'll do it anyways and just disable the reverse lockout completely. In the 93 it was there but just force it into reverse a few times and it goes.....
Bobby
Anyhoo thinking of doing the swap in the 98 but its the wifes daily driver would like to have a working reverse lockout. If the A4 goes bad I'll do it anyways and just disable the reverse lockout completely. In the 93 it was there but just force it into reverse a few times and it goes.....
Bobby
BTW I may get flamed for this but if your going to an auto from a 6spd I'd do the T350 or T400, I went through a bunch of "race built" A4's in my 93 and will not go with it again for a DD its fine but once you start modding....
Its funny cause I can go into a tranny shop and tell you what they will say before they say it. THEY ALL are the best they ALL invented these parts and mods first etc. I don't like them, could have bought a new car with all the tranny\verter setups I had....
Its funny cause I can go into a tranny shop and tell you what they will say before they say it. THEY ALL are the best they ALL invented these parts and mods first etc. I don't like them, could have bought a new car with all the tranny\verter setups I had....
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.
also the master cylinder isnt a hard install either. i did both the pedals and the master cyl. in under an hour and this is before i have switched trannies or anything else. the tranny will be changed this weekend and ill try to get some good pics to do a real write up on all this 
Originally Posted by nitrousfed
fyi the steering column doesnt need to come out.. im guessing your taking it out to install the pedal assembly but you dont actually need to take it out. you can install the pedal assembly simply by pulling the clip off the gas pedal and taking it off for a sec then the whole assembly will slide in with a minute or so of clearing away the wires and turning the assembly clockwise around the steering shaft.. try it out. youll save yourself 10-20 minutes of unneeded remevals also the master cylinder isnt a hard install either. i did both the pedals and the master cyl. in under an hour and this is before i have switched trannies or anything else. the tranny will be changed this weekend and ill try to get some good pics to do a real write up on all this
also the master cylinder isnt a hard install either. i did both the pedals and the master cyl. in under an hour and this is before i have switched trannies or anything else. the tranny will be changed this weekend and ill try to get some good pics to do a real write up on all this LS1 Tech Stories
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Verdad Gallardo i guess either way you can do it but if its possible id do it without taking off things its just another way to run into something breaking or being a biatch to put back in.. but like i said it took me maybe 15 minutes to swap pedals and another half hour to 45 minutes to get the master cyl drilled and installed.. but hey whatever floats your boat. my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....
my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....
Originally Posted by nitrousfed
i guess either way you can do it but if its possible id do it without taking off things its just another way to run into something breaking or being a biatch to put back in.. but like i said it took me maybe 15 minutes to swap pedals and another half hour to 45 minutes to get the master cyl drilled and installed.. but hey whatever floats your boat. my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....
my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....BTW, are you going to do the drill mod? If you haven't already done it, you should while it's all out. It has major benefits.
Man I've done THREE of these and it is much easier to do with:
1. Talking the steering column out
2. Using locking nuts and bolts with the MC rather than the U bolt
3. Unbolting the brake booster and pushing it out of the way.
I've done it without doing these things and yes it can be done but the time you spend doing this is 1 fifth it takes working AROUND these things. If you can't take a steering column in and out then you shouldn't be doing the swap
So has anyone figured out the reverse lockout selinoid???
Bobby
1. Talking the steering column out
2. Using locking nuts and bolts with the MC rather than the U bolt
3. Unbolting the brake booster and pushing it out of the way.
I've done it without doing these things and yes it can be done but the time you spend doing this is 1 fifth it takes working AROUND these things. If you can't take a steering column in and out then you shouldn't be doing the swap
So has anyone figured out the reverse lockout selinoid???
Bobby
ok i take back the unhooking the steering column.. i took it out to finish up the wiring and removing the ignition lock.
i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :
"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."
i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?
i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :
"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."
i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?
Originally Posted by nitrousfed
ok i take back the unhooking the steering column.. i took it out to finish up the wiring and removing the ignition lock.
i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :
"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."
i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?
i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :
"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.
connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).
connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."
i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?
Well it was a success everything functions flawlessly.. except i think i need to rebleed my clutch since the pedal is feeling really weak...thanks for all the info and ill try to get some photos up soon...
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I am new to this forum and stumbled on exactly what I needed. I am building a 67 camaro with an LT1/4l60e from an impala ss. I want A T56 (which from what I have been led to believe is better than the ZF). I saw nothing about reprogramming the PCM, is it nessecary?
Originally Posted by linn_chris43
I am new to this forum and stumbled on exactly what I needed. I am building a 67 camaro with an LT1/4l60e from an impala ss. I want A T56 (which from what I have been led to believe is better than the ZF). I saw nothing about reprogramming the PCM, is it nessecary?
a right up on the pcm programing or the entire swap? there's a good right up already on the swap it's what I used when I did mine.... It even tells you what pin to tap on your pcm connector to hook up your reverse lockout. http://afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm
Originally Posted by wizardstar
a right up on the pcm programing or the entire swap? there's a good right up already on the swap it's what I used when I did mine.... It even tells you what pin to tap on your pcm connector to hook up your reverse lockout. http://afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm
Someone said I can use my A4 wiring harness for the M6? Does that mean I dont have to wire anything? I havent fully read the text in the link but I am about to. I see the mod where you can start the car w/o clutch in but I'd rather have that safety precaution so I wont be doing that.