Help with bleeding and the drill mod...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,128
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Help with bleeding and the drill mod... I am going to do the drill mod (though I really have no clue what's going on 
).
Do I have to remove the master?
Do I need to bleed it after I put the line back in the master, or can I just clean out the line I drilled out?
Do I need to bleed the slave? (I got an 01 slave)
Do I use a 1/8" bit or a 1/4" bit?
Does anyone want to come put my clutch in for me
).Do I have to remove the master?
Do I need to bleed it after I put the line back in the master, or can I just clean out the line I drilled out?
Do I need to bleed the slave? (I got an 01 slave)
Do I use a 1/8" bit or a 1/4" bit?
Does anyone want to come put my clutch in for me
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Chicago IL
Remove the master.
Drill the connector, and flush it well with brake fluid. Bench bleed the master out of the car.
Yes the slave will get air in it when you dsiconnect the quick connect fitting.
1/8" bit.
Buy yourself a mityvac and save a lot of time.
Drill the connector, and flush it well with brake fluid. Bench bleed the master out of the car.
Yes the slave will get air in it when you dsiconnect the quick connect fitting.
1/8" bit.
Buy yourself a mityvac and save a lot of time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by SapphireHawk
Yes the slave will get air in it when you dsiconnect the quick connect fitting.
I read they are pre-bled. Is that true?
You need to remove the roll pin on the master where the braided line goes in the master, then use the 1/8" bit and drill the end of the braided line u just removed.flush it out very,very good as u want no metal shavings left in the line reassemble ,bench bleed ,then install the master in the car and bleed the system again at the trans. 
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
About 2" abouve the quick connect fitting on the trans. Can't see it but you can feel it. It is a 7/16" fitting.
Didn't take long at all to bleed at the slave.
Honestly, the next time I do a clutch, i'm not going to waste my time with that stupid MityVac and bench bleed. Just get 2 other friends and do it all in the car. One pump the pedal, one loosen the bleeder, and one watch the resevoir.
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You really need to do both. It is a bitch to get all of the air out without bench bleeding. I just did this over the weekend and uses the Bushman(SP) method to bench bleed and then bled on the car. So far so good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
You really need to do both. It is a bitch to get all of the air out without bench bleeding. I just did this over the weekend and uses the Bushman(SP) method to bench bleed and then bled on the car. So far so good.
I just tossed the master back in the car, hooked it up, and went to work with my friends. We had it done in less than 15 minutes, the pedal feels great and engages where I want it. Maybe I got lucky - who knows. I just know what worked for me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by SSG--Z28
Good point, but you should at least spend some money on a case of bud or something! 
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: New Haven MI
Got the Spec II in on Saturday, found that damn bleeder screw too.. gonna use a Mityvac on it on Monday. Linin' up the input shaft was a bitch, especially by myself and with no floor jack! Damn tranny's heavy! Ended up holding the tranny in place, while a buddy jammed home the bolts. What I realized was the tensioner spring on the slave cylinder was "impeding" the smooth joining of tranny to bellhousing, but tightening the bolts down took care of that. Note to self: next time, drop that damn tensioner spring!!..Also, use lift and tranny jack; shoulder's are sooore today!! 
