Went racing this weekend in Wisconsin at Great Lakes Dragway. My friend BONESTOCK C5 (on here) has a 427, third pass of the day, 1.8 60 foot hits second gear and gone. Pulled car back to pits, removed inspection cover and we got a hampsters nest. This clutch was supposed to be the ticket to go with on larger power applications. All was installed correctly and was brand new during install. Clutch had 8000 miles on it, car is driven 90% street.

I was having problems with my car, second gear burnouts with the 305 nittos was causing so much heat build up in the fluid that at the end of the pass the clutch pedal would only return half way up. I have ZO6 clutck with modified slave for more fluid pressure. Clutch wouldn't slip but would get really warm. Went 11.99 at 120 which was fun.

So we are looking for recommendations for clutches that have worked well, and has this Mcleod failed for anyone else like this.

Thanks

 

I think you're probably one of the few! Who installed it???

Exedy has a twin disk setup out now. I think that one might be the ticket.

 

I read what you said about the slave cylinder pressure. Are you saying you did the drill mod to the slave? Please make me smile and say you did.

 

Could you possibly get us some pics of the damage? I just installed one, but haven't got the trans back in. It sure does look to be alot higher quality than spec and the rest.

 

Haven't even pulled the car off the trailer, i have tried several time to contact Mcleod about this problem, unable to get ahold of anyone. 3 of 4 clutch sufaces gone, Never was really impressed with driving with the clutch.
looking to go with the cartek clutch next. For the amount of money spent on the mcleod, not doing it again. cartek sounds very stongly about there setup. i know some venders on forum no longer sell mcleod due to problems with there products and lack of customer support! May have pictures later no time soon as of yet.

 

talked with mcleod tech finally, he states that the reason for failure was do to clutch temo, reson that attaches material to disc got to hot and released, find that hard to believe it would go so easily with dr's, waiting to talk to another mcleod rep tomorrow. they said they could rebuild it, thinking NOT, try another clutch instead. not to HAPPY

 

Hey Bone its caused by having to do a burnout going uphill.!!LOL. I've been out there a few times on my other vehicle that had 4 wheels and a track. Hope you get it straightend out. John

 

I find it hard to believe that the mcleod clutch can't take the abuse a stock Z06 clutch or ls1 clutch can handle, Justified was doing exact same burnouts with same tires 315-35-18 Nitto's. another friend of mine was running a 150shot on stock 1998 clutch with 60k on it, no problems with burnout. I guess for $1300.00 you'd expect a little more than that. all clutches are going to create heat when drag racing, that's were the mcleod street/strip twin is supposed to be soooo great. When building a clutch for abuse you think they'd think about heat being created, i was told the can hold over 1000hp, maybe on a dyno, not real life

 

hey bonestock do a serch on them clutches and you will find lot of ppl not happy with them. i am running a cartek set up now for a year and have over 13,000 miles on it now and it still dont skip a beat. sorry about your luck though that sucks man
Eddie

 

Had another talk with a different guy at Mcleod today. He claims I'm leaving at too low of an RPM. He said there should be 10% tire slip when leaving the line. Since I'm not leaving with enough RPM, I letting the tires hook causing the clutch to take all the "load". which means the clutch has to slip 10% and caused heat in the clutch. He said it doesn't matter where the 10% comes from but you're going to get a 10% slip in drive train either tires, clutch, or driveline?????. Although he did say he'd rebuild the clutch for me. possible $100.00 to reline clutch discs, if all the other parts are not damaged, will go threw the whole thing. going send it out in a few weeks, see what the damage is?. Not to sure about the whole 10% slip?????
I'll take pics when apart, hopefully sat.

 

Essentially what he is saying is that you can't slip the clutch at high power levels. If you are dragging, than you just need the drop the clutch, the higher rpm the better.

McLeod knows what they are doing- they build tons of clutches, even 4 disc setups for tractor pulls. If you use the clutch as they say, you should be fine.

Ben

 

I've got over 300 passes and 50K street miles on my mcleod single disk, maybe you got a bad one. I leave off the rev limiter on slicks now every pass.

Hope you get it straightened out.

 

intmd8 from speed inc has been running a mcleod street twin on hi 9 sec twin turbo lt1 for a long time and many dyno runs and he hasnt had a prob

 

I dont get that.. why would slipping hurt the clutch? Saying that the tires need to slip rather than the clutch seems like a pretty weak excuse to me.

Is it possible something else is going on that might cause it to slip during the burnout, like the to bearing putting pressure on the fingers?

BTW, how did you get a hold of mcleod's tech department? I've called them a dozen times, with no answer. What number are you calling?

Steve

 

Slipping the clutch generates heat. It is as simple, or as "weak" as that. Heat will kill the friction discs.

Call and ask to speak to the rebuild department (Gene). The tech line is impossible to get through to.

Ben